Manual/Power window regulator confusion

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Mar 2, 2006
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So I'm switching out my manual regulators for power ones and am highly confused. The driver and passenger side manual window regulators have stabilizer arms on opposite sides, but the power regulators I just got from Cruiserparts.net both have the arms on the right side. Is this right?? It looks like the power ones would only fit on the passenger side. Is the bolt pattern for the power ones that different, or do I have two passenger side regulators?

Thanks!
 
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Well you definitely got right & left motors.................maybe just the stabilizer needs to be flipped..........if that's possible...........
 
Regulators are right

I found this pic of another set of power regulators, they look like mine so I assume I've got the right ones. So if the equalizer brackets are on the same side there must be some funky bolting pattern needed to make it work. Help?
 
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Is it non PC to use the word "retard" when referring to oneself? I am retarded. I can't figure this out. Should I be able to use the existing 60 bolt pattern or do I need to drill other holes? If anyone has a diagram of the power window setup from the FSM I would really appreciate a looksee.

Thanks!
 
Southbound said:
Is it non PC to use the word "retard" when referring to oneself? I am retarded. I can't figure this out. Should I be able to use the existing 60 bolt pattern or do I need to drill other holes? If anyone has a diagram of the power window setup from the FSM I would really appreciate a looksee.

Thanks!

I think for when going from manual to power, you'll need to drill. Let me look at the pics from when I had my doors apart for soundproofing and I'll see if I can find one that shows the bolt pattern.
 
Not just yet - I know a lot of people switch from power to manual so maybe there is something about power that truly sucks. I'm going to give it trial period...
 
Southbound said:
Not just yet - I know a lot of people switch from power to manual so maybe there is something about power that truly sucks. I'm going to give it trial period...

They're very slow. I'm actually trying to source a much newer style motor that'd be a quasi-simple bolt-in replacement for the factory motors. I'll probably pull one of mine and go to a junkyard to start comparing motors off of Hondas or newer Heeps (hey, at least their window motors are good).

Still lookin for my pics...
 
Uh oh, like how slow? How long does it take to roll down a window all the way?
 
Southbound said:
Uh oh, like how slow? How long does it take to roll down a window all the way?

After fixing up the harnesses in my doors and lubing everything with white lithium grease, about 4-4.5 seconds. Before that it was 8-9 seconds one way.
 
if you're gonna do power windows make sure to 'waterproof' the motors by having good window felts (rubbers) or the motors will get soaked and will function poorly. my bodyshop guy convinced me that that is why my 80 kept eating window motors... personally, i think toyota's electric window motor design just sucks. my old 62 loved to eat them too.

there is one auto electric shop in town who will rebuild window motors (if you ask real nice and you know someone). this is the option for you guys who are too lazy to lean over and roll 'em down. just keep replacing the blown motors with new or find someone who will rebuild them. of course if it starts raining, and you have manuals, you can lean over and roll 'em up.
 
I wouldn't complain about 4-5 seconds to roll a window down. I would about motors blowing out regularly though. I don't think the design is great on the regulators - it's basicaly just a motor rigged in a not too ideal spot on the same scissor type regulator as the manual. Newer power windows have a more efficient design. But I am impressed wth how burly the Toyota motors are. They may not be fast but they are damn strong, kind of like the fj60. I bet those motors could handle a little higher voltage, maybe 18V or 24V. They'd probably be much quicker with the extra juice.
 
I think I figured it out

I would have never thought to try installing the regulator completely upside down, but apparently that is what needs to happen.
 
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Or maybe just by extending the regulators all the way using the motor the equalizer brackets align correctly. I'll try it when I get back home Monday. Thanks for the help and moral support.
 
Sorry for the wait. The fiance was in town for the weekend and just left (uber depressed now), and we've been away from the base for the majority of the time.

The only good pic I had was of the right side front door. It's not the best, but it'll give you an idea of the bolt pattern in relation to the rest of the door.

FR_Bolts.jpg
 
Thank you Spook.

This really wasn't hard at all despite my initial confusion- just had to flip the equilizer arms over and use the right bolt pattern. No drilling necessary...
 
Southbound said:
Thank you Spook.

This really wasn't hard at all despite my initial confusion- just had to flip the equilizer arms over and use the right bolt pattern. No drilling necessary...

Good to know you didn't have to drill. It's always nice to have the holes already there.
 
Just to understand this...

Are you staing that you installed FJ62 power windows in an FJ60 without modification? I was told that this wouuld not work by someone else on this board - don't remember who as it was quite awhile ago. This is potentially really good news for me as the wife doesn't like stoppping the car and getting out to run around and close all of the windows when it starts raining - especially when she's on the highway. Particularly annoying when you get the rain like we get latlely - downpour for five minutes with hellacious wind and dust and then back to the 90's.

Now I guess that I just need some FJ62 parts as opposed to whole doors!
 
Yup, the power regulators fit perfectly in the 60 doors, just have to orient them correctly. Wiring is a bit of a pain, but no more complicated than installing a car stereo. You can buy a good quality Spal 7 button wiring kit for $60 on Ebay. I'm really happy with the power windows so far.
As long as you're at it you can install power locks too, only 30 bucks for the kit and also not too hard. You'll need to buy a 62 power tailgate lock if you want the tailgate to have power too.
 

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