Builds Mitsubishi 4D34-3AT3B diesel swap into 94 FZJ80 (6 Viewers)

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I went with a Cummins 6.7 VGT turbo. It's a little maintenance heavy but spool time is very good with a spring holding it in choke mode.

180hp? I haven't put mine on a dyno, but i like to think she's making 200hp and between 5 and 600 lbs of torque. Factory rating was 145hp and it was a freaking DOG at that level. It would actually lose a little speed up hills@70. Now she will hit 100 quick but I've only done that once :poop::eek:

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What would be a good turbo upgrade candidate for a 4d34t? I have a borgwarner k27 around but im afraid it might be too big and its externally wastegated. My stock turbo is td05 14b good spool up sucks at top end.i wanna get at least 180hp..
 
I went with a Cummins 6.7 VGT turbo. It's a little maintenance heavy but spool time is very good with a spring holding it in choke mode.

180hp? I haven't put mine on a dyno, but i like to think she's making 200hp and between 5 and 600 lbs of torque. Factory rating was 145hp and it was a freaking DOG at that level. It would actually lose a little speed up hills@70. Now she will hit 100 quick but I've only done that once :poop::eek:

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Whats the turbine and comp wheel specs on your turbo sir? But i think you have a 6 cyl 4d31 i have a 4 cyl 4d34t.
 
What would be a good turbo upgrade candidate for a 4d34t? I have a borgwarner k27 around but im afraid it might be too big and its externally wastegated. My stock turbo is td05 14b good spool up sucks at top end.i wanna get at least 180hp..

Whats the turbine and comp wheel specs on your turbo sir? But i think you have a 6 cyl 4d31 i have a 4 cyl 4d34t.

Curious if you have a boost gauge, i was hitting 25psi and the stock td06 i had wouldn't fully clean up the smoke. Mines a 4.9, you have a 3.9 maybe it would work for you?

Otherwise for turbo upgrades, you can probably follow what 4bt guys do since they're 3.9 liters too.
You could go compounds with what you have, swap to a larger single, or upgrade what you have.

I would have to search my HE351VE specs, but could measure my td06 if you want.
 
Curious if you have a boost gauge, i was hitting 25psi and the stock td06 i had wouldn't fully clean up the smoke. Mines a 4.9, you have a 3.9 maybe it would work for you?

Otherwise for turbo upgrades, you can probably follow what 4bt guys do since they're 3.9 liters too.
You could go compounds with what you have, swap to a larger single, or upgrade what you have.

I would have to search my HE351VE specs, but could measure my td06 if you want.
I agree, I can see 20++ psi out of my stock td05 all locked down. Enough to push through.y stock head gasket.
What would be a good turbo upgrade candidate for a 4d34t? I have a borgwarner k27 around but im afraid it might be too big and its externally wastegated. My stock turbo is td05 14b good spool up sucks at top end.i wanna get at least 180hp..

If you want more turbo, you're going to have to start doing with the Cummins guys do and o-ring your cylinder head, ARP studs, yada yada yada.
But yes 200 hp is achievable easily, anything that Cummins guys do to their 3.9 liter 4bt we can basically do to these.
 
Hey Pacer, on the subject of timing, did you bump the timing on your truck to compensate for the loss of the pre-stroke actuator? I think if you timed like a P7100 4BT (15-16 BTDC) it would work great. Louder at idle since you don't have any timing advance/retard, but what a rocks-simple engine swap! Bolt in and rock-out!
I haven't touched timing, though now that you mention it...
Help me understand what pre-stroke would do, would it affect idle or wide open throttle?
Which way shall I turn it first?
I'm ready to play!
I had been holding off even turning up fuel much untill I had hooked up the ECU (pre stroke computer), but, clearly that isn't happening...
When I first installed the motor I cut off all the safety caps on the pump, cranked up the boost compensation slightly because I knew I was locking down the wastegate and rebuild the injectors, but that's it.
It doesn't blow any black smoke ever at the moment. Little bit of white smoke on cold start.
 
I just got
Curious if you have a boost gauge, i was hitting 25psi and the stock td06 i had wouldn't fully clean up the smoke. Mines a 4.9, you have a 3.9 maybe it would work for you?

Otherwise for turbo upgrades, you can probably follow what 4bt guys do since they're 3.9 liters too.
You could go compounds with what you have, swap to a larger single, or upgrade what you have.

I would have to search my HE351VE specs, but could measure my td06 if you want.
A boost gauge gotta try it first and bump up the fuel a little.also planning to go 3 inch exhaust to get everything freed up. Ive also read bumping up preboost fuel how is this done on the 4d34t?
Thanks for the info Crashmonk and Pacer, not much info about modding a 4d34t..my observation between the bd1t and 4d34t in stock form the 4d34t has little more tourque.

Would adding a boost controller also help raise boost pressure?
 
I haven't touched timing, though now that you mention it...
Help me understand what pre-stroke would do, would it affect idle or wide open throttle?
Which way shall I turn it first?
I'm ready to play!
I had been holding off even turning up fuel much untill I had hooked up the ECU (pre stroke computer), but, clearly that isn't happening...
When I first installed the motor I cut off all the safety caps on the pump, cranked up the boost compensation slightly because I knew I was locking down the wastegate and rebuild the injectors, but that's it.
It doesn't blow any black smoke ever at the moment. Little bit of white smoke on cold start.
Pacer, how dou you crank up boost compensation?
 
