manifold

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Jan 21, 2008
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Location
escondido california
:hhmm:my long block is on an engine stand. rebuilt and balanced .I took my manifold apart to put in a new heat sheild and gaskets and to clean everything up. I found carbon in the intake manifold. after cleaning off the carbon found there was a crack right in the middle of those ribs on the inside of the intake manifold. the exhaust manifold is'nt looking too good either. all well , i'll just have to save up for a set of new ones. $820 from toyota for my 1985 60 series. My mechanic friend says I should remove that heat activated choke plate thing in the manifold to let the engine breath easier. any comments? thanks mark :beer:
 
I wouldn't remove the plate. it's my understanding that it opens when cold to let the hot exhaust gases get under the intake manifold to pre-heat the incoming gases. When the engine is hot the flap directs the exhaust gases away from the intake. When warm, i don't think it's creating a restriction (gases flow straight through instead of up and around), and without it you might suffer from overheating the incoming gases.
 
:hhmm:my long block is on an engine stand. rebuilt and balanced .I took my manifold apart to put in a new heat sheild and gaskets and to clean everything up. I found carbon in the intake manifold. after cleaning off the carbon found there was a crack right in the middle of those ribs on the inside of the intake manifold. the exhaust manifold is'nt looking too good either. all well , i'll just have to save up for a set of new ones. $820 from toyota for my 1985 60 series. My mechanic friend says I should remove that heat activated choke plate thing in the manifold to let the engine breath easier. any comments? thanks mark :beer:

Very common problem with the intake manifold (crack down the middle of the pendulum), try and find a good used one , otherwise a machine shop could do some welding?

agree with last person, you shouldn't mess with what Toyota set it up with. Be sure to use a tap to clean out all the threads and make sure the four bolts are put in tight (with blue locktight) before putting the carb gaskets on.
 
You should be a ble to get one for the $650 range new, if you decide to go that route, from American Toyota (cruiserdan here on mud). I would try for a used one, though and have it checked out by a machine shop.
 
My 40 had the same crack on the intake. Took it to a welding shop and got it welded. That was 15 years ago.
 
Mark, where are you located ? I'm in So Cal, so I did use a "block off plate" from $OR to lock that butterfly valve in the open position and limit the heat on the intake - hopefully preventing that crack. But if you're in a cold climate, you'd be best to let that valve alone, particularly if you're planning on buying a new one.

I had mine machined and fixed for about $300.

1sttoyotaparts.com lists the manifold assy at $548.36 cruiser dan will be about the same.

Part # 17100-61084 for 9/82-8/87 FJ60

Also note, that if you need to pass smog, that valve has to be intact (or look intact) - and if you don't have to worry about smog, then get a good header.
 

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