Modified radiator mounts (1 Viewer)

[toyotaspeed90]

So in another thread I learned of the Champion radiators with a built in cooler. My stock radiator was acting as if it was leaking so I ordered it.

Upon install I found out that my 15" solid mounted fan (with a 1/2" spacer) made contact with the lower tank, as it sticks out past the core.

This is a 350 swapped vehicle, done in most likely the 70's (orig with a 327), that then sat from 1983 until I purchased it 2 years ago. I did not place the engine and there are no marks on the radiator from contact.

With the stock setup I was struggling to find a radiator hose that would work (someone modified the lower inlet to the larger 350 water pump size) and ended up having to move the "U" bracket as far forward and to the passenger side as possible.

I then purchased 2 overly large coolers (about 1" thick) for transmission and PS - but didn't fit between the stock radiator and the grille.

I bought the thinner core Champion radiator hoping I could then utilize the lower cooler for PS and the overly large coolers for AT and oil.

I'm curious if others have had an issue or not?

After I move (in about a month) I'm thinking the best bet will be to:

1) cut the stock radiator lower mounts out
2) weld in square tubing as low as possible (still being under the protection of the frame)
3) notch/modify the "U" bracket to lower the radiator within the bracket (I think it can go down another inch or so)

Lower tank variances:

No room for an electric fan, only about 1.5" from water pump shaft to radiator

Cut out:

So that this can then sit lower in the frame.... then modify this so the radiator will sit lower as well:

 

[cruiserkreutz]

I just replaced my stock radiator with a new champion radiator (I have a SBC also). I ordered an electric fan with my radiator that didn't fit due to the (long) water pump. I ended up going with a short water pump to give me the needed room. This decision caused a series of water pump pully and alternator bracket issue's, but ended up working great.

 

[RAYJON]

Serpintine setups off chevy pickups are close to the old short water pump in length, if i remember right they are like 1/4 inch longer, it would gain you about one inch.

Take a trip to pick and pull with a power steering pulley puller and some 15mm sockets. Upgrade and gain some clearance.. good luck.. any 1990-97 chevy will work, you will have to buy the idler to replace the a/c compressor but other wise its real simple.

 

[inkpot]

Both of my chevy V8 conversions used a 2 belt water pump pulley and the water pump snout did not stick out nearly as far as it does on your 3 belt pulley. Might give you enough room for an electric fan. I was able to use after market mechanical fans. John

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I plan to convert to TBI - and I'm actually thinking it would be cheaper to buy a rig that's been wrecked or has a bad trans... then grab the motor, all electronics.... then scrap the rest... at which point I would convert to a serp belt setup (and is what I would much prefer anyways) and use the A/C as an air compressor. That will most likely be in a bit more time than the near future.

I'm thinking modifying the mounts (as I have scrap/tubular steel) will work in the meantime...

It's good to hear that it isn't just my setup that's this far forward...

 

[toyotaspeed90]

For anyone who cares or is following...

There was a roughly 1/2" spacer between the pump and the fan - and there was belt clearance to be removed. Still wasn't room for the radiator (or to be able to use the lower tank) so I went forward...

I notched/cut/grinded the lower section of the "U" shaped bracket that holds the radiator. Redrilled holes in the radiator to drop lower (this gained about an inch)

I then cut out the stock radiator mounts and used some thick 90* metal, welded that to each side of the frame, then flatbar between those as a mount for the "U" shaped bracket. This allowed me to move the radiator as far to the passenger side (to get away from the Saginaw steering rod, now that the entire unit sits lower in the frame) as possible.

Ordered 2 new (smaller) coolers and used some thinner flatbar to mount them in front of the radiator.

Had to get a new lower hose, but upper hose still worked (very mild trimming). Ordered 11/32 hose for the trans (ran those through the frame) and the provided hose with the coolers worked for the PS. Used 5/8" heater hose cut in small pieces (then sliced) to wrap around the cooler lines anywhere they meet a hard edge.

Still needs to be filled, but this is the end result:

I have about an inch of clearance from core to fan and the lower tank is now usable.

 

[Elfman]

For anyone who cares or is following...

There was a roughly 1/2" spacer between the pump and the fan - and there was belt clearance to be removed. Still wasn't room for the radiator (or to be able to use the lower tank) so I went forward...

I notched/cut/grinded the lower section of the "U" shaped bracket that holds the radiator. Redrilled holes in the radiator to drop lower (this gained about an inch)

I then cut out the stock radiator mounts and used some thick 90* metal, welded that to each side of the frame, then flatbar between those as a mount for the "U" shaped bracket. This allowed me to move the radiator as far to the passenger side (to get away from the Saginaw steering rod, now that the entire unit sits lower in the frame) as possible.

Ordered 2 new (smaller) coolers and used some thinner flatbar to mount them in front of the radiator.

Had to get a new lower hose, but upper hose still worked (very mild trimming). Ordered 11/32 hose for the trans (ran those through the frame) and the provided hose with the coolers worked for the PS. Used 5/8" heater hose cut in small pieces (then sliced) to wrap around the cooler lines anywhere they meet a hard edge.

Still needs to be filled, but this is the end result:

I have about an inch of clearance from core to fan and the lower tank is now usable.

Got any pics of this from the top or front? How's it been working? I'm working my way through a similar issue. going champion rad and taurus efan. not enough room!

 

[shelfboy1]

Serpintine setups off chevy pickups are close to the old short water pump in length, if i remember right they are like 1/4 inch longer, it would gain you about one inch.

Take a trip to pick and pull with a power steering pulley puller and some 15mm sockets. Upgrade and gain some clearance.. good luck.. any 1990-97 chevy will work, you will have to buy the idler to replace the a/c compressor but other wise its real simple.

not sure but i think serpentine pumps rotate the opposite direction than standard belt drive

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Got any pics of this from the top or front? How's it been working? I'm working my way through a similar issue. going champion rad and taurus efan. not enough room!

That got completely scrapped. I have a proper crossflow, large tube, biggest radiator I could fit.

I then went EFI.

It's been a nightmare. I think many of my issues stem from the 350 actually having issues with the heads being cut too much.

Photos before I installed the puller fan.


The thing to note here - first things first, make sure your engine is healthy.....

 

[bikersmurf]

In ‘96 when I did my conversion, I removed the stock mounts and replaced them with a pair of L brackets I bent up out of 1/8” steel. This moved the U so that the bottom of it was flush with the bottom of the frame. At the same time I also moved it over towards the passenger side.

 

[workingdog]

Did you ever get all this to work? Was their anything wrong with the top to bottom flow setup?