Master Window/Lock Switch Problems (1 Viewer)

[TPTTB]

Recently bought a 2010 LX570 and the master drivers door window and lock switch was not working. First thing I tried was buying a salvaged replacement from ebay. I installed it and it actually worked briefly (one car trip) then stopped working and I'm back at the same symptoms. I'm going to start digging in to the FSM and see if I can find anything, as of right now I'm totally unfamiliar with this system. Below is the full list of symptoms as well as what I've done so far to troubleshoot.

Symptoms:

• The driver door lock will not operate the locks (unlock or lock)
• The driver window switch for the driver window works, although the auto does not work
• The driver window switches for the rest of the windows are totally unresponsive
• The windows all work at their respective door switch, BUT something strange is that the auto does not work at first. I have to press the button twice for the window to operate. On the second push, it goes down. Once I roll it all the way up, the auto will work on the first click of the button.
  • This is not true for the driver door. I can't get the auto to work even after going up/down all the way and holding the switch.

What I've tried:

• Tried reprogramming the windows by holding the switch down, then up, after operating each window. Held for 5 seconds each way at top and bottom.
• When that didn't work, I ordered a salvaged switch and replaced it.
• Reprogrammed, didn't work.
• The next day, reprogammed again while my wife was driving and the windows and lock started all working fine!
• The following day, does not work anymore and the symptoms are all back identical to the list above.

Anyone have any ideas of where I should start? I will hopefully find a solution and keep track here in case this helps someone else.

 

[TPTTB]

Update: I turned the vehicle on again and did another reinitialization of the window switch. I have no idea why, but whatever I did caused the master window switch and locks to work again. All I did was push the driver window switch (saw flashing LED), then rolled the passenger window down (held three seconds), up (held three seconds). After that all the windows worked. HOWEVER, about 30 seconds later it stopped working. I didn't turn the car off or do anything, the master switch simply seemed like it reset. After that I could not reinitialize it successfully.

 

[fliggidy]

I've come across the same issue recently on my 2011 LC. and I have the exact same issue with yours where the lock and unlock does not respond as well as all passenger windows when attempted on the driver side. the switch on the respected doors will roll down and up and on the passenger door lock and unlock works. I've tried to reprogram as you mentioned and nothing. Any update on your end? TIA

 

[TPTTB]

Yes I thought I had updated this thread but apparently not. Everything works fine on mine now and I've had no issues. I don't know why I had problems initially when I replaced the switch, but it started working and has not hiccupped at all since.

I wish I remembered more but all I can recall is that I don't really know what I did that made it finally work - just the standard pairing procedure. I'd say go for a salvage door switch on ebay like I did and see if it gets fixed. Mine was like 65 bucks I think.

 

[bronc076]

Have you looked for codes? I just fired up OBD fusion to see what module to look in and it has driver power window listed. I actually have a historical code for the passenger door switch. I didn't know that was there as I've not scanned Network E before.

if you don't have a scanner now may be a good time to invest in one.

 

[Cokecan79]

I've come across the same issue recently on my 2011 LC. and I have the exact same issue with yours where the lock and unlock does not respond as well as all passenger windows when attempted on the driver side. the switch on the respected doors will roll down and up and on the passenger door lock and unlock works. I've tried to reprogram as you mentioned and nothing. Any update on your end? TIA

Did you have any luck on yours? Mine is doing it in my 2008 LC after getting detailed, I assume they unhooked the battery when cleaning the engine. I tried the up and down with all windows while holding the switch for 5 seconds still no go, there must be a special order to it?

 

[cubaniche]

I wish there was a concrete fix or explanation for this issue. It's happening on my 2014 too. We have a 470 and a 460 and both are super easy to reset after battery disconnect. Just hold the down, then up at each door and your done. Also, the switch led blinks to let you know they need to be learned. But on the lx the led's are all off and I can't get them to relearn positions so you can use the auto feature. Each switch has to be pressed twice to get the window to go down. It's super odd.

 

[SnoViking]

FYI:

I had this issue a few years ago and ended up disconnecting each door’s switch and spraying the connectors out with contact cleaner and then canned air. It fixed my issue and haven’t had any issues since. May be worth a try.

