media blasting POR15 from body panels

[rusmannx]

so this is part two of my POR15 problem (which started at the link below).
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/289101-por15-spray-problem.html
not wanting to hand strip this hood i think i'll try out the media blaster i've had for 3 years and never used.

I know POR is supposed to be a bugger to get off, but at the same time i don't really want to warp the hood by using something like sand.

Maybe I should walnut or crushed glass? anybody know what they are talking about when it comes to media?

 

[KY Longhunter]

Why couldn't you just spray some epoxy primer over top of POR then some high fill sandable primer?

p.s. I'm new to bodywork so maybe not a good idea...I'm sure somebody more experienced can chime in.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Brake fluid will take the POR15 off

 

[makomark]

I would first try the spray on paint stripper they sell at Advance auto, it is real strong. It shouldn't take more than 2 cans and about an hour of your time. Media blasting with a low/medium volume blaster will take a long time to do.

 

[3jvj]

Whyg do you want to remove it?

 

[dargreg]

Leave it on its one of the best rust inhibitors there is.Prime it and paint it.

 

[copasspupil]

You can't prime it now that is has sealed itself. You have a small window which you can apply a primer on it and will not effect the surface but if you want and he did too long, you can't apply a primer on top and expect it to work correctly. It works the same way as DP90 epoxy primer but the difference is that after 7 days with DP, you can scuff it and it will allow an additional application of the epoxy and reactivate/re-cure it together.

 

[copasspupil]

To further answer your question, the brake fluid would work better than media blasting. On hoods as with some parts of a TLC, you do not want to blast it as the heat will warp it. You are better off with sandpaper or the BF and trying to remove the material than way. No heat, no warping and better for you in the long run.

 

[Degnol]

Or you can fork over the dough for POR's TiCoat which will bond to the POR-15

 

[copasspupil]

Is that new? I was told nothing would bond to it if it was beyond the tacky stage?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

You can't prime it now that is has sealed itself. You have a small window which you can apply a primer on it and will not effect the surface but if you want and he did too long, you can't apply a primer on top and expect it to work correctly. It works the same way as DP90 epoxy primer but the difference is that after 7 days with DP, you can scuff it and it will allow an additional application of the epoxy and reactivate/re-cure it together.

I thought you could prime hardened POR15 if you sanded it first.

 

[Degnol]

Is that new? I was told nothing would bond to it if it was beyond the tacky stage?

TIE COAT PRIMER-POR-15 Inc.

I thought you could prime hardened POR15 if you sanded it first.

They also sell a self-etch primer. POR is a bitch to sand, but it can be done.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

They also sell a self-etch primer. POR is a bitch to sand, but it can be done.

The directions say if you wait to over coat POR15 with another product it has to be gone over with sand paper. I did that before over coating with the POR15 Chassis Black as it had been a couple weeks since I had painted the base coat POR15. Worked fine.

 

[dargreg]

I would think if you used brake fluid ,even though it works ,you would further contaminate your surface. I,ve scuffed fully dried POR15 and primed it ,was ok.If your really worried blast it with wallnuts and re do it.

 

[joeyg1973]

POR-15 comes off with any hardware store paint stripper. Just need to let it soak longer. Same applies to powder coating I have learned. My local hardware store has this orange based stuff in a spray can that works great.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I was actually half kidding about brake fluid. I know it takes POR15 off but I would also be concerned about contaminating the metal. I know one metal gets brake fluid on it, it's a bugger trying to get anything to adhere.

 

[copasspupil]

I stopped by the paint supplier and they said indeed that you coat POR15 once it has completely dried but only after you tear into it with sandpaper - coarse grit. Again ideally you do is when it is at the tacky stage like I thought. They make a spray that you can use to remove rust and rinse with water but you have to shoot primer on it immediately following.

 

[rusmannx]

i already have the tiecoat primer because the rest of the tub that is being replaced was PORed about a year ago. POR instructions say the tiecoat works great on cured POR.

The whole reason to strip it is because the application came out terrible. There is a whole thread devoted to WHY it came out the way it did. The link is at the top of this one.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

That looks like a serious case of fish eye to me. You must have used something with silicone in it to wipe the hood down before painting it. Why did you decide to paint it with POR15 anyway? If it was in good condition and down to bare metal you'd be better off priming it with epoxy and topcoating.