Minitruck Conversion Tie Rod Insert Problem

Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
10,146
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
Please see pics. I am doing a minitruck disc brake conversion using minitruck arms and stock fj40 1974 tie rods. I have a tie rod kit and am using inserts for the steering arms.

On the pass side I put the insert in and tried to tighten the castle nut down, it threaded down but not far enough to insert the cotter pin. I tried to torque it on tighter and ended up stripping the nut and the tie rod threads.

Thinking I must of done something wrong I looked at the drivers side and ensured that I installed the insert in correctly. I tried the same process on the driv side and same thing, the threaded portion would not come up long enough in order to put in the cotter pin and no go. I even pressed the insert in with a c clamp before starting.

Any ideas of why this is not working correctly? specter p# 094-23H-SPR
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 094 Land Cruiser Front End
part way down the page.

I am wondering if the insert is really necessary? I am considering getting a new pass side tie rod end and installing them without the inserts.

Thanks,

Noah
IMG_20110629_181009.jpg
IMG_20110629_181135.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 19, 2003
Messages
1,198
Location
Marysville, PA
When I did the swap, we just used the Ford alternator bushing and it worked fine. Had to put a washer between the castle nut and arm so that the cotter pin would be engaged with the castle nut.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
10,146
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
I am considering running it without the inserts, what are the ill effects of doing this? from what I could tell when I insert it without the inserts it seems to go together nicely. I am thinking if I use no inserts and some washers it should be good and tight. It sure seems like these inserts are not working, that is for sure.

Noah
 
Joined
Dec 19, 2003
Messages
1,198
Location
Marysville, PA
Depending on if the TRE is tight in the steering arm hole or not woudl dictate if you can run it that way. I would think that if there was slop it would translate into poor handling and could eventually weaken the TRE.

Like I said, I had to get a pair of the alternator bushings for mine and they snugged up nice with the addition of a washer below the castle nut.

As long as your knuckles are not the smaller pattern, then it is impossible that mini truck steering arms would bolt in.
 
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
3,432
Location
Phoenix
I had similar issues on my swap recently. I barely got the castle nut on far enough for the cotter pin. I ended up using small pins. Seems okay, but I am keeping an eye on it.

Bummer yours stripped
 

tucker74

Moderator
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
4,803
Location
Austin, TX
I ended up going with the Borg-Warner #SB0 bushing in mine, these are brass and I tapered it by cutting a small slit with a cutting wheel on my angle grinder. This is thinner than the SOR bushing, and will put you in between where you are and no bushing at all ;) They will have play w/o any bushing ...

Good luck!
Tucker
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
10,146
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
I ended up going with the Borg-Warner #SB0 bushing in mine, these are brass and I tapered it by cutting a small slit with a cutting wheel on my angle grinder. This is thinner than the SOR bushing, and will put you in between where you are and no bushing at all ;) They will have play w/o any bushing ...

Good luck!
Tucker

so did you cut a slit all the way through the bushing from top to bottom? are these available at any local parts store? any more info on the slit you made and the part #?

thx,

noah
 

tucker74

Moderator
Joined
May 12, 2003
Messages
4,803
Location
Austin, TX
so did you cut a slit all the way through the bushing from top to bottom? are these available at any local parts store? any more info on the slit you made and the part #?

thx,

noah

The part is Borg-Warner SB0, which crosses to AutoZone part# 4200B. It's a brass bushing with a slit down it already, all I did was cut a second slit at an angle to remove a small pie section. That way it will compress to a cone when inserted -

Tucker
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
10,146
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
found the part # and ordered locally, should be in tomm, also have some new tre's on order, I am thinking that you must of cut a v shape slit in one side of the bushing, correct? I am hoping with these and the beck arnley tie rod ends, it shoudl work.

Noah
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
35
Location
Reno, NV
I used the exact same sor bushings as you did after my mini truck conversion, except I have the exact opposite problem. The castle nuts bottom out on the tie rod ends. As a result the cotter pin is essentially useless. Everything is tight but i have always been curious if that was a normal occurence .
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2003
Messages
10,146
Location
"the whale's vagina", CA
Website
www.noahsarkstlc.com
I used the exact same sor bushings as you did after my mini truck conversion, except I have the exact opposite problem. The castle nuts bottom out on the tie rod ends. As a result the cotter pin is essentially useless. Everything is tight but i have always been curious if that was a normal occurence .

weird, I wonder if they are out of spec and not made properly? I know sor has them made I believe. Anyhow, should have parts sat and hopefully everything will come together nicely.

Noah
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom