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wingysataday

wingysataday

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
May 16, 2005
Threads
57
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789
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Boise
I went wheeling with some people and notice my low amount of HP is an issue. I was locked in four low up against a hill and my clutch almost burnt in half because the truck did not have enough power to go. I don't understand how you guys run these 38" tires with a stock freaking motor. I run 33's and my s*** needs to have a way lower 4low. Is there a way to lower just the 4low? Whats the secret?
 
A problem that I have is that my clutch engages too far out in the range of the pedal movement. I had that same problem this weekend, and I had to let my clutch cool down.

:beer:
 
second tcase ;)

The way a stock clutch works is increased speed increases the clamping power. So if you are trying to start off and you do not have the proper gearing you are in essence starting out in the wrong gear.


put it in 3rd and try to pull from a traffic light.
 
I thought any 2F with 33" and low have enought power to move proper the tires in off road department.
 
What gears are you running? You need 4.10s to compensate for the increased tire diameter.

GLTHFJ60 -
You have a little adjustment on the clutch pedal travel, but the slave cylinder adjusts by itself. Just having it engage near the top is not the sign of a worn clutch. Free play should be 15-30mm (.59-1.18").
 
Right, but what I've been told is that when it engages that high, the clutch never fully engages, therefore wearing the clutch too fast. I was also told that there is an adjustment for it on the linkage on the bellhousing.

:beer:
 
About how many inches of engagement play do you have? What I mean, is how many inches is there between when your clutch engages the flywheel and when the pressure is off the pedal? For me, it's about 3-4", I think.

:beer:
 
GLTH -
Measure the distance from the pedal at rest (foot off, all the way up) to where you start to feel resistance. If it's 3-4", the clutch is engaging WAY too early.

And by the way, the proper spelling is "forward".
 
Last edited:
Sorry. I didn't sleep last night.

I meant measuring from when the clutch is as far in as it goes, letting it out slowly and taking the measurement from where the friction plate starts to make contact with the flywheel, as in just before the rpm's drop, to the position that the pedal sits without your foot on it.

Backwards from what you interpreted Tinker. My uncle said that it engages way too close to the top of the range of pedal movement.

:beer:
 
No matter what, when you have your foot off the pedal the clutch is "engaged"

adjustment on the slave shoudl be a threaded portion at the tip of the pushrod.
 
When I took the fj60 to the a/c shop the guy told me my clutch was letting out all the way at the top. He said there should be an adjustment on the bellhousing, but there isn't that I can tell. How do you compensate for this on the pushrod? Or do can you.

Also after an hour of highway driving I can come to a stop and then take off as usual but the clutch slips or shutters sometimes. Do i need a new clutch with 60000 miles on it or can i adjust that? Thanks y'all
 
is your rear main seal leaking a tad??
 
chitown40 said:
I was told that too, but never found it. Nothing on the bellhousing was able to be adjusted. I ended up cutting down the slave rod and although my clutch lets out near the top, it still engages fully.
Click to expand...

The adjustment option ended in '83 or '84. Mine has it...you might be able to order a new slave cyl. for an '83 or below, and it will have an adjustable arm (the one I ordered from Liquid Offroad does, at least - and it's OEM). The newer models have an auto adjustment function, I suppose it works with the movement of the piston somehow.
 
Or.... get a piece of allthread and two nuts and make your own adjuster ;)
 
My HJ61 has the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. There is no adjustment. If that is how your clutch is set up then I'd say there is a problem with either your hydraulics, the clutch, or a pressure plate that has no tension.

I would think that your hydraulics would be ok as the clutch is disengaging as soon as you touch the pedal, but just check to see if the slave cylinder pushrod is returning back into its resting position.
I would think that if you had no hydraulic pressure then the clutch wouldn't disengage until the pedal was near to the floor.

That leaves clutch plate and pressure plate. Pressure plates can, and do fail. Another thing to consider is if the pressure plate bolts were correctly torqued up (if the clutch had been worked on earlier). Then there's the question of oil on the clutch plate. Unfortunately most answers rely on physically looking at the clutch/pressure plate!
 
GLTH -
Has your uncle read the FSM? The specs are measured from the pedal at rest at the top of its travel with spring attached. No factory spec exists for your method of measuring. Various non-LC "mechanic" types will say all sorts of things, not to diss your unc. But they're usually inexperienced in these vehicles.

Once you've adjusted per FSM & verified proper operation of all components, you're obviously free to adjust or modify the linkage to your liking. You might even find out why the spec is the way it is.
 
Yeah, I haven't bought all the components of the FSM yet because of a lack of money, but I'm getting there.

:beer:
 
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