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Mitsubishi 4D34-3AT3B diesel swap into 94 FZJ80

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Fromage, Jul 22, 2010.

  1. Johnstone

    Johnstone

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    Thanks for the update mate, picture would be great! It's good to see that it's been working well for you. How has the fuel consumption been?
    What size turbine housing does the tdo4 have on it, a 6cm? And how early do you see boost with it? (Considering a td04hl-19t for my 15b).

    I'm considering trying to find an aw450 from a wrecked Hino/Mits etc. to run behind the 15b with the right bellhousing, but I think the trans control will be the challenge. It's likely a standalone trans controller might be the best option, but it'd be costly. Sorry if it's in your thread, but is there any factory TCM's separate to the engine control that could possibly be used to control the aw450? 15b is mechanical injection. The other option is to just go with an a440, but the controllable 2nd, 3rd and 4th lockup sounds very attractive!

    Thanks, Sam
     
  2. Pacer

    Pacer SILVER Star

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    I'll jump in here too, if I may?
    I have done a similar, yet more basic version of this swap into a fj62 platform.
    I used the stock a440 mechanical trans, and never hooked up the timing computer to the diesel pump. It has run awesome this way for 30000+miles.
    Like Fromage says, little bit raucous, like a tractor!
    My truck idles over anything you point it at and will run 80mph actual all day. Stock gearing on 33"s. Stock turbo, 20psi, 3" exhaust through a 24" long glass pack. I too would like it quietererer. 20mpg all day, no matter what.
    Lovin' it!
    Thanks again for the guidance fellas!
     
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  3. Fromage

    Fromage

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    Boost comes on early - pretty much off idle. It's like the accelerator controls boost. Near instantaneous increase. I think it's a 7cm (Volvo V70, sourced from a junkyard).

    All of the AW450s have a standalone TCM. I gets some inputs from the engine, but I don't think it needs much. Superhatch (build thread one here) had one running with a mechanical pump, it didn't need very many connections made. I have a feeling you might be able to figure out what it needs to run.

    Glad Pacer got his running. An A440F/4D34 is a great option, I am saving a bellhousing and torque for this purpose...
     
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  4. Johnstone

    Johnstone

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    OK too easy, I'll have a look at Suoerhatch's build. Thanks Pacer and Fromage. Good to know about the Td04, sounds like an ideal match for a ~4L motor.
     
  5. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    @Fromage @Pacer have you found a good parts source? I need a hotter thermostat than 160*, but don't want to wait 2 months for China parts. Hoping you may have had better luck than me.

    Thanks
     
  6. Fromage

    Fromage

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    Parts have been easy for me, my local dealer is really good, and there are a few sellers on Ebay that sell NOS and new OEM parts for cheap. I got diesel injector tips for 19.95 on Ebay, brand new Zexel made in Japan. That made a huge difference, the engine runs a lot smoother now. Why do you need a higher Tstat? I run the stock one, seems to work fine (lots of heat).
     
  7. Fromage

    Fromage

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    A couple of recent improvements - The oil filter was always very close to the front diff at full bump. I put some caster bushings in it this summer, and it rotated the diff down and away from the filter, now there's tons of room. Cut and turn / bushings really helped the handling. I also rebuilt the injectors, easy to do with a homemade pop tester (they are single stage injectors). They were all popping early, 2750, 2600, 2600 and 2400 and dripping (!). Spec is 3130 PSI. They are all back on spec, no added shims. That made a big difference, idles better, smoother - Probably better MPG but we are on winter blend now and it idles a lot (-36C a few days ago).

    The only thing I am still a little mystified by is the timing procedure. I found an older manual that contained a procedure for spill timing the pump, and I tried it, but I can't get it to work. The flow from the #1 delivery valve never stops. I have a feeling the electronic governor is holding the rack closed, which means the spill port is open (rack in closed position). I might pull the front rack position sensor off the front and see if I can spill time it with the rack held open.

    Edit: I have checked the timing with a pulse adapter, I just wanted to follow the OEM procedure and compare, but it doesn't appear to work. On a 4d34t with a mechanical governor,I am sure if would work fine, but on the electornic, I think the manual procedure can't really work unless you ensure the rack is at least partially open.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  8. Fromage

    Fromage

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    Hey Pacer, on the subject of timing, did you bump the timing on your truck to compensate for the loss of the pre-stroke actuator? I think if you timed like a P7100 4BT (15-16 BTDC) it would work great. Louder at idle since you don't have any timing advance/retard, but what a rocks-simple engine swap! Bolt in and rock-out!
     
