MTB repair ?

[nspctr1]

I bought a new Marin Hawk Hill in July of last year. Since then it's been in the shop at least 3 times to have the derailleur and other adjustments made due to shifting problems etc. I rode a little this weekend for the first time in a few weeks and everything seems to be moving along just fine but when I free wheel and then start pedaling again, something is not engaging. I can turn the crank about a half rotation and it will then catch and I can continue riding. The shop says it's the hub and it needs to be rebuilt at the tune of 45 bux. It's not alot of $ but I say it should be covered under warranty. The mechanic says that my hosing the bike down has washed the grease out of the hub causing the damage. I say BS...
What say mud?

 

[SeaDevil]

I bought a new Marin Hawk Hill in July of last year. Since then it's been in the shop at least 3 times to have the derailleur and other adjustments made due to shifting problems etc. I rode a little this weekend for the first time in a few weeks and everything seems to be moving along just fine but when I free wheel and then start pedaling again, something is not engaging. I can turn the crank about a half rotation and it will then catch and I can continue riding. The shop says it's the hub and it needs to be rebuilt at the tune of 45 bux. It's not alot of $ but I say it should be covered under warranty. The mechanic says that my hosing the bike down has washed the grease out of the hub causing the damage. I say BS...
What say mud?

When a bike is new, it has a break in period. The cables stretch causing the derailleurs to go out of adjustment, the brake pads burn in, bearings can come loose etc.
It sounds like the freehub body on the hub is shot. This can be caused improper cone adjustment, lack of grease or dirt and sand.
You should never hose your bike off because water can displace the grease (especially in loose ball bearing hubs), cause the bearings to rust and push dirt inside your hub.
The hubs on the hawk hill are no name hubs so they are probably made by either formula or joytech. If it was a Shimano hub it would have it's own separate warranty.
All that said, the components on most brands are usually covered by a one year warranty. That does not however cover wear and tear. This does not cover the labor performed by the shop.
Was the $45 just for labor or labor and parts? $45 is reasonable for labor and new bearings.
Ask the shop if you could apply that $45 to either a wheel or hub upgrade and get a more reliable hub. The worst they can say is no.
And trust me, a guy that has been in the business forever; if you come in with an attitude and are combative they are less likely to work with you.
All else fails call Marin direct and have them point you to another dealer who will take care of you and try to earn your business.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Not knowing what type of riding and how hard you ride that rig, makes it hard to gauge how good/bad the components on the bike are.....
However, you get what you pay for.....
No brand components wont last but a few good/hard rides...
If you are taking the bike to the shop 4 times now.. I would suggest what was already stated..go in with a positive attitude and see if you can put the whole bike towards a higher end bike..with brand components.. or upgrade your components, you would be much much happier.......
BTW if your derailleur is not working properly it might also be the derailleur hanger is out of wack.....

Also, you might want to wrench on your own ride...adjusting the derailleurs/brakes/chain is not that hard.
check out parktool for some "howto" and you'll save $$..
The only things I let the bike shop do for me is the wheels.. I hate truing/building a wheel..... and hydraulic brakes

 

[alsp143]

To replace a mountain bike chain, you’ll need a chain-tool. Some chain-tools have removable bits that are different sizes for different link-pins. Most mountain bike chains have the same link-pin size, so do not be concerned if your tool only has one bit. The Park Chain-tool is a good choice, as it has a large handle and two chain-placement channels.I knew it could be done to bike frames, but the ones I had seen looked unimpressive, and they were expensive.

 

[nspctr1]

Not knowing what type of riding and how hard you ride that rig, makes it hard to gauge how good/bad the components on the bike are.....
However, you get what you pay for.....
No brand components wont last but a few good/hard rides...
If you are taking the bike to the shop 4 times now.. I would suggest what was already stated..go in with a positive attitude and see if you can put the whole bike towards a higher end bike..with brand components.. or upgrade your components, you would be much much happier.......
BTW if your derailleur is not working properly it might also be the derailleur hanger is out of wack.....

Also, you might want to wrench on your own ride...adjusting the derailleurs/brakes/chain is not that hard.
check out parktool for some "howto" and you'll save $$..
The only things I let the bike shop do for me is the wheels.. I hate truing/building a wheel..... and hydraulic brakes

The bike is not high end by any means but retails about a grand. Point is. It has maybe 5-700 miles on it w not so hard riding and not in water until last wk. it does have shims no deore components on it tho. It just seems to me that if the hub is toast , it's a bit premature. My old bike was treated exactly the same w no problems at all and the bike does get regular mntnce

 

[nspctr1]

Dn iPhone. It has shimano deore components

 

[Fast Eddy]

I don't wash anything on any of my bikes except if I'm going to rebuild it in any case.

