More Dissent Rear Bumper Questions

[CharlieS]

Hi all,

Thanks for your patience with my endless questions. More Dissent rear bumper questions:

• What is the recommended gap for the stock bumper cut? I have it trimmed flush, but need to make sure I have enough gap that differential body/frame movement don't break things.
• Can you share details of how you wired the add on license plate lights? I want to make it so I can easily unplug the lights at the swing arm in case I want to remove it.
• Can you share a picture of wire routing for the license plate light in the swing arm pivot area?
• Where on earth does the high lift jack mount? I can't wrap my head around it. Any pictures? I don't actually own a high lift jack, but I am thinking about getting one (and yes, before anyone says I shouldn't, I have actually been trained to use one in recovery courses by a I4WDTA instructor)
• Anyone have a picture of where they trimmed their passenger side rear wheel well liner to fit the bumper shell? Yes, I can figure it out, but a picture would be awesome.
• Anyone have a picture of how you trimmed the plastic bumper shells near the lower tailgate - the Dissent has a sort of "s" shaped curve, and I don't know how to make it look professional.

Thanks!

 

[TLC2013]

I can help out with the hi-lift jack mount. It goes on the tire carrier swing out. These pictures show it located behind the shovel and quick fists.

 

[CharlieS]

I can help out with the hi-lift jack mount. It goes on the tire carrier swing out. These pictures show it located behind the shovel and quick fists.

View attachment 3027793

View attachment 3027794

Awesome! I must've spent an hour trying to figure out where it might mount. Thanks!!!

 

[tbisaacs]

I tapped the tail light wire on the trailer harness for my license plate light. Just snaked it inside the swing arm and around the mount point. There is a hole in behind it and ran it under wing.

I left maybe 1/2" gap on my bumper cut. I made probably 3 cuts - 1 super rough, and then one close. Once I got close I used a pair of dial calipers to scribe a cut line on the bumper skin and then made my final cut.

FYI the high-lift mount is side specific. So if you decide to move your tire to the other side you need a new mount. I have both thanks to generosity of Cole @ Dissent. I changed my mind at the last minute. I've also mounted some jam nuts on mine to make it easier to remove the hi-lift.

 

[CharlieS]

Thank you!

 

[brasskey]

Just curious here, not trying to bash anyone. Is this stuff not addressed in Dissent’s install documents? Or, do they not have good/quick tech support? I see all lot of questions here on their bumper installs. I installed a Slee rear bumper on my previous 2016 and the docs were great and they were always there to help over the phone.

 

[CharlieS]

Dissent's current install documentation was written by a mud member, and he did a great job.

Despite that, there is a lot of space between the information provided and what needs to be done for a complete install. There are also differences in how the bumper is installed in the instructions and the current version of the bumper (no need to drill and tap the frame crossmember, no need to tap other 1/4-20 mounting holes).

While it is a helpful guide, it doesn't cover all of the details, and leaves a lot to figure out. It doesn't go into the license plate bracket, wiring the light, assembling the jerry can holder, and a few other things like that (hi lift jack bracket, for example).

Dissent is a small company, and answers emails, but aren't as helpful as asking other people here that have done their own installations.

In my personal opinion this is exactly the kind of thing this community should be discussing in a tech forum...

 

[SF1911A1]

As far as trimming the bumper, from just eyeballing it it looks like the sides of the bumper end up being cut off from the middle and they are not connected to each other at all after it’s all said and done. Is that right? I haven’t looked at the install instructions yet…. Can someone post a link to the best instructions? I’m looking over all the dissent threads now in preparation.

 

[CharlieS]

As far as trimming the bumper, from just eyeballing it it looks like the sides of the bumper end up being cut off from the middle and they are not connected to each other at all after it’s all said and done. Is that right? I haven’t looked at the install instructions yet…. Can someone post a link to the best instructions? I’m looking over all the dissent threads now in preparation.

Yes, you end up discarding the middle section and bottom of the stock rear bumper. There are instructions posted here and on the Dissent website. You basically measure down from the horizontal line where the trim attaches for making a rough cut, then go back after measuring for the final cut. An oscillating saw works well for this.

 

[radman]

As far as trimming the bumper, from just eyeballing it it looks like the sides of the bumper end up being cut off from the middle and they are not connected to each other at all after it’s all said and done. Is that right? I haven’t looked at the install instructions yet…. Can someone post a link to the best instructions? I’m looking over all the dissent threads now in preparation.

