Mass Air Flow Meter

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Dec 25, 2003
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I have a crown victoria with 212k miles that started running rough and pinging at higher loads. I thought the engine was just shot. I learned at a website for CV's that if the MAF gets dirty it can through off your fuel injection system. The MAF tells the computer how much air is entering the engine. From what I've read, when a MAF gets dirty it indicates higher than actual air flow and causes the engine to run rich at low power and indicates lower than actual air flow causing the engine to run lean at high power .

At lower power levels (normal driving) your O2 sensor will update the fuel trim tables telling the computer to reduce the fuel flow to compensate for the richness. However, at high power the circuit goes open loop, disconnecting the O2 sensor and hence no updating. So when you jump on it, more air is going through the MAF than it is indicating to the FI system (causing the engine to run lean) plus the computer goes to the fuel trim tables and reduces fuel flow again (extra lean) causing low power and heavy pinging. At least on Fords the computer uses the fuel trim values learned at low power for high power (open loop) operation

When I cleaned the MAF on my CV the results were remarkable. It changed from a dog to a neck snapper. The increase in torque "made it feel young again". My cruiser doesn't have the mileage but it helped it too.

Here is a link to the cleaning procedure for a CV just to get the general idea, if you think you may have a MAF issue.

http://www.crownvic.net/tech/cleanmaf.html

You can also search the web for articles on MAFs. There is a good technical bulletin by Ford ( I think all the MAF's use the same detector design).

On my 95 LC the MAF is downstream from the air cleaner. If you take it out it looks like a jet engine. Look into the hole in the center with a flashlight and notice those two little wires that are the sensing elements for the MAF. If they are dirty you are in for a pleasant surprise when you spray them down with contact cleaner. I sprayed mine down and didn't have any negative reaction from the plastics, but proceed at your own risk. You might also have to disconnect your battery to dump the computer memory after you have a clean MAF to get rid of those old fuel trim values.

I'm no expert but this was very helpful to me and thought I pass it on.
Hope this is helpful for you guys with dirty MAFs.

Don't forget use electrical contact cleaner and not choke cleaner or other solvents. Also, compatability with the polymers in your MAF may be an issue, but it wasn't in mine.
 
I thought I had read that it was unwise to try to clean the MAF? if any problems pop up please let us know, if not this might be a nice PM

what brand/type of contact cleaner did you use?
 
Malcom,

>> If they are dirty you are in for a pleasant surprise when you spray them down <<
>> with contact cleaner. <<

1. How can you tell if they're dirty. Pics?

2. What brand of contact cleaner do you recommend and why?

-B-
 
More description of procedure for LC and pics of what to spray and what not to spray would be much appreciated.

This sounds like a good PM idea.

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
Beowulf said:
Malcom,

>> If they are dirty you are in for a pleasant surprise when you spray them down <<
>> with contact cleaner. <<

1. How can you tell if they're dirty. Pics?

2. What brand of contact cleaner do you recommend and why?

-B-

1) The MAF appears to be a little white plastic nipple with a tiny hole in front of the MAF venturi..... legal notice (I think). Usually in my old cars you can see how the filaments can become clogged with debris (dirt, oil for K&N filters, ect..).

2) This sounds wrong but it works. I use break cleaner (any) because carb cleaner and some contact cleaners leave a residue.
 
The MAF on my crown vic looked like someone sprayed it with primer. That is, it was coated with a gray residue. As far as what cleaner to use I was told not to use break or choke cleaner. Electrical contact cleaner apprarently leaves no residue that would tend to attract dirt. CrownVic.net is pretty specific about that. There is a test where you can disconnect the MAF. Then the engine computer assumes the MAF has faulted and defaults to calculating air flow based on rpm and throttle position. If your pinging and lugging go away, under those test conditions, then you may have a dirty MAF ( if you have disconnected your battery and dumped the computer memory).

In any event I'm not trying to pass myself off as an expert on these things. I tried it on my vehicles and had good sucess, and offer it for your consideration. I was hoping a sensor expert would chime in and set us straight. Ragardless, I'm a devout MAF cleaner.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/maf.html

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB23
 
I think a dirty MAF will indicate a LOWER than actual airflow. This is because they work by using a set voltage to create a certain temperature in the wire. Deviation from the temperature is then measured as resistance changes. If you insulate the wire with crud, the passing airflow will not cool it as much as it otherwise would, so the airflow is interpreted as lower than actual.

Somewhat irrelevent as a clean sensor is clearly important. Thanks for the tip. I think the manly 93/94s have a different system than the OBDII 95-97s and the pre 93 has a different system again

DougM
 
landtank-
any comments on cleaning while we await continued progress on your project?

cockroach
 
MAF cleaner

They actually make a MAF cleaner made by CRC I picked it up at my local parts store. Have not tried it yet but will soon.
 
This was a common practice for us explorer owners and it was well established that this was good practice when carefully done. It was part of a few routine steps to troubleshooting an underperforming engine.
 
Oh, this brings back memories from school. Hot wire anemometry was a lot of fun, but I did not realize they used it in the the MAF. You can learn more than you probably ever wanted to know about it here-

http://www.aoe.vt.edu/~simpson/aoe4154/hotwirelab.pdf

which is similar to a lab I did. My group held the record for breaking the most hot wires in a single lab session. :rolleyes: Not a real good grade booster, trust me.
 
They actually make a MAF cleaner made by CRC I picked it up at my local parts store. Have not tried it yet but will soon.

This is what I have used with good results. Plastic safe is the key.
 
For the most part fuel mixture is governed by the O2 sensors. While a dirty MAF might give the ECM a bad base calculation, once the O2 sensor sees an out of spec mixture it will have the ECM compensate for it by adjusting the fuel trim.

If you have a pinging from a lean condition look at the O2 sensors.
 
I replaced my O2 sensors, and although my mileage has considerably improved, my pinging is still very much so present.
 
Have you done the RavenTai temp gauge mod? Just wondering if you are running a little hot?
Yeah, I have, and I just did a brand new blue fan clutch with 6k fluid. I have a ScanGaugeII attached to my steering column so I've always got a realtime digital readout of my RPMs, Ignition retard, water temp, and intake air temp. I have the typical partial throttle loaded pinging. Shows up as about 26-32 retard (some arbitrary units, not degs I don't think) and my water temp is always at or below 190°F...

Dunno what the deal is. I thought 2 redline treatments fixed it but I was wrong. The only thing I've found that does anything is using higher octane fuel...
 
Yup, and I checked cam lobes for wear... everything checks out. Brand new properly gapped NGK platinum plugs, cleaned my dizzy, new PCV, new vac hoses.... I've tried to cover all my bases but the pinging persists :mad:

Gonna clean my MAF next weekend and see if it fixes anything, but I'm closely watching your MAF dev thread to see when I can switch over ;)
 

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