Hi
I have a 1990 FJ70 3F, I installed a pertronix ignitor ll (lobe sensor version) and their flamethrower coil today.
First start and drive was good, no problem. I took it for a spin after an hour and the thing was misfiring, so annoying. In that hour I think I left the ignition on for a few minutes.
The way I connected the wires is as follows:
Coil positive has: both wires that were attached to the ballast resistor and the ignitor red wire.
Coil negative has: a wire from the harness that was connected to the old coil and the black ignitor wire.
I was researching all day, and I did a couple of tests.
1. Resistance test from the ignitor plate to coil negative. Result was 0 ohms, sometimes 0.1 ohms. 0 ohms was suspiciously really good, but good. Suspicious because the resistance between my test leads is 0.1 ohms, it should be larger than that but it wasn't.
2. Voltage test, with a jumper wire from coil negative to engine ground. Red test lead on positive coil, black test lead on same engine ground. Result was 11.15V. Good because more than 8V according to the pertronix troubleshooting guide. I didn't do the crank voltage test because I was working alone I wouldn't be able to see the voltmeter by myself.
Guide found here (PDF WARNING):
Now I'm lost, the only thing left is a fried ignitor unit. I really hope it's not that.
So I have a couple of questions.
1. The old points and condenser used to join at a bolt on the side of the dizzy, from there a wire would go to a negative wire. If I connect that wire now to the body of the dizzy the car wouldn't start. Why? Should that wire stay non used after removing the points and condenser?
2. If someone had a similar issue please help, this thing is driving me nuts. I do tend to miss simple little things and I do hope this is one of those instances.
Thank you all
I have a 1990 FJ70 3F, I installed a pertronix ignitor ll (lobe sensor version) and their flamethrower coil today.
First start and drive was good, no problem. I took it for a spin after an hour and the thing was misfiring, so annoying. In that hour I think I left the ignition on for a few minutes.
The way I connected the wires is as follows:
Coil positive has: both wires that were attached to the ballast resistor and the ignitor red wire.
Coil negative has: a wire from the harness that was connected to the old coil and the black ignitor wire.
I was researching all day, and I did a couple of tests.
1. Resistance test from the ignitor plate to coil negative. Result was 0 ohms, sometimes 0.1 ohms. 0 ohms was suspiciously really good, but good. Suspicious because the resistance between my test leads is 0.1 ohms, it should be larger than that but it wasn't.
2. Voltage test, with a jumper wire from coil negative to engine ground. Red test lead on positive coil, black test lead on same engine ground. Result was 11.15V. Good because more than 8V according to the pertronix troubleshooting guide. I didn't do the crank voltage test because I was working alone I wouldn't be able to see the voltmeter by myself.
Guide found here (PDF WARNING):
Now I'm lost, the only thing left is a fried ignitor unit. I really hope it's not that.
So I have a couple of questions.
1. The old points and condenser used to join at a bolt on the side of the dizzy, from there a wire would go to a negative wire. If I connect that wire now to the body of the dizzy the car wouldn't start. Why? Should that wire stay non used after removing the points and condenser?
2. If someone had a similar issue please help, this thing is driving me nuts. I do tend to miss simple little things and I do hope this is one of those instances.
Thank you all