Just come over with some beers

 

[SF1911A1]

Just come over with some beers

I didn’t even realize you were in Houston, pm inbound.

 

[Trukk]

Here is what I ended up doing with my 200 Bumper Tray Swing-Out. I appreciate the feedback from folks, as I figured out what I wanted.

Parts List:

• Aluminum Accessory Tray Swing-Out; Dissent; $750; Aluminum Accessory Tray Swing-Out - https://dissentoffroad.com/collections/swing-outs/products/aluminum-accessory-tray-swing-out
• AluBox 60L Aluminum Case [EXT: 23"Lx15"Wx13"T / INT: 21.5"Lx13.5"Wx12.5"T]; AluBox/Equipt; $310 +$45 shipping; Aluminum Cases (Multiple Sizes) - https://www.equipt1.com/products/aluminum-case NOTE 1: 2 other cases have same width/lenght: ABA42L [9.5" T]; ABA73L [15.75" T]. NOTE2: not a prefect fit for the shelf, but close. See pictures. Note3: this is a case NOT a cooler.
• Polar Bear Coolers 48 Pack Original Soft Cooler [21"Lx13"Wx13"T], Amazon/Polarbear; $110; Amazon product ASIN B001PCNXFG . Wanted something I could pull in and out easy, and this seemed to fit the bill
• Kanulock Lockable Reinforced Stainless Steel Tie Down Straps 8 Foot; KanuLock/Amazon; $80 ; Amazon product ASIN B0094BFGG4 . Nothing is going to stop a thief, this is just meant to slow them down, and keep people honest. Steel cable and rudimentary lock means more than scissors/box cutter is needed to remove. Based on how I wrapped them 8 foot length was just about perfect.
• Master Lock 140QLH Solid Lock, 4 Pack, Brass, Silver, 4 Padlock, Extra Long Shackle;$30; Master/Amazon; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EUJHGY . Needed at least 1 3/4 (ish) shackle length to fit the AluBox latches. Went brass because it's outside. Went master because the price was right, again this is more "slow someone down", and not Fort Knox this thing. Lastly went 4 pack Keyed the same, so I only need one key; the AluBox takes 2 locks; now I have 2 extra if I need to lock anything else on the truck, I only need one key.
• Misc Marine Grease for the locks; $10; to help keep the locks from seizing up (master and kanu)
  

Overall, $1,335. That's a lot to pay to have a small lockable "cooler" on the back of the truck. I felt like I needed something on that side. TBH, unsure if I should have just went with the Jerry Can Basket; unsure what size that is and if it would fit the 60L Alubox or not.

Lastly, just threw this on, still need to use it / test it out.

Here's some pics. Sorry about the filthy truck.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I worry about those locks on two fronts:

1. The lock openings will gum up with dirt in no time. Failing that, water will get in and freeze in the winter. If you don't cover the lock openings, you'll soon start having issues with the key not fitting/turning. //edit: read closer, I guess the grease is supposed to minimize this problem //
2. Seems to me that a pair of pliers will make it absolutely trivial to bend down the metal tab on which the latch "hooks", rendering the whole lock useless.

 

[Trukk]

I worry about those locks on two fronts:

1. The lock openings will gum up with dirt in no time. Failing that, water will get in and freeze in the winter. If you don't cover the lock openings, you'll soon start having issues with the key not fitting/turning.
2. Seems to me that a pair of pliers will make it absolutely trivial to bend down the metal tab on which the latch "hooks", rendering the whole lock useless.

I hear ya. Again, more to deter a quick slash and grab. The strap lock does have a metal flap that closes to help seal out the weather and gunk. Since I don't plan to open them often I slathered them in marine grease. I'll let ya'll know how it goes. I definitely live in the land of ice, snow and dust so it will get a workout for sure.

 

[Artie]

I have some small master locks to secure my jerry cans that are on the rear of my Conqueror camper, I use electrical tape to cover the bottom and this has kept dirt and crap out for 3 years now.

 

[rlynch356]

on the locks - I would use some big heat shrink to wrap the bodies to prevent them from hammering the Alubox.. or at least to make it quite-er

 

[Trukk]

on the locks - I would use some big heat shrink to wrap the bodies to prevent them from hammering the Alubox.. or at least to make it quite-er

So far, due to the locks being off the base of the shelf by about 1"due to the way the shelf is designed, no noise. I'm taking an 8 hour out and back trip tomorrow, so I'll have a better idea if it's making noise at more significant highway speeds. So far so good.