That oil leak is a cheap, and inexpensive form of mid west rust proofing, and by looking at your photos of the frame. I'd say it did a great job of protecting the underside of your truck from TONS of rust.
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- Thread starter jbyrd78
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ppc
M Go Blue
I agree with @jpoole for the most part about cleaning the wheels. Start scrubbing with a mild car wash detergent, soaking, repeating etc., step up to something stronger like simple green. At that point I would change to a polishing/cleaner and clay bar. If that doesn't get to the desired condition a rubbing compound is next. Stronger cleaners and specific wheel treatment would be the final attempt before actual refinishing including new painting, powder coating and clear coating. I've brought back wheels in worse condition than your pictures to a very acceptable condition without refinishing just cleaning and polishing.
- Thread starter
- #43
Thanks guys for all of your replies. I'm in shock about scoring this Cruiser for what I did and glad to hear that hopefully the things that need attention are minor issues.
I also forgot to mention, when I stopped at AutoZone, they ran a computer scan b/c my check engine is on. The code that came up is P0401 "Replace Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Vacuum Regulator and clean all EGR port." Is this something else that requires immediate attention?
I also forgot to mention, when I stopped at AutoZone, they ran a computer scan b/c my check engine is on. The code that came up is P0401 "Replace Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Vacuum Regulator and clean all EGR port." Is this something else that requires immediate attention?
- Thread starter
- #44
Speaking of oil lol. I have no records of when the last oil change, and what oil & filter was used. What's the "Gold Standard" oil you FJ80 lover's like to use?
Nice score!
Mobil 1 and Toyota oil filter are what I use. Don’t use a Wix, search threads.
P0401 is a common EGR code. You can find the service manual on this site and go through the troubleshooting which is not that hard. Could be a $120 VSV or a clogged port on the intake or a few other things. You can drive it as long as a need pretty much. Again search threads here too lots of reading.
For cleaning just browse the shelves at autozone and try a few different things to see what you like and what works.
You can always add ARB or Harrop lockers later if you want and still be ahead money wise of a factory locked rig.
Good luck!
Mobil 1 and Toyota oil filter are what I use. Don’t use a Wix, search threads.
P0401 is a common EGR code. You can find the service manual on this site and go through the troubleshooting which is not that hard. Could be a $120 VSV or a clogged port on the intake or a few other things. You can drive it as long as a need pretty much. Again search threads here too lots of reading.
For cleaning just browse the shelves at autozone and try a few different things to see what you like and what works.
You can always add ARB or Harrop lockers later if you want and still be ahead money wise of a factory locked rig.
Good luck!
Last edited:
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Dude...you are one lucky guy. You should go buy a lotto ticket next! Truck looks pretty decent for what you paid. Congrats!
Nice score! This looks like a fun resurrection. I love a black 80 series, they are pretty rare. And they look GREAT cleaned up.
Unfortunately he "coated" everything underneath. But that kinda looks like just flat black spray paint to me, which is good.
This is what id do, and Ive done this, many, many times:
1. First thing Id do is tighten all the valve cover bolts a little bit because I guarantee you they are loose. Then Id put a new wing nut on the air cleaner housing, its sucking in unfiltered air.
2. Then Id spray the engine bay down with some diluted Simple Green, scrub or "wipe" everything with a soft-bristled paint brush, then rinse it all with a garden hose sprayer. Then Id do it again.
3. Next id pressure wash the whole thing top to bottom and everywhere underneath. Hopefully, you have your own pressure washer or can borrow one. After you are done pressure washing it, Id do it again. And again. And then Id hand wash it with some good Carnauba car wash, Mothers or Meguiars.
4. After everything is dry, Id spray the underneath with Fluid Film. It will wear off in a year at most. In 6 months, Id pressure wash it again anyway hoping maybe some more of that black spray paint comes off, and Fluid Film again. Its pricey but its the best way.
5. On the wheels, Id pressure wash the hell out of them, then strip them with aircraft stripper, lightly scuff/sand them, then prime with several thin coats of primer, then spray paint them with several light coats of Metallic Graphite Gray. Will match the factory color of the bumpers. You can do yourself easily. In the northeast, you will be fighting corrosion on those wheels as Im sure some of the clear coat has worn away. Unless you have them professionally stripped and refinished and cleared which would probably be a couple hundred per wheel. Just strip them and spray paint them yourself for now.
6. Unless that left rear wheel has recently been rotated from somewhere else, you've probably got metal on metal, brake pads meeting the rotor on that one. Id address that and all the brakes.
I wouldn't worry about the P0401 code yet, at least until you have to for emissions inspection or something.
Id change oil to Castrol GTX 10w-40 conventional oil with a Toyota filter, or Motorcraft FL-1A.
Run premium fuel for a while, and run it hard. Run some sort of fuel treatment in the tank. Then Id Seafoam it. Injected into throttle body, burn out some carbon.
Then just drive it while going through a process of flushing all fluids and oils address leaks and other concerns as they arise. Top off the PS with Lucas power steering conditioner for the time being.
Unfortunately he "coated" everything underneath. But that kinda looks like just flat black spray paint to me, which is good.
This is what id do, and Ive done this, many, many times:
1. First thing Id do is tighten all the valve cover bolts a little bit because I guarantee you they are loose. Then Id put a new wing nut on the air cleaner housing, its sucking in unfiltered air.
2. Then Id spray the engine bay down with some diluted Simple Green, scrub or "wipe" everything with a soft-bristled paint brush, then rinse it all with a garden hose sprayer. Then Id do it again.
