Middle Row Seat Belts (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 18, 2020
Threads
55
Messages
503
Location
Philadelphia Pa
Hey guys
Just inspecting my 2019 Land Cruiser and found rear outer seat belt bolts sticking out of the wheel wheel .
I would have thought there would have been assembled in Japan ... Aperentlly both side have a long boit sticking out of the rear wheel well .
Any thoughts why dealer would have removed or forgot spacers or wrong bolts .
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I think this is the third thread we've had on this.

Common. Slap some grease on them and ignore.
 
I'm going to wizzer off a 1/2 inch and put some utrathan sealant
Please don’t.

Extra threads make for easy inspection and a bit of backup should the bolt back out. Since the 4th gen 4Runner, Toyota has been doing this. It’s not going to rust on you. Your frame and body above the rear axle will be rusted out long before that bolt cause problems, especially in PA.

If you really want to take care of your truck. Look at all the welds of your frame. Notice the slight brass tint to the weld. That will rust in no time. Also, inside the front bump stop brackets, every 200 I’ve seen has flaked metal in there. Or unbolt you exhaust flange bolts and get some anti seize in there so you don’t have to cut it apart in 15 years when replacing a rear main seal.
 
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I had a 2018 did not have the stud sticking out ... Its like the factory ran out of the shorter belt bolts and just used what they had .
I did check the rear 3rd row bolts just in case someone mixed them up .
I did not cut the bolts , I had some plastic thread caps , I used some 3m 5200 Urathane and just capped the bolts .
Thanks for the heads up on the rust and Anti-seize tip .
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I had a 2018 did not have the stud sticking out ...
Here is a 2020 HE I’m working on. My parents ‘18 is the same, my ‘11 is the same. The 73 other 200s that I worked on last year all the same (I notice it when I’m putting slider on)
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The fender well gets covered in that sprayed on stuff. Later the bolts is ran it. Sometimes the rubber splits to still look like it’s covered, sometimes is splits to expose the threads, but you can see the rubber on the back side of the bolt (like the picture of the 2020 above. Sometimes they fall off completely, like your 200 now.

Please don’t take this I’m trying to prove you wrong. I’m genuinely trying to help by saying that nothing got switched around at the factory.
 
My 2019 is just like the 2020 above.

I must say...that is some thick ass spray insulation.
 
I'm going to wizzer off a 1/2 inch and put some utrathan sealant

I also highly encourage you not cut the bolt off. It's not gonna hurt anything. The sealant is a good solution though.
 
If you really want to take care of your truck. Look at all the welds of your frame. Notice the slight brass tint to the weld. That will rust in no time.

@Taco2Cruiser , what product do you recommend on these welds?
 
This is my preferred technic, there are a lot of other good technics out there from others and they may or may not work for you better.

I coat my frame in Rustoleum Professional Enamel semi-gloss.

If there is already rust, I mechically remove it with a wire wheel if I have access to the rust. If I can’t get a tool in the area to remove rust, I use POR-15 rust inhibitor and an air gun. Then I’ll cost it with enamel.

There are also some really neat nozzles out there that let you pull a paint stream down the inside of a frame rail and get even coverage without over spray.

If I had a new 200, I would spray enamel in the front bump mounts, on the body that is located above rear axle housing, and a spray down each weld. Those are the areas I see beat up the most.
 
I think I'd also pop the rear bumper off and hit the rear crossmember/hitch too. Ever cruiser I've owned has ended up a rusty mess back there.
 
Thanks! What about cleaning prior to paint? Degreaser or brake cleaner?
I like phosphoric acid, but you can no longer buy it pure. Things like “crude cutter” are a diluted phosphoric acid, but they work generally well for getting the rust off, while not harming existing paint.

Prepping for paint is something I’m pretty good at, and you’ll always hear my talk about preparation is the most important part. That said, the rustoleum professional enamels stick to whatever, with little help. Grey primer (1-2 very light coats), then 3-4 light coats of whatever color you want. It will stick longer that it can handle impact abuse. I’ve found that the only reason to repaint is becuase the enamel gets peppered with gravel or scratched off with rocks.
 

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