 

[cubaniche]

^^^^ did that and it didn't change anything. I ordered a used one off ebay and tried it and it made zero difference. There's got to be a specific reason why this happens. Maybe wiring in the door or something. So annoying that I can't use the lock/unlock switch or lower the windows from driver seat.

 

[marketShark]

I just found this thread because it happened to me. I had the battery disconnected for an extended period as not to accidentally set off the airbag when working on the steering wheel on another project.

My symptoms:
Only the driver window would roll down and up from the driver door controls.
One touch auto was not functioning properly for the driver window.

The rest of the switches would blink when I tried to depress them from the driver door control panel.
Also, none of the other windows (pass, right rear, left rear) would take instruction from the driver door panel switch. They would, however, operate conventionally from their respective doors.

How I fixed it-
I set the AUTO feature on each individual window using each door’s respective switch.

Only after ALL windows had been reset would the drivers door panel switch control the windows successfully.

 

[cubaniche]

I just found this thread because it happened to me. I had the battery disconnected for an extended period as not to accidentally set off the airbag when working on the steering wheel on another project.

My symptoms:
Only the driver window would roll down and up from the driver door controls.
One touch auto was not functioning properly for the driver window.

The rest of the switches would blink when I tried to depress them from the driver door control panel.
Also, none of the other windows (pass, right rear, left rear) would take instruction from the driver door panel switch. They would, however, operate conventionally from their respective doors.

How I fixed it-
I set the AUTO feature on each individual window using each door’s respective switch.

Only after ALL windows had been reset would the drivers door panel switch control the windows successfully.

That's the standard reset procedure for windows when you disconnect the battery or lose power. You have to do what you did at every window first, before the driver controls will work the other windows. You also have to do it for the sunroof so the one touch open/close/raise/lower works as well.

The issue I and the others in this thread were having was that the standard reset/relearn as what you did, wasn't working. No matter what we do, we can't get the driver door controls to operate the other doors. Also, the lock/unlock button doesn't work on the driver door. It's am odd issue. I can get the windows at each door to work from their respective switches but not from the driver door. For some, it seemed to auto-resolve itself. For others like me, it's still an issue. No one has nailed down a reason for why it happens or how to actually address it.

 

[mahoolaha]

I’m having a similar issue with my 09 LC.
Only Driver side window will roll down on driver master switch. None of the other windows will work regardless what switch I try. The locks on each door are working.
I have already checked for any moisture in the harnesses on each side and have not found any signs of water or corrosion. Any pointers?

 

[cubaniche]

I’m having a similar issue with my 09 LC.
Only Driver side window will roll down on driver master switch. None of the other windows will work regardless what switch I try. The locks on each door are working.
I have already checked for any moisture in the harnesses on each side and have not found any signs of water or corrosion. Any pointers?

I have no clue why this changed things for me but I just swapped the battery out for a new one. The old one was only 3 years old. But after I did this, everything started working fine. The battery was a lexus branded one with a 2020 date on it. I upgrade to a bigger group 35 Odyssey AGM.

 

[mahoolaha]

I have no clue why this changed things for me but I just swapped the battery out for a new one. The old one was only 3 years old. But after I did this, everything started working fine. The battery was a lexus branded one with a 2020 date on it. I upgrade to a bigger group 35 Odyssey AGM.

Interesting. I think I will try to disconnect the battery for an evening and see if it helps. Battery is 10 months old and replaced alternator a few months ago. Hopefully this is a much easier fix than that lol Thanks for the reply. I will update once I try the disconnect.

 

[cubaniche]

Interesting. I think I will try to disconnect the battery for an evening and see if it helps. Battery is 10 months old and replaced alternator a few months ago. Hopefully this is a much easier fix than that lol Thanks for the reply. I will update once I try the disconnect.

For what it's worth. I did a disconnect as well. It was one of the first things I tried. Maybe leave it disconnected overnight and leave the battery on a tender.

 

[mahoolaha]

Well unfortunately I had no luck with the overnight disconnect. Also didn’t find any codes thrown on OBD fusion app. Thinking about swapping out the driver master switch.

Option 1 $50 too cheap? possible scam? Toyota Land Cruiser Window Switch 2008-2014 - https://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-land-cruiser-window-switch/toyota-land-cruiser-master-power-window-switch-2008-2019-3/

Option 2 $475 ouch no guarantee it will solve my issue.