I just got

A boost gauge gotta try it first and bump up the fuel a little.also planning to go 3 inch exhaust to get everything freed up. Ive also read bumping up preboost fuel how is this done on the 4d34t?
Thanks for the info Crashmonk and Pacer, not much info about modding a 4d34t..my observation between the bd1t and 4d34t in stock form the 4d34t has little more tourque.

Would adding a boost controller also help raise boost pressure?
I skipped the boost controller and just plugged the line off the turbo. Full boost all the time.
Not saying it's the right way, but this really is just a tractor engine.
 
I agree, I can see 20++ psi out of my stock td05 all locked down. Enough to push through.y stock head gasket.


If you want more turbo, you're going to have to start doing with the Cummins guys do and o-ring your cylinder head, ARP studs, yada yada yada.
But yes 200 hp is achievable easily, anything that Cummins guys do to their 3.9 liter 4bt we can basically do to these.

Do you have experience with blowing head gaskets on these? I wouldn't think 200hp necessitates o-ringing the engine and arp studs.

But.... i have yet to blow a head gasket so I can't really confirm! I realize there's not many of us hot rodding the mighty mitsy, but would be helpful to share experiences. Mine has been very reliable, if a little(lot) stinky...

The pre stroke actuator is only in the electronic pumps right?
 
Do you have experience with blowing head gaskets on these? I wouldn't think 200hp necessitates o-ringing the engine and arp studs.

But.... i have yet to blow a head gasket so I can't really confirm! I realize there's not many of us hot rodding the mighty mitsy, but would be helpful to share experiences. Mine has been very reliable, if a little(lot) stinky...

The pre stroke actuator is only in the electronic pumps right?
[Hijack on]
True, I'm not a good example here, but will share.
Like I said ^^^ I blocked the wastegate boost line, put a big hevey spring on the wastegate, plugged the blow-off valve and let her have full boost all the time.

Stock blow off would pop around 15psi, when I originally plugged it I noticed water temp climbing and being erratic, coolant started pushing out of every possible hose junction and even out of an old solder repair on the radiator itself.
This took me a while to pin down and finally ended up reducing the spring tension on the wastegate and re torqued the head bolts.
Caveat is, I've had the head off and did not have it checked or decked. I should have.
So what was happening is combustion/boost pressure was pushing through the head gasket and was over pressurizing the cooling system.
I saved it and am still driving it this way today, but have no desire to go hunting for more boost, at least until I find the black smoke. But that'll be way too much for an old 60 series to handle anyway.
[/Hijack]
 
Suppose.... I should stop the hijack. Not terribly relevant to Fromages thread...

I appreciate your story, and will need to watch mine. I've been throwing 25-30 psi at mine for a couple years without over pressuring the coolant system.

I have always been under the assumption of cast iron heads not needing to be milled. Since diesels run cooler yet, i think that should apply double to them.

But i don't know, the mitsi is still very undocumented. We gotta stick together!
 
Pacer, you can spill time your engine to figure out the timing. The pre-stroke actuator changes the point of injection and the duration. Since there is no mechanical advance on these pumps (electronic) you can time it like a P7100, which has static timing. If you spill timed it around 15-16 I think it would run really well, but it will be loud at idle (like a 2nd gen Ram).

Crashmonk, no idea on your pump, but it looks like a standard governor. You can crank the full fuel screw all you like but you won't get much more RPM unless you mess with the governor function - Either move the stops on the throttle arm, or actually mess with the governor (install a stronger spring). This is dangerous because you can easily blow your engine up. On the 1st gen dodges, the governor in the pump defueled around 2500 or so, there was a bosch spring to move them up to 3200 or even 4000, makes a lot of difference.

I have no doubt I'm pushing more than 200 hp out of my 4D3 with no fueling mods beyond racking the pump and a better turbo/intercooler... Still never see over 1000F on the pyro.
 
I measured the snap ring that holds the output shaft flange to the rear planetary assembly and it was 0.070" thick. When I place the AW450 output shaft into the A440F rear planetary assembly, i only have clearance enough for a 0.035" thick snap ring which would suggest that the A440F flange is around 0.035" thinner. Wished I had measured it when I had the transmission all apart.

However, there is about a 0.050"+ gap between the teeth on the flange and the bottom of the slots in the rear planetary assembly that they fit into so it may be that the way that the AW450 flange is machined is not allowing it to drop all the way down into the slots. When the AW450 output shaft is inserted into the AW450 rear planetary assembly, the teeth do bottom out in the mating slots.

I'm not sure if this will be of much value to you as it could be that we are comparing apples and oranges.
Hi astr iam swapping a 4he1 in to a 94 fzj80 amd i really really need the spacer data for the aw450 to hf2a transfer case iam stuck and need this badly . I know this is an old thread but a gold thread for sure..
 
Pacer how d
How did you adjust your pre boost fueling? Got pics?
There was a a can on the back of the diesel pump, about the circumference of a beer can but shorter.
Pop the cap off the back of the pump and adjust away.

These pumps are similar to Bosch, zexzal, denso in line pumps. They all share patents.

Keep reading around.
 

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