more troubles

[TOME]

I got my cruiser home today (drove 200 miles from central to north texas, at 70-80 mph), and i check the oil level. to my surprise i was almost out. i put a quart of oil in and went on my way with the general check to make sure all is well. i crawl under the truck and notice what looks like a oil SPRAY, not leak but i found oil on the rear leaf springs. I quickly got it to my local oil change placeto get their opinion and the guy said it was most likely a rear main leak (after noting what a beast the cruiser was ). I ran it down to my local auto shop to get their opinion on it. srry, but no pics. If it is a rear main leak, it is most likely going to run me $500-600 to replace . The guy said that if it is a rear main leak tho, I can just keep adding oil and buy it by the gallon. What does MUD recommend if it is the rear main? replace or let it leak?

 

[jessewmcgregor]

mine drips a bit but i never need to add oil between changes. if you are losing enough that you could be running low or dry for that matter i say replace. long un will be alot cheape than a new engine. jost my .02

 

[TOME]

ok that sounds like what i may do. but it also ran much longer/hotter/faster than i usually run it today... and 2 tanks of gas.... so i am considering it...

 

[Dirtgypsy]

replace it as soon as possible. if you are losing enough oil in a 200 mile drive to have it not register on the dip stick then you will be broke and have a 4K motor job on your hands.

btw replace the clutch while you are in there.

how far are you from aintscared? he might be able to help.

clint

 

[TOME]

i dont know how far i am from iaintscared... i will find out.

It wass 200 therre and 200 back, 400 total. it registered, but as low enough that i didnt want to drive it until i got more oil in it.

 

[Tinker]

The typical 2F oil pan will look like a rear main leak to the inexperienced. Tighten your pan bolts 1st.

Don't worry about running too low on oil - you've still got at least 3 qt in it when you can't see it on the dipstick. Remember, these things are made for the outback & to be worked on by aborigines.

 

[TOME]

i am praying to the god of land cruisers that it is just loose bolts on the oil pan.

 

[Texx]

You'll soak the clutch and It'll be toast if you don't do it and damned soon. Hell, I'd do the clutch anyway, it's bound to have oil on it.

 

[TOME]

ok. the leak just started and i am still not sure whether it is the rear main or something else.

 

[klinetime574]

My oil pan bolts were finger loose when I started my rebuild.

So check em

 

[AGreekBoy]

clean the under carriage good including the oil pan tranny and transfer. it could be your transfer case leaking as well. then you can have a better idea of where the oil is coming from.

 

[RockDoc]

Make sure the lead isn't on the passenger side of the head around the plugs for 5 and 6. If it is, you've got a repair to make to ensure your engine stays alive.
If it is coming from the rear main area, I would be inclined to change the oil pan gasket first, as they commonly develop a leak at the back..... more often than the rear main for sure.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Did you lose half your oil in a couple hundred miles? If so you need to fix this.

If it is your rear main a new OEM rear main will cost you about $50. Call the guy in my sig line - great parts guy and gives a discount to MUD members. If your oil pan is leaking pick up a OEM pan gasket (cork, one piece) and also check your side cover. Mine was leaking badly - bolts finger tight - get a OEM side cover gasket too - cork, one piece, pretty cheap IIRC.

Get a clutch too as people suggest - there are some decent aftermarket sources - do a search.

Buy some beer.

1) invite some help over
2) distribute beer, but not too much
3) remove rear drive shaft, drain tranny and t-case, drop tranny and t-case, pull old clutch, inspect flywheel - if it looks bad get it machined
4) drop oil pan
5) carefully slide in new rear main - sometimes it is good to have two of these incase you mess up the first one
6) install new oil pan gasket - POSER has a great thread on how to do this - search
7) install new side pan gasket
8) install new clutch
9) reinstall tranny and t-case
10) drink rest of beer, buy dinner for everyone

Did I miss anything?

If you have some help over (say 2 guys) you can probably do this in a day.

 

[lehiguy]

It's not uncommon to get holes in the oil pan under the skid plate. The dirt and moisture that gets trapped there will eventually rust them right through. I had a hole in mine, a friend had a hole in his. Your 2F holds two gallons of oil, so losing some, even to the point of not showing on the dip stick, isn't really going to hurt you. Do check that plug on the cylinder head, passenger side between cylinders five and six. That has caused the death of many a 2F. Toyota hammered in an aluminum plug which doesn't always stay put. It needs to be removed and the hole tapped and a plug threaded in.

 

[TOME]

I know that it is not the plug between 5 & 6, i have been checking that regularly., and i might get one threaded in.

thanks for all the advice, like i said it is getting checked out at a car shop while it is on the rack for an adjustment check, I will know the diagnosis in a day or two.

 

[TOME]

dang

It definately is the rear main . The auto shop said im looking at $736 in labor only, but when i asked what he would do he said treat it like his old truck and just out oil in it and know that it will come out off the bottom. So what do you recommend? I currently do not have the funds to repair, so I will be putting gas in it for quite a while.

May do it with a friend. Any suggestions if i follow that route?

 

[BG_TX]

It's depends on your plans/use for the wagon?

• If the plan is to have fun with it while it lasts, mudding, mods, engine swap, etc then who cares and drive it till you kill it then drop a new heart in, rinse and repeat.
• If the plan is to restore it then invest the time and money (your mechanic skills will dictate which you invest more in).

I imagine by the time I get mine the way I want, it will be considered 'vintage' and the word 'restored' won't sound so ridiculous.

Welcome to the crossroads...

 

[TOME]

It's depends on your plans/use for the wagon?

• If the plan is to have fun with it while it lasts, mudding, mods, engine swap, etc then who cares and drive it till you kill it then drop a new heart in, rinse and repeat.
• If the plan is to restore it then invest the time and money (your mechanic skills will dictate which you invest more in).

I imagine by the time I get mine the way I want, it will be considered 'vintage' and the word 'restored' won't sound so ridiculous.

Welcome to the crossroads...

if only there were a middle road...

I am wanting to keep this thing true to its nature, no engine swap or any heavy mods. But i also wanna go and have a little fun with it while stock.

Either way, i will be driving an oil leaker until the spring when i can afford to have the work done.

 

[Texx]

I predict not. You'll ruin the clutch before then. I certainly understand not having the funds, but if you can't afford the fix or find someone to help you with it, things are going to go downhill in a hurry. I'd consider a second job, seriously, or selling the vehicle while it still drives.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I wouldn't put it off since their is the possibility of doing more damage. Another question that comes to mind is how much did you pay for it? If you got it for really cheap, I might do a compression test on the engine and check some other things before putting a lot of time and money into it. I would do it yourself instead of a shop but get some help from a friend when you pull the transmission and transfer case. You can pull them as one unit.