measure pinion angle (1 Viewer)

[euclid]

SOA perches on my new FF. Staying spring under for now, so I gotta weld the SUA perches back on. I'm gonna use it as an opportunity to make the pinion angle perfect. Yes, I'm leavin the SOA perches on (just in case).

Pretty sure I got this, but I wanted to make sure. I know I want about 1 degree difference between the pinion angle and the transfer output angle. Do I measure on the output flange on the tcase, and the transfer input (companion flange?). To ask it another way do I measure where the driveshaft meets on both ends?

If I'm thinking right I put the angle finder on the flange, subtract 90 from the larger angle, then turn the pinion until it is 1 degree ofset from the tcase angle? Zat right?


Thanks

 

[bustanutley]

huu? your thinking too hard, make the angles the same (same plane) if you are using a d-shaft with joints on both sides, if anything point the axle down 1 degree to battle vibs while on the gas.

Look at your angle finder from opposite sides of the vehical for either flange so you are on the same side of 90

 

[Cube Dweller]

Your measurement process is fine. I dunno about the offset for a sprung under. Thought the rotation under load is typically 2* but shimming the rear axle on mine to allow for 2* didn't alleviate the driveshaft hum. The article section of Pirate has a pretty thorough write up...

 

[YODA 88 62]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

 

[euclid]

Lot's easier when you are under there than when you are reading lots of tech stuff on the interweb. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[sixty]

Its very simple. the cheap angl;e finders from home depot work great & all you do is turn them around & it will still read the same angle. turning the pinion down 1* is not all that necessary especially since you have lift springs that should fight wrap more than stock. There can usually be around 4* difference before you get vibrations.

I'm still driving around with your MC calipers in the front seat of your truck. hopefully I'll get them out to you this week

post up some pics!

 

[euclid]

Yeah, I was sweating getting that right and when I got under there it was a breze.

Finished the front last night. Gotta get the ARB plumbed and I'll be done.

Big ole hub stickin out looks cool.

2nd pic you can see that I put the swaybar back on. I would have missed it when I carry a roof rack full of gear, especially boats. I have quick connects for the ends for wheeling. I also extended the links.

You can also see that I kept the OEM Load Sensing Proportioning Valve, which is extednded up closer to the body to keep it factory height. I am hopeing to mess with the adjustment enough so that I won't need another proportioning valve. I bet I can, because with it set like it was with the drums I can lock up the rears. Only issue with brakes is a mushy pedal. I'm pretty sure the brakes are bled really well, gotta figure out what else it could be.

 

[sixty]

Looks good! the LSPV should work fine. I had a real firm pedel with the Eldo's... all I can think is you still have air in the lines. you can try to circumvent the LSVP & that might work great. On my truck I had the prop valve all the way open and the stock prop valve removed and it worked perfect.

 

[euclid]

Looks good! the LSPV should work fine. I had a real firm pedel with the Eldo's... all I can think is you still have air in the lines. you can try to circumvent the LSVP & that might work great. On my truck I had the prop valve all the way open and the stock prop valve removed and it worked perfect.

I'll try opening the LSPV all the way and see if that does it.

 

[euclid]

Took the truck to a buddy's shop this afternoon. Using a 4 wheel alignment machine I found out that the rear axle is in perfect allignment. -.18* on one side +.34 on the other. Alignment man said that he reguarly sees +/- 1* variation. Guess all the figuring I did paid off! Damn thing still vibrates like the bed in a cheap motel though!

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