i run 35's on mine and have just slight rubbing on the inside of the wheel well if it's fully flexed out.
max tire size on a ome 2.5" lift??
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I'm assuming your talking about the rear wheel well?
I just put a 3.5 inch lift on mine. I did a lot of research before I decided on the lift. With a 2.5 inch lift you can safely run 285s (33 inch) tires and have nothing to worry about. It seems you can even run up to a 305 but you may have a small amount of rubbing.
As soon as you go to 35's, you'll need to start doing additional mods. I wanted to run 35s for a number of reasons in addition to liking how they looked. To ensure I would have no rubbing problems, I went with IPOR's 3.5 inch lift. Check out IPORs site and you can see what you'll need over and above a 2.5 inch lift.
Slee recommends his 4 inch lift to run a 35 inch tire and there are number of legitimate reasons for his recommending this lift. I may eventually convert over to his heavier springs as I add weight to the vehicle.
As everyone has commented, the most important factor is what you want to do with it. I plan to add a lot of weight. While I will primarily use it as an expedition vehicle, I also want to be able to go to Moab and go rock climbing hence the 35 inch tires and 3.5 inch lift.
As soon as you go to 35's, you'll need to start doing additional mods. I wanted to run 35s for a number of reasons in addition to liking how they looked. To ensure I would have no rubbing problems, I went with IPOR's 3.5 inch lift. Check out IPORs site and you can see what you'll need over and above a 2.5 inch lift.
Slee recommends his 4 inch lift to run a 35 inch tire and there are number of legitimate reasons for his recommending this lift. I may eventually convert over to his heavier springs as I add weight to the vehicle.
As everyone has commented, the most important factor is what you want to do with it. I plan to add a lot of weight. While I will primarily use it as an expedition vehicle, I also want to be able to go to Moab and go rock climbing hence the 35 inch tires and 3.5 inch lift.
X2, just put a second set of MTZs (315) on mine, I ran the last ones for 35k miles....rubbed a little while twisting-out and lifting wheels, but in reality it only rubs for 6" or a foot of the trail untill you get past or over the obsticle, then it might be a year before you rub again. Not a problem for me.
I have a 2.5 OME Heavies up front, meds in the back. I put the lift in, drove down the road, twisted my truck up in the ditch, whent home and trimmed rear mudflaps and have not done anything since....too easy. I have to look awfully hard to find a trail that I can't navigate. Noy saying if had a win-fall that I wouldnt put a "full meal deal" 4" slee kit in, just don't really need it to get the job done.
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can u put 285 on a stock height without rubbing offroad?
285s will fit your stock 80. If you are going offroad and take your rig to a point that your tires might rub you will be beating the crap out of your tupperware and tire "rubbing" will be the least of your problems.
You don't have to have 4" of lift to even run 37's. People on this forum drive around and wheel with 35" tires on the OME 2.5" lifts.
Why would they not work?
I currently have 2.5" lift, a light car, no other modifications and 35" with very minor rubbing in the rear, Moab and all.
I am considering to add 1" spacers to the springs (possibly spacers for the Bilstein shocks as well, to stay cheap), and switch to 37".
Any flaw to my thinking? Wouldn't the extra static inch allow for the one extra inch in tire radius?
I guess I would have to start worring about brake lines and caster correction with the extra 1"...?
I currently have 2.5" lift, a light car, no other modifications and 35" with very minor rubbing in the rear, Moab and all.
I am considering to add 1" spacers to the springs (possibly spacers for the Bilstein shocks as well, to stay cheap), and switch to 37".
Any flaw to my thinking? Wouldn't the extra static inch allow for the one extra inch in tire radius?
I guess I would have to start worring about brake lines and caster correction with the extra 1"...?
To run 37s and get full advantage of your trucks capabilites I personally think you need a nice 4" lift and a set of gears. I also think 37s are just to much for hwy driving, those stiff sidewalls kind of numb your feeling of the road and tend to take thier own path, not horribly but they take a toll in a day of driving.
Correct.
OME medium 2.5" lift, 1" body lift, de-flaring with 2" rear bumpstop extension make a skinny 37" tire like the Trxus work. I'm a low COG guy and don't see the need to go above 2.5" of suspension lift.
I do like the FOR set-up and would consider it in the future when funds are available. But no, I don't think 4" is necessary for 37's. I think you could run 37's on OME 851 front/862 rear combo some have run if you just high clearance your front and rear fenders, but most folks aren't willing to take that step.
I do like the FOR set-up and would consider it in the future when funds are available. But no, I don't think 4" is necessary for 37's. I think you could run 37's on OME 851 front/862 rear combo some have run if you just high clearance your front and rear fenders, but most folks aren't willing to take that step.
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What brand 37" tires did you run? I DD mine and the Coopers ride/drive nice, well behaved. When the road is relatively level/straight, I can drive hands off for long stretches, it eventually climbs the crown, but even small bumps don't effect it.
For the road, I prefer the 37"s over the 295's that I ran before with stock gears. The 295's tended to hunt for gears, especially on climbs, the 37"s tend to down shift and go. For the trail, I need to install the 5.29.
Agree that about 4" of lift is the sweet spot. I run J's with a 1.5" spacer in the front, so about 5" on my rig. Have thought about removing the spacer and going with heavy springs in the rear, but it works well so haven't had the motivation to mess with it.
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I guess it depends on the tire width, rim backspace and intended rig use. I like to play in the rocks, but also enjoy long distance/higher speed runs, so prefer a pretty good amount of compression travel. A little more lift makes the higher speed stuff more comfortable, don't clobber the bump stops as often. Rig setup needs to be tailored to the intended use, the "ideal setup" will be different, depending on terrain and use?
I run flares and never hit them, on my setup the "problem area" is the rear frame/inner fender well. Mine clears everything, but there isn't much room for error, running a narrow tire and having the rim backspace dialed is key.
I will add that i do not have flares or mud flaps to worry about on tire rub.
