More than a jack needed...

[madinal]

...to change a tire or fix a flat.

Here's what I carry for tire problems:
Hi lift Jack
12x12 diamond plate (x2) for base
Jack stand
Ratchet strap to hold axle to frame to reduce lift req'ts
21mm deep well socket, 6" extension and 1/2 inch breaker bar
Tire patch kit (rasp, patch holder, string and round patches and glue)
Valve stems (x2)
Lug nuts (X2)
and, of course, a spare.

When off road, I have a shovel to level the ground for the base plates.

Since my visit to South Australia, I've been considering getting a Tyre Pliers and tire spoons to break tire beads and being able to patch more than just a puncture, from the inside.

 

[77cruiser77]

Perhaps you should throw a regular, even the the oem screw jack into the equation. A hi-lift to change a tire is scary and if cannot be avoided then you should put logs or something of the sort under the frame

 

[Layonnn]

...to change a tire or fix a flat.

Here's what I carry for tire problems:
Hi lift Jack
Jack stand

Perhaps you should throw a regular, even the the oem screw jack into the equation. A hi-lift to change a tire is scary and if cannot be avoided then you should put logs or something of the sort under the frame

I'd guess that is why he included jack stand in his list

 

[madinal]

Yes, I'm aware of the dangers of a hi-lift and Layonnn is half right. The other half is the ratchet strap so I don't have to lif the frame to the extended height of the suspension. By using the ratchet strap and holding the axle close to the frame I don't have to lift as high.

 

[77cruiser77]

whoops my bad on jack stands. did not see that

 

[rusty_tlc]

I recently dismounted and re mounted a 36" Swampers in my garage, actually two.

I used tools I already had in my truck.

• Hi-Lift
• Large Crow bar
• Spud bar (looks like a spud wrench with a pry bar where the wrench would be)
• Ratchet strap

The Hi-Lift was used to break the bead, foot on the tire and lift part on the bumper.
The flat end of the Crow bar to get the tire started over the rim.
The Spud was stuck into one of the lug hole as a lever for the crow bar which was worked around the rim. I didn't fully remove the tire from the rim, just one side, far enough to do an inside patch. I'm pretty sure the other side would have yielded to the same procedure.

After I was done with my project (adding air soft beads) I used the crow bar and the flat part of the spud bar to work the tire bead back on.

Then I ran a ratchet strap around the tread and sucked it tight, a little air and POP! the bead re-seated.


EDIT: I'm really glad I did this at home, nothing beats knowing you can do a thing instead of just reading about it.

 

[JEH97LX]

I saw the comments on fixing a trail side tire repair. A forum I frequent has a fantastic how-to post with pics at:

Trail Tire Repair - Alaska 4x4 Network

The ratchet strap Rusty suggested is a much better method, imo, than the uh starter fluid method hinted at in the post. If you're dying to try it, check out this other post to see why not:

Burned about half my hair off today - Alaska 4x4 Network

 

[NLXTACY]

I have most of what is described here but I also have a few items that have saved my bacon or just saved time/energy. Extreme Outback has pretty much everything you need ans specialize in trail repairing tires.

Beadbuster

Ultimate Punch Repair Kit

Tire Iron/Pliers

Tire Spoon/Iron