i got all the bolts off except for the mfin spring pins......right now i have the hi lift jack under there pushing them apart so i can at least get som oil in there...so do you guys have any ideas....thanks -al
MoFu spring pins (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lowtideride
- Start date
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I have needed to heat the pin or shackles up with a torch, while others come right out by hand..
Highlift is a good idea, I have stalled out a 20 ton porta-power on them before..
Soak them down with spray lube, if you do not plan to use heat, otherwise if you soak them down, and apply heat, you will have a nice firery mess...
Good luck!
Highlift is a good idea, I have stalled out a 20 ton porta-power on them before..
Soak them down with spray lube, if you do not plan to use heat, otherwise if you soak them down, and apply heat, you will have a nice firery mess...
Good luck!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Heat is the trick for those old rubber bushings. I used Mapp gas, heated the pins until the rubber started to smoke, and the pins slid right out. Prior to that I was beating on them with a sledge with no movement. Keep an extinguisher next to you. Also that pin stays hot a long time 
- Thread starter
- #4
my bro has the torch so ill lay underneath it with a lighter and thick glove til it glows red hot and pull it out im sure the ones from 7-11 will do it..ya know the extra tall ones
A fire extinguisher will probably knock down the flame, but will do nothing to remove the heat, which is what is causing things to melt, burn and consequently move..
I try to keep a hose near buy...the water does a lot better job of removing the heat..
Just my opinon...
I try to keep a hose near buy...the water does a lot better job of removing the heat..
Just my opinon...
[quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=7217;start=msg60034#msg60034 date=1068168071]
my bro has the torch so ill lay underneath it with a lighter and thick glove til it glows red hot and pull it out im sure the ones from 7-11 will do it..ya know the extra tall ones
[/quote]
Are you trying to make a career out of this?
my bro has the torch so ill lay underneath it with a lighter and thick glove til it glows red hot and pull it out im sure the ones from 7-11 will do it..ya know the extra tall ones
[/quote]
Are you trying to make a career out of this?
- Thread starter
- #7
working on spring pins? no ive just been working on them for the past two hours...
- Thread starter
- #8
anyway thanks for the help everyone..ill try out the torch tomorrow
thanks agian --al
thanks agian --al
The torch will work, get the bushings smoking hot, the pins will slide right out in a couple of minutes and please check for fuel lines nearby. Good luck.
Hmm mine slid right out by hand. I guess that could have been from the fact that there were no bushings left in.
[quote author=lowtideride link=board=1;threadid=7217;start=msg60050#msg60050 date=1068169376]
ill try out the torch tomorrow
[/quote]
Torch is the only way to go. Everything else is a waste of time for the stuck ones. Alternate heating both ends of the pin until the smoke starts to flame on, then she's ready to slide out like a rubber boot out of the Vermont mud. Also, the pins hold that heat a long time (don't ask how I know), move it somewhere safe so you don't forget and kneel or sit on it while starting the next bit.
Bill
ill try out the torch tomorrow
[/quote]
Torch is the only way to go. Everything else is a waste of time for the stuck ones. Alternate heating both ends of the pin until the smoke starts to flame on, then she's ready to slide out like a rubber boot out of the Vermont mud. Also, the pins hold that heat a long time (don't ask how I know), move it somewhere safe so you don't forget and kneel or sit on it while starting the next bit.
Bill
- Thread starter
- #12
I FLIPIN GOT EM OUT...since they were already covered in oil i dint want to torch em off , so all it took was a hi lift jack, climbing gear, and a tow rope, they were out in under 10 mins,,,wicked
For interests sake, I came up with a good way to clean out the frame bushing holes. Mine were so rusted that the new bushings didn't go in.
I took some 120 grit adhesive backed sandpaper (6"round and used in body shops for D/A's) and wrapped it around a socket that was just smaller than the hole. I then put the socket in my DeWalt cordless and went to town!!!!
worked like a charm.
Thought maybe it would help someone.....
I took some 120 grit adhesive backed sandpaper (6"round and used in body shops for D/A's) and wrapped it around a socket that was just smaller than the hole. I then put the socket in my DeWalt cordless and went to town!!!!
worked like a charm.
Thought maybe it would help someone.....
- Thread starter
- #14
i just used a big ass drill bit and ran it around it it nocked everything loose..it worked..but your way seems better ,ill have to give it a try when i get to the back of the rig...al
my suggestions and what has worked for me,
pickle fork little wd , longest one to take out was 10 min, and it was bent.
BFH just cause it helps.
use a old brake hone with coarse to no stone left to knock that crap out of the eyes.
Change everything to 5/8 grade 8 bolts and run it, could do greasable if needed. Never have metal POS sleeves period, not sure on the 60? easy to dissassemble again if ever need, just slap an impact on the bolt heads.
pickle fork little wd , longest one to take out was 10 min, and it was bent.
BFH just cause it helps.
use a old brake hone with coarse to no stone left to knock that crap out of the eyes.
Change everything to 5/8 grade 8 bolts and run it, could do greasable if needed. Never have metal POS sleeves period, not sure on the 60? easy to dissassemble again if ever need, just slap an impact on the bolt heads.
I completely destroyed one of mine trying to beat it out with a hammer with very poor results. That and trying to burn up the bushings with a torch,... good for smoking up the garage, but little else.
I ended up changing my modus operandi, and got hold of the flange on the outer side with a pipe wrench, worked it back and forth, until it came out just enough to get a crow bar behind it, then pried, and out she came (I might have had to use a 2x4 as a wedge between the crow bar and the frame, as the pin came farther out, but it has been a year or so since I did it.). Worked better each additional pin I came to.
Bottom line, leave your hammer and torch on the bench for this one.
I ended up changing my modus operandi, and got hold of the flange on the outer side with a pipe wrench, worked it back and forth, until it came out just enough to get a crow bar behind it, then pried, and out she came (I might have had to use a 2x4 as a wedge between the crow bar and the frame, as the pin came farther out, but it has been a year or so since I did it.). Worked better each additional pin I came to.
Bottom line, leave your hammer and torch on the bench for this one.
- Thread starter
- #17
yeah, i used a can of bondo to hold the hi lift jack up to the frame as close to the pin as possible and put a thin tow strap around the end of the pin, d cliped it to the hi lift ( you could tie it but i was trying to cut down on tow strap stretch) and jacked the pin right out..worked like a charm ..no hitting, no starting fires under the rig... they were out in under 10 mins... good luck if ya try it... al