If you bought it in July, they should not be charging you to rebuild your hub. If they won't do it under warranty, let the shop manager know that you will be finding another shop.

I'm not too surprised that you would have problems with that level of hub if you're riding that much. If they rebuild it, get a written warranty on that work. Get it tuned up now too. If the hub in the back is going the bottom bracket or the front hub will be next. You probably want to properly lube the shifters and cables too.

 

[Jetboy]

Probably not deore hub, but who knows. You might have just gotten a bad freehub.

I wouldn't be happy with that explanation that I shouldn't wash my bike with water. Sounds like BS to me. Would someone really tell you not to get a MTB wet? Do they ever actually ride them in the mountains... like where there's rain, water, and mud?

Lots of rides I'm on end up submerging the hubs in water. I wash my bike with water all the time too. Never had an issue. Cartridge bearing wheels are pretty water proof. They wear out eventually, but I never think twice about it. My commuter gets a wash every couple weeks too. And I put about 100 miles a week on it riding to work and back. I've never serviced, nor have I ever done any work on the internals of the hub. Maybe I've just been lucky? It has cheap Vuelta wheels on it too.

Also, It's 2012, not 1850. There are plenty of waterproof lubricants for every application on a bicycle. Whether the manufacturer of your particular component decided to use them or not is hard to say.


Anyway you can probably take it apart and rebuild it pretty easily if it's not rusted up. They aren't complex machines. Just need the right tools and some light weight lube.

 

[alsp143]

There are some tips for repairing MTB-
1-Choose a site or a dedicated spot where you can do your maintenance and repairs.
2-Set up benches and shelves to store stuff and do some work on.
3-Get ready for tools by setting up a pegboard or other tool holder on the wall. Another good substitute is some MDF or particle board.
4-Make it yours by hanging your favorite mountain bike posters or whatever you want. A comfortable workshop is a used workshop - and that's the reason we are doing this right?

 

[Mr. Toad]

A Shimano Deore hub should not fail in a year. Complete BS if the shop won't warranty it.

And them telling you not to hose off your bike because water will wash away the grease ... Nonsense. Why would Park sell cleaning brushes if you're not supposed to wash the bike? You're not disassembling the hub and spraying it with water are you? Does he think dirt and grit encrusting your lubricant and seal areas is any better? That's preposterous.

Mine gets washed with the driveway hose whenever I ride thru mud, which has been all the time lately. I ride Shimano too, and I seriously doubt Shimano would make XTR "washable" and Deore not. However, I would stay away from high-pressure coin-op carwash-type sprayers though. They can overcome chemistry by sheer mechanical force, making water penetrate into lubed areas.

BTW, I bought the Park Tool Big Blue Book of bicycle repair for $20 on Amazon. It was worth the 20$ just for this (ex)roadie to finally learn how to set up a MTB front derailleur. Hint: do the STI adjustment on the middle ring. D'Oh! Edit -- just in time for mtbs to go to the road-like 2X10s. lol

 

[nspctr1]

I went by the shop today and the mech tore down the hub and lubed it. He said it was completely dry and again said it was due to washing the bike using the garden hose. I ended up paying twenty bux for the service and a warning to quit washing the bike with a hose, just use a damp rag. I'm gonna contact Marin and see if there is another shop I can begin taking the bike to.

 

[alsp143]

A Shimano Deore hub should not fail in a year. Complete BS if the shop won't warranty it.

And them telling you not to hose off your bike because water will wash away the grease ... Nonsense. Why would Park sell cleaning brushes if you're not supposed to wash the bike? You're not disassembling the hub and spraying it with water are you? Does he think dirt and grit encrusting your lubricant and seal areas is any better? That's preposterous.

Mine gets washed with the driveway hose whenever I ride thru mud, which has been all the time lately. I ride Shimano too, and I seriously doubt Shimano would make XTR "washable" and Deore not. However, I would stay away from high-pressure coin-op carwash-type sprayers though. They can overcome chemistry by sheer mechanical force, making water penetrate into lubed areas.

BTW, I bought the Park Tool Big Blue Book of bicycle repair for $20 on Amazon. It was worth the 20$ just for this (ex)roadie to finally learn how to set up a MTB front derailleur. Hint: do the STI adjustment on the middle ring. D'Oh! Edit -- just in time for mtbs to go to the road-like 2X10s. lol

I agree with you.Your information is very nice and informative.