Genuine Toyota Power Window Switch - Toyota Parts Deal

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Anything else I should be looking at? I hate to throw parts at it.

 

[cubaniche]

Well unfortunately I had no luck with the overnight disconnect. Also didn’t find any codes thrown on OBD fusion app. Thinking about swapping out the driver master switch.

Option 1 $50 too cheap? possible scam? Toyota Land Cruiser Window Switch 2008-2014 - https://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-land-cruiser-window-switch/toyota-land-cruiser-master-power-window-switch-2008-2019-3/

Option 2 $475 ouch no guarantee it will solve my issue.

Genuine Toyota Power Window Switch - Toyota Parts Deal

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Anything else I should be looking at? I hate to throw parts at it.

Tough one for sure. I tried a new master. Did zero to change the problem for me specifically. My problem was super super odd though, which is why I thought the master was at fault. If I didn't touch the master switch, and did the relearn at each door individually (down all the way, hold, then up all the way, release button) those would work perfectly fine on theor own. Auto down, auto up. However, as soon as I tried the master on driver door, the other three would reset as if they had lost power (like on a battery disconnect) forcing me to have to go around and do the relearn again on those three. As long as I never touched the master, the three individually worked fine.

I still don't understand it. I have no idea why a new battery suddenly has it working fine or if that in of itself was a fluke, and all that seriously frustrates the hell out of me cause I don't like not knowing the "why" behind it lol

I hope you have better luck with the master switch swap!

 

[mahoolaha]

Update: All Windows work!

The window lock button never stopped working while depressed……

I’m a bone head. I must have hit it while cleaning the truck the last go around.

 

[cubaniche]

Update: All Windows work!

The window lock button never stopped working while depressed……

I’m a bone head. I must have hit it while cleaning the truck the last go around.

Glad it was something simple!

 

[nexizen]

Well, I'm lucky enough to have experienced this as well. So far nothing has fixed it for me. I'm super frustrated. I just want my windows to work!

How I got here:
My liftgate motor died, so I had to disconnect the battery while swapping it out. Afterwards I went camping for a long weekend. Everything behaved exactly as expected. Not a single issue all weekend. Then on Thursday I jumped in my rig to run an errand and the windows wouldn't work.

What I've tried:
1. Resyncing all of the window controls. I get the same behavior others have described. (Need to push the button twice to get the window move, but after a resync each passenger window switch works as expected. The master still won't behave.)
2. Disconnecting/Reconnecting the battery. I've tried multiple times with different amounts of time being disconnected.
3. Cleaning the contacts for the master switch. It was spotless, but I cleaned it anyway and added some dielectric grease.
4. Checked all fuses. I mean ALL of them. In-cabin and under the hood. (I'm desperate at this point.)
5. Cussed and threw things in my garage. (Not surprised that didn't help.)
6. Tested other features of the vehicle. I do have a list of other controls that are not working as expected. Maybe they point to something specific?
a. Seat memory controls don't work. The seat controls do, just not the memory.
b. Driver's door lock doesn't work. Key fob, exterior, and passenger door locks all work fine.
c. Key fob and valet key window roll-down functions do not work.
d. The drivers side window will roll up or down even without the car being on. Normally it would be locked until you turn on the car, but it works any time currently. The 'auto' function doesn't work, but the switch will move the window. I'm guessing this is a safety fallback function.
e. Driver's button for rear hatch doesn't work. Key fob and rear button work as expected. (May or may not be related, but I'm noting it down.)

My best guess is that it's a communication issue between the driver's master switch and the ECU. I'm thinking the signal goes from the master switch to the ECU, then to the individual windows. That would explain why the individual controls work and why the driver's window is not locking-out like it should.

Does anyone have any other ideas for what else to check? Is there anything in Techstream that would let me see the signals coming from the driver's switches? So far the fixes in this forum have been super random. (New switch, new battery, window lock button, bad wires, 'it just started working') There has to be a magic bullet.

I'll be busting out the shop manuals and digging around tomorrow. Maybe I'll find something in there. I really wish they were laid out better. But that's a topic for another day.