Man-a-Fre Birfields for the 80's

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This is what a member of 80's cool said about them - "In England we refer to these items as pattern parts.After a period of time(8 or 10 years) the rights to manufacture and sell parts such as cv joints etc.are passed on to others.The original manufacturer often stops selling these parts altogether. These pattern parts are often made and sold by the original parts maker or machine shop and to the same specs. I ahve used pattern cv joints in many applications including my 4Runner and my 80 and have had no problems. I think we all recognise the overall quality of genuine Toy parts but I would certainly try these parts.If you are still concerned then why not contact Man a fre directly and ask them what warranty they will give?
Dave Harris callanish.moon@virgin.net HDJ 80 '94 UK" Anyone on this site tried them? Aren't these $400 cheaper a side than Toyota OEM?
 
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DON'T GET THE MAF birfields. The abs ring from your birfield doesn't fit. They did give me my $$$ back. I almost broke my ring trying to get them on. Good thing I didn't brake them as they kant be had new.
Go with the Newfields for a little more $$$ and they have life time warranty,
from CVunlimited
 
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Ok, I am going to try these... I just can't see parting with $800 for some CV Joints. Possibly if they were some super duper 300M units... I might go for it. If I need to machine the ABS ring to fit, so be it. Not much crap comes out of Japan, and that is where these are made, so I will wager they are a high qaulity piece... Oh, the guy on the phone let it slip that they source them from Oz. Maybe we need to seach down there? Paying $190 for a part worth under $100 dosn't make me happy, either. :D
 
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One thing about the MAF birfield is that when I did get the ring on with a big hammer it would slide right off.
I don't know why it was so hard to get the ring on to have it fall off.
Good luck, the ones I got were covered with a toilet paper like covering. It was stuck on hard, getting it all off would require pulling the birfield apart.
 
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I would not buy the MAFs. Even with a warranty, what good will that do when you're stuck on the trail on a Sat or Sun afternoon. Do it right with OEM quality or at least with something more legit. Then again, if you don't mind blowing $400 on a hunch, then more power to ya.
 
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Well, there is no info pertaining to the part being of sub standard quality.... as mentioned above, it comes from Japan = good stuff, the dang island is to small to have space to spew out substandard junk. :flipoff2:
 

semlin

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Brian is this for a trail spare or for a replacement right now? If the latter I say go for it and see how they do. Hard to believe MAF would sell birfs that still don't fit after landtoy's experience. If a trail spare thoughl, I would be concerned about whether it would fit when the chips were down. Buy a used OEM one from a wrecker. It will fit and get you home and may turn out to be in good condition.
 
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These will be for replacement as 4 of the 5 CV joints in my collection have a teency bit of play between the inner cage/balls/outer cage. There is no reason to install a worn out factory part that WILL fail on top of the mountain at 1:00AM Sunday morning. Made in Japan has me sold. Thanks!
 
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The Man-a-fre joints are manufactured by URW. They are a division of Matsui Univeral Joint Corp. Japan. Right off one can see that there are no blue/brown heat treating spots. There is however, a greyish hue to on much of the unit, perhaps the whole thing has a lighter heat treating... less hard? Pure speculation on my part.

Upon further inspection the 6 balls are a tad smaller in diameter than the OEM Toyota piece. At first this leads me to think the unit is inferior, larger balls will obviously create a longer wearing joint. However, this places more material in the bell and the inner race, which would make those stronger, yes? From what I have seen, the balls are never an issue when a CV Joint blows, the bell or inner race usually blows. Again, speculation...

Please have it!

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landtank

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To fix the ABS ring in place you would want to use some Loctite 272. We use this all the time at work to fix gears to shafts and to assemble gearboxes. The stuff is quite durable, hasn't failed yet, and on disassembly you would first heat the ring with a common bernzo matic torch until you see smoke rising. This causes the locktite to crystalize and the ring can then be removed. Just be sure to wash down both parts with 91% isopropyl alchohol first. 91% is important because it contains less water than the 70%. As for the smaller balls I'd think that they would wear faster from having a smaller radious, less flat, surface but not sure.
 

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[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=9200;start=msg115821#msg115821 date=1078517044]
To fix the ABS ring in place you would want to use some Loctite 272. We use this all the time at work to fix gears to shafts and to assemble gearboxes. The stuff is quite durable, hasn't failed yet, and on disassembly you would first heat the ring with a common bernzo matic torch until you see smoke rising. This causes the locktite to crystalize and the ring can then be removed. Just be sure to wash down both parts with 91% isopropyl alchohol first. 91% is important because it contains less water than the 70%. As for the smaller balls I'd think that they would wear faster from having a smaller radious, less flat, surface but not sure.
[/quote]

If the gap is large, Loctite 620 might be an option as well. I used that on some spinning races on the cheap hubs of my boat trailer and worked real good. I think I paid $20 for a small bottle.
 

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