MOBILE ONE OIL

[Beast II]

I decided to go with Mobile One 10w-30 for a change and was wondering if it is true that you can go 6 to 10,000 miles (changing the filter every 3k and topping off) between changes ?

At $7 Quart @ Napa, I'm hoping this is the case. Does anyone know of a cheaper place to buy this oil ?

Thank you,

Matt

 

[erics_bruisers]

But it at Wal-Mart in 5 quart jugs -- cheep-o central -- just buy your filters at the Toy. dealer --

-- you can go longer if you want (15K for BMWs), but dirty is dirty -- sort of like you can wear underwear for 5 days before it disintegrates, but it's better to have it cleaned more often...



eric

 

[erics_bruisers]

BTW -- it's a little over $4.20 at Wally-world when bough in the jugs --

eric

 

[cary]

You are getting screwed on the oil price. You should be paying less than $5 per quart, or as others said, at walmart for $18 for five quart containers.

Mobil 1 10w-30 is very thin for a 30 weight, you should run the M1 0w-40 or alternately, put in two quarts of 15w-50 Mobil 1 with the 10w-30.

Change Interval- It depends on how you use the truck. If you drive many short trips and the truck never warms up, change it every 5000. If you drive normally, you should be changing every 7500, if you drive freeway only, long trips 10,000 would be fine. Always change at least once a year. Finally, you don't need to change the filter every 3000 miles, change it when you change the oil.

Cary

 

[erics_bruisers]

could you imagine changing the oil filter with the crankcase full??



e

 

[Pskhaat]

[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35339#msg35339 date=1061941928]
Mobil 1 10w-30 is very thin for a 30 weight, you should run the M1 0w-40 or alternately, put in two quarts of 15w-50 Mobil 1 with the 10w-30.
[/quote]

I've never actually heard anyone suggest combining different weights? We've all had to do it here and there, but never at fill time? Secondly, why is everyone suggeesting the 0-40 now? I have slowly worked my way from the 5-30 to 15-50 over the years and now everyone's screaming this 0-40; pray tell why?

 

[Pskhaat]

[quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35603#msg35603 date=1061999349]
could you imagine changing the oil filter with the crankcase full??
[/quote]

Done it many times, why?

 

[cary]

[quote author=3fj40 link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35607#msg35607 date=1061999774]
I've never actually heard anyone suggest combining different weights? We've all had to do it here and there, but never at fill time? Secondly, why is everyone suggeesting the 0-40 now? I have slowly worked my way from the 5-30 to 15-50 over the years and now everyone's screaming this 0-40; pray tell why?
[/quote]

You can blend oil weights, from the same manufacture, to adjust the weight. In the case of M1, their 30 weight oil has a low 9.8 cst @ 100c (30 weight runs from 9.3 cst-12.5 cst), the 50 weight is 17.3 cst. You can blend the two 3/1 and you get about a 12w-30 with a cst of about 11.7 (healthy 30 weight). On average, it appears that high 30 weight, low 40 weight oils produce the lowest engine wear.

The M1 0w-40 is a great oil for a few reasons. 1) it has been developed to meet the new MB 229.5 long life change intervals, 2) it meets the Europe A3 spec, 3) it is factory fill for porsche, mercedes amg, austin martin, and others, 4) it is a low 40 weight oil, 5) it still somehow gets the API starburst for fuel saving oils, 6) Mobil one in all grades is the only widely available Group IV pao oil, and finally 7) it offers far better low tempurature pumping than 10w-30, so less wear at startup.

The recommendations for 30 weight oil (and now 20 weights) in the US are being driven by the EPA and fuel economy standards. While here in the US cars are specing 5w-20 and 5w-30 to meet fuel economy standards, the same cars overseas are being speced for 5w-40. I you look at all the europeon cars (A few volkswagen/audi models being the exception) they are calling for Xw-40 Synthetic oils in Europe and 5w-30 here. Note that the 40 weight is reduction from the traditional 20w-50, likely because Synthetic can better handle high tempurature high stress wear better.

Cary

 

[erics_bruisers]

[quote author=3fj40 link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35609#msg35609 date=1061999805]
Done it many times, why?
[/quote]

oops -- my bad -- i was thinking something that didn't make sense... ???

 

[Pskhaat]

[quote author=cary link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35620#msg35620 date=1062003731]
On average, it appears that high 30 weight, low 40 weight oils produce the lowest engine wear.
[/quote]

I hate asking this because this becomes a flood gate of opinion from elsewhere, but ignoring EPA and US suggested oil weights for emissions and efficiency, what would then be your opinion on the proper weight (even using M1 mixing) for the 1FZ-FE and 2UZ-FE engines?

 

[Desertmaster]

Matt,

Always found the oil in walmart for around $4.00 or so, I change the oil every 5k with filter, it is a small insurance policy than losing an engine.

My $0.02

Thanks

Al

 

[Beast II]

Looks like I got hosed on the $ for the oil, so Walmart next time. So, should I dump the 10w-30 and go with a different weight ? I've only got 66,000 miles on the Cruiser.

Thank you,

Matt

 

[cary]

Leave the 10w-30 in it for this interval, next time go with the 0w-40. The Mobil 1 10w-30 is a great oil, it is just a bit on the thin side. I should have mentioned before, Mobil one even says the 0w-40 can be used in place of 5w-30.

Concerning the weight of oil to use in the cruiser, do a search on this board. There was a 3 page discussion about it a couple of months ago.