 

[Scott Parsley]

When a bike is new, it has a break in period. The cables stretch causing the derailleurs to go out of adjustment, the brake pads burn in, bearings can come loose etc.
It sounds like the freehub body on the hub is shot. This can be caused improper cone adjustment, lack of grease or dirt and sand.
You should never hose your bike off because water can displace the grease (especially in loose ball bearing hubs), cause the bearings to rust and push dirt inside your hub.
The hubs on the hawk hill are no name hubs so they are probably made by either formula or joytech. If it was a Shimano hub it would have it's own separate warranty.
All that said, the components on most brands are usually covered by a one year warranty. That does not however cover wear and tear. This does not cover the labor performed by the shop.
Was the $45 just for labor or labor and parts? $45 is reasonable for labor and new bearings.
Ask the shop if you could apply that $45 to either a wheel or hub upgrade and get a more reliable hub. The worst they can say is no.
And trust me, a guy that has been in the business forever; if you come in with an attitude and are combative they are less likely to work with you.
All else fails call Marin direct and have them point you to another dealer who will take care of you and try to earn your business.

Exactly correct.

No one is saying not to wash your bike. Using Parks brushes has nothing to do with hosing your bike off which is a big no-no unless it's right after a super muddy ride and there is just no other way.

Brush off DRIED mud and wipe down with a rag using Simple Green or simillar product. Clean chain with degreaser and a rag. Use cardboard to clean in between the cogs on your cassette. Scrape crud from rear der. pullies with a small flathead. Wipe off seatpost and clamp. That's it. You can quickly get a bike very clean this way and you never used any water pressure.

I have seen bike after bike that was de-tuned more by the owners efforts to clean it than actual wear and tear from riding. Even the smallest amount of water pressure will push dirty water in and degrease most rear hubs and freehub bodies (and countless other parts). I have seen this happen over and over again. This is not comparable to muddy rain rides or even submersion. Again it's my opinion that you should avoid using any water pressure to clean a mountain bike unless it was one of "those" rides.

Just my .02

 

[Mr. Toad]

Look at these fools! They sure do make pro mechanics stupid these days.

Oh, and Lance is going to kick this guy's ass if he touches that hose. lol

 

[Scott Parsley]

No one is stupid for hosing off their bicycle. It's common sense to think that you would do so. It's my experience that is is largely unnecessary and potentially damaging. A pro road mechanic is going to know how to make sure the bike works perfectly after doing that. We are speaking to the original poster whom, with all do respect, can not determine what is causing his drivetrain problems. I'll also assume that the OP is not sponsored and filmed racing by TV cameras. Sponsors and cameramen like shiny clean bikes in the pits and in the peloton. He (the OP) should not be using a hose. Two different worlds. I've argued this topic with people for years and I don't expect it to be any different here on MUD(duh!). It's just my opinion.

 

[tag3]

Look at these fools! They sure do make pro mechanics stupid these days.

Oh, and Lance is going to kick this guy's ass if he touches that hose. lol

And throw away after 1 season.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I said it before and I'll say it again..
You get what you paid for....
Cant compare a $30 part/component to a $100+ part/component...
There is a reason why they are more expensive........
I hosed my rig plenty of times with out ill effect......
I have had to replace them after a year of good riding but not because of hosing it off with water...

BTW you in IH8MUD bicycling forum.......

 

[nspctr1]

I agree for the most part about price comparisons on parts but, I still say it shouldn't be problematic within 6 months of purchase no matter how you ride. unless it's through creeks and submerged all of the time then you risk debris intrusion but then again, as mentioned previously, I am not a bike mechanic.... just a rider...

 

[Scott Parsley]

D'oh! I'm such a tard. That's embarasing...I haven't been over there for ages. Not sure why I wrote that.

 

[edog's 80]

I agree for the most part about price comparisons on parts but, I still say it shouldn't be problematic within 6 months of purchase no matter how you ride. unless it's through creeks and submerged all of the time then you risk debris intrusion but then again, as mentioned previously, I am not a bike mechanic.... just a rider...

The same logic applies to the shop. For them to do right and hook you up with a new cheap hub is peanuts to them compared to the 4/5K bikes they sell. If they are a reputable shop they should take care of you and not give you any crap about washing your bike.

I wash my bikes all the time, granted, all the components are high end, but IMO dirt/mud sitting in all the crevices are worse for it than some clean water.