Marker/Signal Wiring Question

[Playboater]

After a close call with a driver who said he didn't see my turn signal , I've decided to do the Marker Light mod. I'm going to replace the existing socket with a 90 degree 1157 socket I bought at O'Reilly, Calterm 08582. My goal is to keep the existing marker light function with the addition of the signal light function. I have hardly any electrical experience and none with automotive electrical applications, but I've decided to take Slee's advice and use it as a tool to learn about the vehicle, or else ask someone who knows to do it.

On that note, I'm not exactly sure which turn signal line I tie each line from the signal to and which line ties in with the existing marker light. Does anyone have a diagram for this? I've read for the ARB bumper that you use the brown and green lines(I think) but I don't know which goes to which. The socket has three lines (white, brown, black)

I also read on a Heep site that I should use a relay somewhere, otherwise I will overheat the wires. They weren't exact on where to put it, so that's why I felt like I should ask if I even needed one.

I'm also not exactly sure how the best way to tie it in is either. I've soldered once a long time ago, and this might be a fun practice, or would "scotch locks" work just as well?

I'd also like to keep the signals blinking at the same time, and not with the alternating "disco" effect. Would this involve an upgraded flasher?

I've been researching this for awhile and all I've seen is suggestions for Slee's modification, swapping the turn signal and marker lights, or alluding to this mod. I plan on posting a writeup and pictures of this mod once I've completed it.

 

[97 FZJ80]

You might need to trim either the light housing or the light socket in order for them to fit together properly.

The only socket I've found that is a direct fit without mods to the housing is the OEM gray 1157 front turn signal brakets from other Toyota model (Corolla, etc). The black 1157 sockets used to rear stop/marker light will not fit the front housing without mods.

John

 

[Playboater]

The Calterm sockets don't fit

I checked the calterm sockets today and they don't fit, so I went to a salvage yard and bought the toyota camery black housings, which fit well with very little modification. I'll post pictures tommorow. I'm still working on how to light them up, but I think I might just go with trial and error.

 

[RavenTai]

Never Ever Use Scotchlocks! they are a product for designed for lazy professionals and incompetent laymen.

The left hand turn signal + is green with black stripe,
Right turn signal + is green with yellow stripe,
Parking light + wires are green.
Grounds are white with black

I would go through the junk yard and find plugs that fit the harness side of the 80 then 2 filament sockets that fit the light housings than marry the two harnesses together using solder and heat shrink, then you are not modifying your housings nor original pigtails, you will have full options later down the road if you need to change something.

 

[Playboater]

Awesome idea! I'd put off the cutting until next week thankfully, so I think I'm going to go try and find the grey OEM front sockets from another Toyota, with the harness and the turn signal wire + through there. The marker harness has a place for an extra wire in it with a plug blocking the hole in the rubber seal.

I found this over the weekend: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html

I also went through his list of signal bulbs to see if I could find anything comparable to a 1157 bulb with higher candlepower, but nothing without decreased lifespan. I might try a 3157 socket because you can run a 3157K bulb, which has filament lifespans of 2000/10,000 hours respectively. I've never had to change a burnt out turn signal bulb before, but my goal was to overbuild this, but as cleanly as possible. The other option is a brighter 2357 socket, with a similar filament lifespan to the 1157 (400/5000 hours to 1200/5000 hours) but it also has a higher amp draw.

 

[RavenTai]

personally I would stick with the 1157, the 3157's are a blade base meaning you will have to stock two different base styles for the front and rear of your cruiser,

1157's in both the marker and turn signal should be plenty bright, you front makers will be going from 5w in 2 lights to 8w in 4 lights and your turn signals will be going from 27w in one light to 27 in two lights. Should be plenty without getting into higher watt bulbs.

The stock config, marker lights that do not turn and turn signals that do not mark is annoying.

 

[RavenTai]

here is a start https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1167921

still looking for the other plug.