MIG welding questions... (1 Viewer)

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Good information. Not to hijack but some related questions of my own:

How does one reverse the polarity?

What is the recommended wire size for flux core welding body panels?

Can a 110 MIG be used with gas?
 
toyman317 said:
Good information. Not to hijack but some related questions of my own:

How does one reverse the polarity?

What is the recommended wire size for flux core welding body panels?

Can a 110 MIG be used with gas?


inside the machine normally behind an easily accessible panel, or even in the bay where the wire goes, there will be a few "jumpers" that get switched around. the machine should even have a sticker with instructions right there as well.

i don't recall, but i believe that innershield is only avialible in limited sizes, with 0.030ish being the smallest.

a 110v machine can run gas, as long as it has the ability to do so, not all of them do.
 
Last edited:
Diesel 42:

To update, I built a stand for the welder itself by using scrap bedrails and whatever else I could find (computer case doors, etc.) last night and I found that I CAN actually find the sweet spot, and that the thin gauge sheets are indeed a problem area for me. When welding onto .25" plate or rods, I found it to be easier to burn into. I am currently trying to recall what my old welder friend used to do in his technique. This guy was 75 years old when I last saw him, and he had been welding for about 35 of those years. He always pointed out that WHERE and HOW MUCH heat was applied to a certain area would heavily dictate how your project will hold together in the future. So, I just need to practice every day until I get it.

Toyman,
Just to confirm what Brian said, my particular welder does have the instructions for doing so very plainly on the inside cover by explaining the polarity change according to the type of wire used (i.e., flux or wire/gas). You can always check online for instructions on your particular setup.

Hope that helps..
 
spdwaver1 said:
Hello everyone

I just purchased a Lincoln SP135-T to do some project welding with. I am learning (hence the questions) and I am now ready to tackle my 40. Here are a few "dumb questions."

Equipment:
-- Lincoln SP135-T (not the Plus model),
-- .030 flux core wire
-- Inexperienced operator (with "dumb" questions)

Here goes:
1. Do I need to disconnect the battery on the vehicle? My thought was that while I am sending current through the vehicle, the battery could be at risk in some way.

2. Amperage (or heat) and wire feed setting: It has a four-way rotary heat dial, full variable feed/speed. When welding on the tub, what approx. settings should I use? I have burned through 14 GA. like it was nothing, at just about any setting. (again, inexperienced)

FYI: I will only be welding on the bumper for now, NOT the tub, until I gain experience.

If anyone has been in my position (being a noob), I am all ears.

Thanks,

Sean

Congratulations now you're going to have some fun

Flux wire is fine especially if you need to weld outside
just get a lot of scraps in the thickmess you will be working on
and practice then practice some more, when you get a nice weld write down
your setting on the machine and steel gauge it will save you time later on
keep everything clean and buy some anti spatter spray or nozzle gel
coat lightly the surrounding of your weld and slag removal will be a breeze
even Pam/vegetable oil works well and it is cheaper
 
Good job on building the stand. Be sure to point out to your wife or girlfriend that the machine is already saving her money(never really flies with mine, but i always point it out)! The antispatter was a great point, that will help. Something else to learn/consider is tip application. Some welders prefer to push the wire, drag(backwards), circuliar motions, half moons(back and forth) thus allowing the puddle to cool. Once mastered, it looks like someone stacked dimes(smaller of coarse). Become a metal junky. Don't pass any free steel up. Harber frieght sells a dessent auto darkening helmet for around $50.00. That will help keep your eye on your work without fussing with the helmit/lens.
 
Here's something I read in a Custom Trucks mag, reguarding doing body work, that I hope some of you more experianced welders will comment on. On tips for welding sheetmetal panels it was recomended to load your Mig with a roll of Brazing wire, reversing the polarity, and using straight Argon. It stated by using this method heat was minamized , so you don't get the warpage in your sheetmetal. Maybe some usefull info? Hope this may help, Al
 
This thread is becoming very interesting just because I'll be buying a welder soon.
 
Alz Toy said:
Here's something I read in a Custom Trucks mag, reguarding doing body work, that I hope some of you more experianced welders will comment on. On tips for welding sheetmetal panels it was recomended to load your Mig with a roll of Brazing wire, reversing the polarity, and using straight Argon. It stated by using this method heat was minamized , so you don't get the warpage in your sheetmetal. Maybe some usefull info? Hope this may help, Al

I am not an "expert" but it really is not necessary to go through that
just use the right heat setting, thin wire 0.8 and be quick
a wet rag on hand is useful to quickly cool a weld or surrounding metal to avoid warpage
 
Welding thin stuff with your mig....

For one, a wire machine with 100% argon gas works best (100% argon blows out impurities best and produces a cleaner weld). To find out how much heat to use with your project, get a piece of the steel you cut off the truck and run some practice beads on the actual steel you will be welding. Adjust your heat so that warpage is minimal, but not too cold. This way you can avoid blowing holes, and still make a strong weld.

My welder - Miller, Millermatic 251 wire feed with 100% argon gas.
 
I went and got a DVD on the basics of MIG welding this weekend. I gotta say it was very good. The DVD shows you how the welds will look like on different angles, settings and speeds. Even shows how the welding should sound like.

But, the DVD says there's nothing like experience.
 
grant5127 said:
I reverse the polarity on flux core welders & it cuts spladder by 1/2....

You sure that the spatter isn't going out the backside? Fluxcore welding is normally done DCEN while GMAW is normally done DCEP with the occasional use of DCEN to control penetration in thin metal such as autobody panels. So if you're switching from the normal fluxcore electrode negative to electrode positive and still using flux wire you might be pushing the flux right through the puddle to make spatter on the other side. In other words, the thinness of the material is the reason you don't SEE as much spatter because it can be molten all the way through instead of just part way. If it were partway your spatter would be turned back by the solid steel under the weld and blow all over the work side where you see it. I'd wonder at the quality of a weld done by the lucky melt over of some of the fill metal while the rest of the fill and all of the flux goes sailing into the netherland of unseen hollows.
Just theory.:) I don't play with such stuff.
 
TexasBadlands said:
Welding thin stuff with your mig....

For one, a wire machine with 100% argon gas works best (100% argon blows out impurities best and produces a cleaner weld). To find out how much heat to use with your project, get a piece of the steel you cut off the truck and run some practice beads on the actual steel you will be welding. Adjust your heat so that warpage is minimal, but not too cold. This way you can avoid blowing holes, and still make a strong weld.

My welder - Miller, Millermatic 251 wire feed with 100% argon gas.

I would not recommend you do this.. You will get ZERO penetration in 100% argon.
 
Silicon 70 said:
This thread is becoming very interesting just because I'll be buying a welder soon.
Wow...cannot believe the popularity of this post. I posted it, read through for about a week, then went on to bigger issues. And to think, I have since only messed around with my new welder, rather than anything significant; like welding on my 40. What was the title of the DVD you got?
 
Here the DVD I got.

It was very educational.
wmcgmaw.jpg
 
Thanks for the info.

Did you get a welder yet? I picked Lincoln SP135 up for 399.00 + tax at Praxair, who happened to have about 50 of them in his store. Other than that, the Lincoln SP135 Plus is different, in that it has a fully variable heat control knob, which someone like me will not appreciate until I become what most would call a novice.
 
Next weekend for me, that's when I get mine. I'm getting a Lincoln sp135t. I saw one on Ebay for $539, it comes with the cart, but $400 for the welder you paid for is a dam good deal. I can always get the cart somewhere else.

Are you in NORCAL too? If you are, maybe you can relay the info to the Praxair you went to.

Hehe I can't wait to get my welder. I've been getting scraps of metal to practice on from a construction site, various sizes. I just need to experience it.
 
Silicon 70 said:
Next weekend for me, that's when I get mine. I'm getting a Lincoln sp135t. I saw one on Ebay for $539, it comes with the cart, but $400 for the welder you paid for is a dam good deal. I can always get the cart somewhere else.

Are you in NORCAL too? If you are, maybe you can relay the info to the Praxair you went to.

Hehe I can't wait to get my welder. I've been getting scraps of metal to practice on from a construction site, various sizes. I just need to experience it.
I apologize, I have been away from this thread for a while. Late response ok?

I do not live in Norcal, but I live near Magic Mountain, in Santa Clarita. If you have not gotten your welder yet, I will still recommend getting this SP135T, because it is perfect for your rig.

I just welded on a bull-bar on the front, from the remains of a bed frame-2.75" approx. tubular round with a surprisingly thick wall. Turned out great; even the pros think so. And that was using flux-core wire...which, as they all say, not the cleanest or easiest way to do it. But that is why an angle grinder is so handy (especially at 27.99 for the unit).

As far as the Praxair dealer, they had 50 of these things leftover from a large cancelled order-they may have more left. Have your dealer look up the one in Santa Clarita (or Canyon Country) to see if they are stocked there at that price. That is, of course, if you still need one.;)
 
I went to my Praxair dealer and they tried to charge me $650 for it. So I'm just waiting for get a deal from Ebay.
 
Wait a minute...650?!!! They must have been referring to a SP135 PLUS...that one has the full variable amperage dial.

They should double-check if that is right. Was thinking...you maybe able to have it shipped UPS Gound to you from here...one to two days maximum, and probably get away with spending about 30 on shipping. Here is their information; tell them a 'friend' of yours bought it at $399.00, because they had about 50 of them in stock.

Praxair, Inc.
21450 Golden Triangle Rd
Santa Clarita, CA 91350
(661) 284-3519
 

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