3. Next id pressure wash the whole thing top to bottom and everywhere underneath. Hopefully, you have your own pressure washer or can borrow one. After you are done pressure washing it, Id do it again. And again. And then Id hand wash it with some good Carnauba car wash, Mothers or Meguiars.
4. After everything is dry, Id spray the underneath with Fluid Film. It will wear off in a year at most. In 6 months, Id pressure wash it again anyway hoping maybe some more of that black spray paint comes off, and Fluid Film again. Its pricey but its the best way.
5. On the wheels, Id pressure wash the hell out of them, then strip them with aircraft stripper, lightly scuff/sand them, then prime with several thin coats of primer, then spray paint them with several light coats of Metallic Graphite Gray. Will match the factory color of the bumpers. You can do yourself easily. In the northeast, you will be fighting corrosion on those wheels as Im sure some of the clear coat has worn away. Unless you have them professionally stripped and refinished and cleared which would probably be a couple hundred per wheel. Just strip them and spray paint them yourself for now.
6. Unless that left rear wheel has recently been rotated from somewhere else, you've probably got metal on metal, brake pads meeting the rotor on that one. Id address that and all the brakes.
I wouldn't worry about the P0401 code yet, at least until you have to for emissions inspection or something.
Id change oil to Castrol GTX 10w-40 conventional oil with a Toyota filter, or Motorcraft FL-1A.
Run premium fuel for a while, and run it hard. Run some sort of fuel treatment in the tank. Then Id Seafoam it. Injected into throttle body, burn out some carbon.
Then just drive it while going through a process of flushing all fluids and oils address leaks and other concerns as they arise. Top off the PS with Lucas power steering conditioner for the time being.
You’ll get answers all across the board about oil so choose whatever is cheapest or whichever brand you prefer. I personally run mobil1 synthetic high mileage 10w-30 and Toyota oem filters.
As for the P0401 code, I’ve been driving with that code on for 4 years now
INCREDIBLY rust free underneath for rust belt vehicle. Had to have come from way out of the region. cherish that.
Use the oil that is listed on your Oil Fill cap.
My 96 calls for 5W-30. I use Quaker State 5W-30 regular oil. I use a Toyota filter (Don't use Wix or Napa Gold) I regularly get a Blackstone oil analysis to track the health of my engine. Per their information, I can run about 6-7000 miles between oil changes. My truck is a DD of about 20K per year. I do not need to add any oil to it between oil changes, as it has minimal leaks and does not burn any. It is almost ready to roll up to 298K.
Also consider changing your radiator cap (check your coolant. It should be RED or GREEN, nothing else. If it's brown, flush it ASAP), your PS cap, your gas cap and your oil fill cap. They all have seals on them that are probably hard as a brick.
My 96 calls for 5W-30. I use Quaker State 5W-30 regular oil. I use a Toyota filter (Don't use Wix or Napa Gold) I regularly get a Blackstone oil analysis to track the health of my engine. Per their information, I can run about 6-7000 miles between oil changes. My truck is a DD of about 20K per year. I do not need to add any oil to it between oil changes, as it has minimal leaks and does not burn any. It is almost ready to roll up to 298K.
Also consider changing your radiator cap (check your coolant. It should be RED or GREEN, nothing else. If it's brown, flush it ASAP), your PS cap, your gas cap and your oil fill cap. They all have seals on them that are probably hard as a brick.
- Thread starter
- #52
Called my service advisor at the local Toyota dealership and gave him the VIN# for this L.C and he was able to pull up some records for a few yrs, but nothing more than that. After I got off work, I called the guy I bought it from and asked if by any chance had any service records, and he said he didn't. So after getting home, I paid for a CarFax and here is what I found out.
- 4 owner vehicle
-This L.C. spent the first 10yrs of it's life as a fleet vehicle in Santa Monica, and Santa Clara, CA (Owner's 1& 2)
-Came to IN and was purchased by owner 3 in January 2007. Was titled in IL for a few yrs.
- Was involved in a left rear accident, in 2008. That accident deployed the driver side airbag.
- In 2011, was involved in another accident to the front left side.
- Owner 4 bought the vehicle in May 2017.
- In May 2019, owner 4 took her to Car X for an Oil change. Car X entered the wrong mileage off the odometer into the computer, and it's showing on CarFax as mileage inconsistency.
Other than that, no records.
- 4 owner vehicle
-This L.C. spent the first 10yrs of it's life as a fleet vehicle in Santa Monica, and Santa Clara, CA (Owner's 1& 2)
-Came to IN and was purchased by owner 3 in January 2007. Was titled in IL for a few yrs.
- Was involved in a left rear accident, in 2008. That accident deployed the driver side airbag.
- In 2011, was involved in another accident to the front left side.
- Owner 4 bought the vehicle in May 2017.
- In May 2019, owner 4 took her to Car X for an Oil change. Car X entered the wrong mileage off the odometer into the computer, and it's showing on CarFax as mileage inconsistency.
Other than that, no records.
eimkeith
Supporting Vendor
holy s***!
Dammit! Looks like I need to stalk Facebook marketplace.....
Nice score!
Nice score!
- Thread starter
- #56
Yeah. But did you see my post about what I found out via CarFax? Lol
If you're unhappy with the history and want to double your money sell it here for $2K.
Sold! My daughter wants one for her first car and to haul around all of her tack.
doesn’t look like anything too crazy to me besides the power steering issues. Consider rebuilding or replacing the power steering pump and then replacing the low and high pressure hoses. lot of good stuff on the wit’s end website
- Thread starter
- #60
Oh I'm not saying I'm unhappy. I was just sharing what I found out via CarFax.