Messed up HG while attempting to reseal timing cover

davidp14

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I'm more interested in how you pulled the oil pans without pulling the engine

I agree with previous advice of you may as well pull the head now. How many times do you want to pull the thing this far apart?
 
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Pulling the head is a lot more time and work, albeit with significant long term upside.

But it also starts the slippery slope ..
- Head rebuild or just gasket....???!?
- new head bolt$?
 
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I’ll have to check after work. I’d need to put theor


harmonic balancer back on with the bolt first tho
With the spark plugs out and the accessories off the front, there is very little resistance to rotating the internals,
Just slide on the balancer and rotate by hand
Or
you can just grab and use the flat spot on the cam....
 

alia176

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speaking of balancer, I'd also repalce it with a brand new unit. I know the OEM is mucho $$$ but a Dorman unit is supposedly and I confirmed this, has the same printing as the OEM one. A search will reveal all pics and info on this.

Ditto on the timing chain, slippers, and maybe the fan clutch refresh with new fluid (if you have hot summer months), new spark plugs, spark plug well rubber washers on the valve cover, spark plug wires, upper/lower rad hoses, T-stat, and I think that might be it. 🤔 Mud OCD is strong with this one.....
 
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I'm more interested in how you pulled the oil pans without pulling the engine

I agree with previous advice of you may as well pull the head now. How many times do you want to pull the thing this far apart?
I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.

I’d highly recommend just pulling the engine out tho
Pulling the head is a lot more time and work, albeit with significant long term upside.

But it also starts the slippery slope ..
- Head rebuild or just gasket....???!?
- new head bolt$?

New head bolts would be a must if I did the Hg. Do you think I’d run into issues if I rebuild the head and not the block. If the head is rebuilt won’t that put more pressure on the bottom of the block?

speaking of balancer, I'd also repalce it with a brand new unit. I know the OEM is mucho $$$ but a Dorman unit is supposedly and I confirmed this, has the same printing as the OEM one. A search will reveal all pics and info on this.

Ditto on the timing chain, slippers, and maybe the fan clutch refresh with new fluid (if you have hot summer months), new spark plugs, spark plug well rubber washers on the valve cover, spark plug wires, upper/lower rad hoses, T-stat, and I think that might be it. 🤔 Mud OCD is strong with this one.....
I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?
I’ll have to see if the timing chain is in spec when I get home, looks like the slippers might need to be changed… don’t these truck last 300-400k without a major overhaul???? We’re not talking about a ford engine here
 

alia176

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I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.

I’d highly recommend just pulling the engine out tho


New head bolts would be a must if I did the Hg. Do you think I’d run into issues if I rebuild the head and not the block. If the head is rebuilt won’t that put more pressure on the bottom of the block?


I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?
I’ll have to see if the timing chain is in spec when I get home, looks like the slippers might need to be changed… don’t these truck last 300-400k without a major overhaul???? We’re not talking about a ford engine here

The HB rubber cracks are hard to see because you aren't exactly able to force them to open up like you can with suspension bushings. This is one of those "while you're in there" type of things that most of us suffer from.

Agree with you on the timing chain, if it's within specs, leave it alone. These things are built like a tank as you know. I'm at 285k, turboed and still on the original timing chain.

DId you remove the #2 oil pan, which is the beefy oil pan above the actual oil pan ? If you did, then you might as well as to the upper oil pan arch seal project funnery. My writeup on this should still be in the FAQ section.

I'm assuming you're also doing the front main seal and oil pump O ring and re-seal with FIPG, "while you're in there" :flipoff2:
 
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The HB rubber cracks are hard to see because you aren't exactly able to force them to open up like you can with suspension bushings. This is one of those "while you're in there" type of things that most of us suffer from.

Agree with you on the timing chain, if it's within specs, leave it alone. These things are built like a tank as you know. I'm at 285k, turboed and still on the original timing chain.

DId you remove the #2 oil pan, which is the beefy oil pan above the actual oil pan ? If you did, then you might as well as to the upper oil pan arch seal project funnery. My writeup on this should still be in the FAQ section.

I'm assuming you're also doing the front main seal and oil pump O ring and re-seal with FIPG, "while you're in there" :flipoff2:
Oh you betcha, in neck deep in the "while you're in there". I'm over 10k in OEM parts at the moment, and am wanting to be more realistic with my 25 year old cruiser.

Yeah I removed the upper oil pan with the engine still in it. Next time, I'll just remove the whole engine :) . I'll check up that FAQ.
 
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If you think you wanted to remove the engine so far,
wait till you start to pull the head ...(if you do)

Ugh.

A fresh head does not put any additional stress on the bottom end.
It just leads to a bigger case of "while I'm in there" as you start to slip down the slope to a full rebuild....
 

alia176

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Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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Preventative maintenance Bro! Heard of it? Every 3k new HG. :smokin:
When you removed the camshafts did you notice any worn down cam bearing caps?

Pic 1: exhaust side
Pic 2: #7 exhaust cam bearing
Pic 3: #4 intake cam bearing

F9D6586B-B968-4D23-9139-3EAEA43D5383.jpeg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
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Do you have the head off for a rebuild?

A good machine shop can mic those and see if it need to be repaired.

Pretty common thing to do for a machine shop.

They plane a bit off the mating surface of the caps, then install them, then line bore it back to spec.

I've had to do this on several motorcycle heads.
 
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I took the sway bar tie rod, and jack the passenger motor mount up with a floor jack and a 2x4.

I’d highly recommend just pulling the engine out tho


New head bolts would be a must if I did the Hg. Do you think I’d run into issues if I rebuild the head and not the block. If the head is rebuilt won’t that put more pressure on the bottom of the block?


I did notice the rubber on the HB was a bit hard, would it really be necessary?
I’ll have to see if the timing chain is in spec when I get home, looks like the slippers might need to be changed… don’t these truck last 300-400k without a major overhaul???? We’re not talking about a ford engine here

My HB failed at 220k for what it's worth. Rubber life was probably reduced from oil due to a front main leak.
 

alia176

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My HB failed at 220k for what it's worth. Rubber life was probably reduced from oil due to a front main leak.

I bet mine failed for the same reason as rubber doesn't like petroleum infusions!
 
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Do you have the head off for a rebuild?

A good machine shop can mic those and see if it need to be repaired.

Pretty common thing to do for a machine shop.

They plane a bit off the mating surface of the caps, then install them, then line bore it back to spec.

I've had to do this on several motorcycle heads.
I already dropped it off at the machine shop a few days ago, they asked me to take off the camshaft and the buckets...
 
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Did you get that head back yet? How did it go?
I did, it’s sitting in the garage right now.

I sent it over to a friend who works at the local dealership and he adjusted and cleaned the valves for me! 250 for the valve job seemed like a very good price, so I had to get him several cases of beer to thank him.

I’ve been busy with school but hopefully I’ll be able to mount it back on the block with new timing chain, tc guides, and all the other “while you’re in there” parts.
 

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