Cary

 

[erics_bruisers]

I couldn't find the discussion, Cary -- I know it's out there -- but all I found was a lot of name-calling by Junk...

 

[cruiserdan]

[quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35695#msg35695 date=1062018388]
I couldn't find the discussion, Cary -- I know it's out there -- but all I found was a lot of name-calling by Junk...
[/quote]

Eric, no matter how you refine the search you'll get that :

That is unless you can find that elusive window when he was out of pocket.

 

[cary]

[quote author=erics_bruiser link=board=2;threadid=4683;start=msg35695#msg35695 date=1062018388]
I couldn't find the discussion, Cary -- I know it's out there -- but all I found was a lot of name-calling by Junk...
[/quote]

First, the name calling by Junk is normal, so don't worry about it. In fact I think it is part of the code in the search engine, without it, the engine wouldn't run.

Second, I am sure to everyone's chagrin (sp), I brought the threads back up to the top. Perhaps we can make the long one a five page thread.

Cary

 

[instigator]

Beast have you considered not changing your oil at all? look at these site and see the other side of the spectrum http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/ http://www.wefilterit.com/ http://www.fuelpolishing.com/index.htm http://www.harvardcorp.com/index.html

yes i have one of these on my 4runner(frantz) and now one on my cruiser(gulfcoast 01JR) the studies and oil analysis speak for themselves, just do some reading and surfing and you'll see the light

 

[Jim_Phillips]

I have to say what a refreshing change it is to read Cary say that you can drive for 10,000 miles without changing oil and that you only need to change the filter with the oil. I agree with him.

Personally I think it is a waste of money to change your oil more frequently than the manufacturer recommends. My 80 had its oil changed every 10,000 miles - as per the Toyota recommended schedule. Why does everyone panic about engine oil? You don't hear of too many people repacking their birfields every 10,000 miles instead of the recommended 60,000 do you? So why the engine oil? Maybe because it is an easy job to do?

I say relax. Most new cars sold in the UK don't require an oil change before 20,000 miles. Many can go longer (most now have a computer that tracks your speed, usage etc and then recommend service intervals based on the type of driving you do) My Dad's Audi went 28,000 miles before the car told him to take it in for an oil change.

Save money - just check the level and don't worry

Cheers, Jim

 

[cary]

Jim,

I need to add some caveats to your statement.

First, you need to draw a line between Synthetics and Mineral oil. The Used Oil Analysis (UOA) shows most mineral oils breaking down in 3000-5000 miles depending on use and application. Synthetics in the same application will usually double the life to 6000-10,000 miles. Note that the new european cars with long change intervals specify synthetic oils.

Second, the long intervals specified by some manufactures are really pushing the limit, and exceeding it to a certain extent. There have been UOA's of BMW's running BMW Branded Synthetic (A group III+ castrol oil) for the full 15,000 mile interval, they are not pretty. The oil appears okay for about 10,000 miles.

Third, the length of time you can go between oil changes is a function of 1) oil capacity (more capacity, more additives to deplete), 2) how highly stressed the engine is, 3) engine condition, and 4) driving conditions. Short trips, cold weather, heavy towing = shorter changes, highway driving= longer changes.

Fourth, I would not recommend going the full 7500 mile interval on a mineral oil in the cruiser, I would expect 5000 to be the limit. I will be changing out the M1 0w-40 on mine at 6000 and taking an oil sample for analysis to get an idea of how long the oil should be lasting.


Finally, concerning bypass filters. I am still not sold. If any of you want, go to bobistheoilguy.com under the used oil analysis and read the discussion of the 30,000 mile oil change with a bypass. I have my concerns because I have not seen any side by side comparision testing between having a bypass and not.

The summary of the discussion on bobistheoilguy is, the guy using the bypass is draining 1-1.5 quarts every 3000 miles and changing the bypass filter (a roll of toilet paper, still strikes me as funny, but I guess it keeps your s**t clean ). So he drains and adds a quart every 3,000 and by 30,000 miles has done 2.5 oil changes in essence. My concern is that it is not the bypass filter doing the cleaning but in fact the constand draining and adding of a little oil.

I also question the economics of bypass filters. By the time you spend the $200 or so for the filter, plus the time and mess of constantly changing the filter element, why not just run the oil 6000-10,000 miles and change it out.

Cary

As always my opinion is worth the proper use of a bypass filter.

 

[instigator]

Cary i respect your opinion and can tell by the way you posted that you repsect mine and others, thanks

a few points on the bypass filtering
1 yes you do kinda do a complete oil change at a certain mile mark but there point for the bypass is to keep the oil clean at all times and not just for the first few miles you put on fresh oil.
2 the TP is kinda of an odd thing to be placed into an oil system, i was very sceptic of this as well but after alot of reading of those that have the setup i was convinced of the magical properties that it now poseses in my oil path.
3 enviromentally its is better to do this because of the less oil used (and you can press out the oil in the element for the recycle tank).
4 after the initial cost for the filter setup the filter changes are much cheaper than doing a compleat oil change every 3-5k or even 10-15k like i was doing w/M1. now i spen roughly $5 evry 2-3k for a qt of M1 and a roll of scott 1000(in the individual packs only).
5 its not as messy as would think the TP holds the oil pretty good and is far less messy than what it was when i was draining all the oil and changing the spin on filter (very messy here)
6 what do you think the spin on oil filters media is made out of ? paper albeit maybe a more rigid card board but its still cellulose just like TP(oil doesnt break down the tp )


not tring to play instigator here ,just want to inform and maybe we can save a lot of oil ,money and our engines to boot