Manifold removal and exhaust q's (1 Viewer)

[GA Architect]

I've ordered new seals, but I'm unsure on what to do on the exhaust horns. The right side horn will not budge. I can't get it to twist, or come out. Its like its cemented in. The left side horn twisted easily and came off no problem. I've seen the prices on the rings, and they're pricey! It looks like you need 2 rings and 1 spring per side. Does the spring sit behind the horn as you slide it in? How do the rings help seal it? Are they supposed to expand outward to fill the gap? I'm attaching a picture of my left horn that came out.

Any ideas on what to do on the horn that won't come out? I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet, and even some gentler hits with a hammer.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks

I just removed a set of horns off an extra exhaust manifold tonight that I plan on using on my rebuilt 2F. The springs are under the rings, thus two springs and two rings, each side. Ordered 4 rings & springs from Beno yesterday. As for the stuck horn, try using a large flat-head screw driver or chisel to separate/pry them apart. Maybe squirt some WD-40 or other penetrating oil of your choice on the joint.....

 

[WGermer]

I just removed a set of horns off an extra exhaust manifold tonight that I plan on using on my rebuilt 2F. The springs are under the rings, thus two springs and two rings, each side. Ordered 4 rings & springs from Beno yesterday. As for the stuck horn, try using a large flat-head screw driver or chisel to separate/pry them apart. Maybe squirt some WD-40 or other penetrating oil of your choice on the joint.....

Thanks GA Architect. I'll see if I can pry that horn loose. Does Beno give a discount to mudders?

 

[Bear]

If those exhaust horn/end rings would weld themselves in the right alignment to the rest of the manifold without leaking, you could forget about them. Best to keep soaking them with rust penetrant and carefully tapping with a rubber mallet until they loosen.

Yep, the price of those rings can add up real quick--they really shouldn't cost that much--probably why so many folks don't bother to replace them.

 

[sggoat]

Thanks GA Architect. I'll see if I can pry that horn loose. Does Beno give a discount to mudders?

Yes, he does--and his stuff is OEM--you can't get better than that(most of the time)

 

[cuencanolenny]

Hey guys, I've seen a couple of entries here on thread repair referring to a "timesert." I've never heard of that term. Of course Heli-Coils are O.D./I.D. threads. A Keensert is a cast item, O.D./I.D. thread but with four "prongs" that are driven into parent material after the insert is installed. So I'm just unfamiliar with the "timesert" nomenclature.

With regards to re-use of the valve cover gasket. It gets glued into the valve cover and then you smear yellow wheel bearing grease on the clean cylinder head surface. Also, cast iron does not leave a clean looking threaded hole like steel or aluminum do. Thread your fastener into the hole and wiggle it. If it wiggles, you don't have sufficient thread interface. Install a stud is better than a bolt in that location anyway, but apply some anti-seize compound to the threads and then install. This will prevent the fastener from "welding" itself to the head.

 

[WGermer]

Quick update and questions. I got the manifold back on with remflex gaskets inbetween exhaust and intake, new o-ring between exhaust down pipe, between egr, and big one between head and manifold. Also rebuilt the carb while it was off. I finally get the 40 started, and I see smoke coming off the new gaskets, or at least those areas.

At first I think it's exhaust leaking. But it has more of a chemical smell than exhaust. Also the 40 actually idled after I pushed in the choke where before the tear down it would only run with a lot of choke.

So it seems like it's running better, although I haven't taken it out of the garage yet.

When I turned the engine off, the smoke still was slowly coming off the same gasket areas. This leads me to think its not an exhaust leak.

Is the smoking just a breakin issue that will go away?

Thanks for any ideas.

 

[78fj40mg]

Thanks GA Architect. I'll see if I can pry that horn loose. Does Beno give a discount to mudders?

Yes he does give us a discount, contact him @beno great guy to work with.

 

[Searcher356]

WGermer, your video looks more like something burning off of the exterior of the exhaust manifold. I can't see any oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, but it could be that.
Did you squirt some penetrating oil on the rusty manifold bolts? If you did, that's probably what was smoking at startup.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I would think that an exhaust leak, especially inside of a garage, would be very loud or at least noticeable noise wise. I agree with Searcher, sounds like oil or something burning off the manifold(s). You didn't mention whether you sprayed KopperKote on the gaskets before installation and if so that could be part of it also. Glad your running well and idling well.

 

[WGermer]

Looks like the smoking was just stuff burning off. I've got it back to idling pretty nice, but my vacuum still only shows about 11 at idle, I was hoping it would be much better after the new gaskets.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Well that sounds good and that you are getting closer. That vacuum does sound very low. You mentioned that you rebuilt the carburetor. Did you put a coat of yellow wheel bearing grease on both sides of the gaskets on carburetor insulator?

 

[Searcher356]

Where are you tapping for your vacuum reading?
Various years had different taps - for emission controls etc. Some were manifold vacuum, some were secondary vacuum, and then there's the mystery vacuum port.

 

[WGermer]

Well that sounds good and that you are getting closer. That vacuum does sound very low. You mentioned that you rebuilt the carburetor. Did you put a coat of yellow wheel bearing grease on both sides of the gaskets on carburetor insulator?

I didn't put any grease on the carb gaskets, but I put one gasket between the carb "riser"? (That sits between the carb and the manifold) and then a gasket on top of that for the carb to sit on. I don't know if that's what it's supposed to have, but it seems like I was getting a leak around those areas before the manifold removal.

 

[WGermer]

Where are you tapping for your vacuum reading?
Various years had different taps - for emission controls etc. Some were manifold vacuum, some were secondary vacuum, and then there's the mystery vacuum port.

I was taking the vacuum reading off of the brake booster. Pulled the hose off and put my vacuum gauge on that hose. Is there a better place to pull vacuum from? I want to hook up a vac gauge inside the cab, and I was going to T into a line and run it inside.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I didn't put any grease on the carb gaskets, but I put one gasket between the carb "riser"? (That sits between the carb and the manifold) and then a gasket on top of that for the carb to sit on. I don't know if that's what it's supposed to have, but it seems like I was getting a leak around those areas before the manifold removal.

Yes, those are the two gaskets, one should have one or two holes depending on which carburetor you have, and the lower one at the intake manifold is just a big oblong shape. I have found in the past and also with my 40 that applying a good smear of grease to both sides of both gaskets eliminated a vacuum leak, however slight it may have been.

 

[WGermer]

Yes, those are the two gaskets, one should have one or two holes depending on which carburetor you have, and the lower one at the intake manifold is just a big oblong shape. I have found in the past and also with my 40 that applying a good smear of grease to both sides of both gaskets eliminated a vacuum leak, however slight it may have been.

Yes, it sounds like I put the right gaskets for the carb then. I'll have to use the grease trick next time. Thanks for helping out. I really like the forum as I learn.