Hey guys. I went rock crawling this week at Anthracite Outdoor Adventure Area in PA this weekend, and had a ton of fun. I did notice that a lot of the (very) lifted jeeps had huge tires, sliders, etc., and had a much easier time with some of the blue trails than I did. In your opinion, what are the first mods I should do to rock crawl effectively? I have 285/75/16 Falken Wildpeak AT3ws on there and a bull bar, but no other mods. Is a lift possible with AHC and would that enable me to fit 35 inch tires instead of my current 33s? Sorry I am so new at this, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Most essential mods on LX470 for rock crawling blue trails (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Reconvened
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Sliders and search.
Yes, get good quality rock sliders, they will pay for themselves the very first time they save your truck from major body damage. You already have good 33" tires and AHC is a huge asset. Just put it in H mode and go through obstacles as slow as you can, as fast as you need to.
You did not mention what year your truck is. Model year 2000 and later got the Toyota A-TRAC system that helps transfer power to the wheel with most traction and is very useful on trails.
You did not mention what year your truck is. Model year 2000 and later got the Toyota A-TRAC system that helps transfer power to the wheel with most traction and is very useful on trails.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys. My LX470 is a 2001. I noticed that i was spinning a lot in the very muddy uphill conditions, even in 4LO and AHC High, as well as center differential locked.
Spinning a lot is the right thing to do in muddy conditions - it keeps your tires cleaner (mud is slung off) and A-Trac also requires some wheelspin before it engages. Short of buying Mud Terrain tires, you will always have some difficulty with the muddy pits. But then Mud Terrains are much louder on pavement so there is a trade off.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yes. And throw on a set of sliders, like everyone else suggested.
On the 100 series a lift doesn't necessarily translate to larger tires. The body of the vehicle (as well as A arms, washer reservoir, etc..) are in the way and lifting doesn't alleviate most that. It can all be overcome, but isn't quick and easy and for most folks, isn't a gamechanger in capability.
AHC in H should be plenty of lift. Armor up and learn how to use what you've got.
Jeeps are a tough (potentially useless) comparison. They are far lighter and can run HUGE tires with ease. They are built from the factory to accommodate crawling. A fully built 100 will have a tough time keeping up with even a stock wrangler. Don't get hung up on any of that.
Sliders, skids and bumpers. With that and AHC in H you can do quite a lot. Also learn how to use ATRAC to your advantage. Consistent pedal is important. Keep the gas steady and it'll start to get you up.
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- #9
Thanks man, excellent advice. Do you think 35s would be worth doing with what I’m assuming is a lot of trimming?
I say no, not worth it. Stick to ~33" tires and you avoid any and all mods needed. Not to mention cheaper (more money for armor). It's also less wear and tear on the drivetrain components which is nice. Genuine CVs are expensive as hell. 33" tires aren't enough to decrease longevity that much, but I think 35's are enough to start you down the path of diminishing returns. The trails you can do with 33's and 35's are nearly identical. Tire size is helpful, but it's just one part of a big equation.
My ~33.4" tires:
I agree with @suprarx7nut, if running harder trails, traversing deep mud pools or crawling large rock gardens is a priority, you will be unhappy with a 100 series in the long run. They are big, heavy and expensive to modify and will always be inferior to a Wrangler when it comes to the serious off roading stuff.
These trucks are great for driving hours and hours in comfort to get to medium level trails, play on those trails whole day and drive back in comfort. Or go for camping trips to places no easily accessible otherwise. Serious wheeling is not one of their strong suites.
These trucks are great for driving hours and hours in comfort to get to medium level trails, play on those trails whole day and drive back in comfort. Or go for camping trips to places no easily accessible otherwise. Serious wheeling is not one of their strong suites.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Very minimal trimming required to fit 35s, depending on the tire width and wheel backspacing/offset. Getting some taller bumpstops generally negates the need to do any extensive trimming…but you lose uptravel.
But I agree with @suprarx7nut that moving from 33s to 35s provides nominal benefit/return for the cost/time/money. Moving from 33s to 37s would be worth it tho!
Just my 2 cents, never been to the place you're talking about but if you are getting into some big rocks etc, the 100 can be a great crawler, just needs the right mods IMO...
3/16th's full skids, they pay for themselves fast
Sliders, wide with a good kickout
lockers front and rear
35's
4.88's
Low TCase gear reduction
High clearance metal bumpers
Stronger rear lower control arms
etc...
3/16th's full skids, they pay for themselves fast
Sliders, wide with a good kickout
lockers front and rear
35's
4.88's
Low TCase gear reduction
High clearance metal bumpers
Stronger rear lower control arms
etc...
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- Thread starter
- #14
Do you have a recommended brand to order/instal sliders, skid plates, etc from?
Dissent and Slee are my picks.
The Slee skids are solid, I have been laying an absolute beating on these things and they are holding up...
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Do you run their aluminum or steel ones?
Steel
Armoring up is an obviously wise choice. I would really encourage people to strongly consider going for the best approach/departure angles possible (if crawling is a goal), this is going to help you get away with a ton while still on 33” tires. The high clearance dissent front bumper is definitely a difference maker.
My favorite mod so far was the T-case reduction gears, especially while on the rocks. It allows for a lot more precision. “Send it” is NOT your friend while wheeling the 100, and will not be your friend when it comes to longevity of critical parts. Finesse will get you so much further with this platform. The 100 is a lot of weight to be throwing around, even if it’s more durable than most.
Im always tempted to move up to 35s, but these small 33s (285/75/16) have cruised through every “hard” trail from the Mid-Atlantic region to Moab and Colorado.
For rocks would one consider the trail tailor creeper skid or the slee intermediate/belly skid?