  9. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    I have a pseudo- mitsu dealer i originally bought the factory t stat from. It was 76.5* Celsius, which is about 169f. My original stat was 82* or 179f. It takes a long time to heat this pig, so even 10 degrees difference i will take.

    I discovered an Isuzu 4bd1 t stat is nearly identical, which the exception of the valve on the back side being wrong location/diameter. What does that valve block off? When i stick my finger in the stat housing, it appears top be a hole for a second heater hose that i have blocked off. So i decided top ignore this differerence and installed the zuzu stat.

    Seems to warm up faster, but I've not gotten out on the highway or gone much distance with it yet. My radiator is also 100% blocked off, so i keep an eye on temp.

    In the pics below, i have the zuzu stat, original bad stat, and the right is the replacement 76.5* stat

    20180111_130849.jpg

    20180111_130436.jpg
     
  10. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    I have been running 6d34 nozzles for about 2 years now, when i changed nozzles i ordered these because i thought "bigger must be better."

    My 6d31 with 34 nozzles smokes like a bastard when warming up and stinks of raw fuel after it's warmed up. I should have new nozzles this weekend that match my original part numbers. I know someone with a pop tester, i just need to find my psi spec.

    Will be interesting to see if i lose power or not. Mine is all mechanical.
     
  11. Fromage

    Fromage

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    When I was looking into injector tips, there seemed to be a few different spray angles for these engines. Mine uses a DLLA146PN122, which is 146 degrees. Other applications used up to a 158 degree if I remember correctly. If you were using injectors with the wrong spray angle it would smoke a lot. I don't think you need new injectors to make a lot of power on these, you can rotate the pump elements (more fuel), crank the governor (more fuel) and change the turbo. That should get you all kinds of power for free/cheap. You have a 6D31 in a Cruiser? What trans? That's a lot of motor!
     
  12. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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  13. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    Dlla155pn057 is the factory nozzle for my 6d31, at least what i pulled out and what i have ordered.

    So am i to interpret the number after dlla is the spray angle?

    Yes the 6d31 is a LOT of motor for a cruiser. While i didn't need a SOA, i do not have any room for a puller cooling fan.

    Previous owner of the engine had this mated to a GM NV4500, which i then adapted to the split case.
     
  14. Fromage

    Fromage

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    I'm no expert but that's what I was able to figure out. The part numbering is the same as bosch nozzles. DLLA is the type of nozzle tip (DLLA is a sac type nozzle as opposed to DSLA which is a pintle tip), 155 is the spray angle, PN is the nozzle type, and the rest is a unique identifier. I remember your thread now, that is a big motor!
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
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  15. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    @Fromage Do you know a lot about the mechanical pumps? I have my fuel screw turned all the way, but have a strange issue with rpm. I adjusted my governor to allow up to 3800 rpm, but when driving it, you can feel the fuel run right out at 3k rpm. It will rev up to 3800 but the power dies right at 3k.

    I also see my pump can be physically rotated but have not had much luck moving it with the lines still hooked up. Not sure if there is much to be gained there or not in the way of timing.
     
  16. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    So i finally got my nozzles, the 6d34 nozzles i have been running are 160 degree angle. My factory angle(6d31) is 155 and the tips are smaller in size.

    I paid $75 shipped from China for a set of 6. Guy on eBay had some other number nozzles, i messaged and asked if he had my part number, low and behold he did! Made a listing of 6 just for me, we came to agreement on price, and bam 1 whole month later here they are.

    20180116_172405.jpg

    20180116_171556.jpg
     
  17. Mykol85

    Mykol85

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    Good day guys i have a 4d34t 3at3a with mechanical injection pump here in the P.I. i was wondering on how to turn up the fuel?i want to add a couple more horses. It would really help if you can show a picture of the screw to turn.

    To also add i have a td05 turbo , ive been researching on the internet and came across kinugawa turbos the have 2 upgrade turbos available td05 17c and td05 18g.has any body had any experience with these turbos?

    I want to get about 180hp out of this engine..will this be possible?
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018 at 5:20 AM
  18. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    The dip stick tube is in the way but here it is. When you turn the screw however you must also rotate that external lever. It's a little stiff.

    Screenshot_20180123-055054.jpg
     
  19. crashmonk

    crashmonk

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    I saw the kinugawa upgrades too, but ultimately swapped the whole turbo.

    Am i wrong thinking the connotation 3ata meant electronic? My 6d31 is 0at
     
  20. Mykol85

    Mykol85

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    Sir CrashMonk thanks for the quick reply.My 4d34 has a mechanical injection pump. Is it possible to get 180hp from this engine? By the way what turbo did you use?