M101A1, 2, 3 Bed Weight Comparison

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bap5340

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I'm looking to build an M101 trailer. My desire is for the A3 with the wider spacing between the wheel wells, but am sensitive to overall weight. I have not seen a weight published for the different bed sizes (76" vs 100").

Does anyone have the figures on the weight of the two different beds?

Has anyone fabricated a new frame that helps save weight, yet still be rugged enough for light off-road use (perhaps box frame vs C-channel)? I am already planning on going with an axle such as a Dexter 3500# with electric brakes and parking brake.

There are a couple of leads here in the Phoenix area and auctions coming up in the Southwest.

Thoughts?

Very Respectfully,

Bruce
 
I have all three M101 styles and I'm not sure where you are measuring? The length is the same ( I thought anyway ), just the wheelwells are different. I like the A3 axle with the center bump up. Best weight reduction is removing the surge brake. My Son tows one loaded for camping with his Xterra and no problems.
 
scrapdaddy said:
I have all three M101 styles and I'm not sure where you are measuring? The length is the same ( I thought anyway ), just the wheelwells are different. I like the A3 axle with the center bump up. Best weight reduction is removing the surge brake. My Son tows one loaded for camping with his Xterra and no problems.
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I thought they were the same also until I went to Steel Soldiers and found that there were actually two sizes of bed. One was 76" and the other was 100". If you look at photos of different trailers, you can see additional supports on some of the trailer bodies. One member referred to the M101 series as "M101 Salad" as there are several configurations and sub-configurations.
 
I just went out in the rain to measure. :) All M101s I have are the same 96 inches inside bed. The extra supports are on the newer ones, that had lifting hoops added. My 1953 M101 doesn't those or brakes. The salad thing kinda means they put A2 bodies on A3 frames, etc. I have two of those. The A3 trailers were made wider to match the Humvee's width. The A3's have a crank down front landing leg, which I really like. My older ones don't have that and are a pain to get on and off the truck hitch.

I would look for a A3 model, if you see the axle bump up, you might decide to keep it. I'll look for a picture. Here's an A3.

IMG_1596.webp


IMG_1597.webp
 
Based on your original post discussing an axle swap and possible frame swap why don't you just build a trailer from scratch? At that point your half there already.

I have a 101a-1. Swapping the axle, wheels, and tires would save some weight. My ID plate lists mine at 1325lbs empty.
 
Vic at Bear Trailersports is putting together a proposal of a new build of a trailer slightly larger than the Tailgater he produces. This thread is one of a few options I am pursuing (new build, modification of an M101, or XVenture). There are a ton of options. As with anything we want all the capability, but look to manage weigh and cost.
 
Curious as to why you would replace the standard surge brakes(even with the wt reduction) They are pretty much fail-safe mechanical-no electronics to fail--no wiring-no corrosion prone connectors--simple, and easy to service.
 
sggoat said:
Curious as to why you would replace the standard surge brakes(even with the wt reduction) They are pretty much fail-safe mechanical-no electronics to fail--no wiring-no corrosion prone connectors--simple, and easy to service.
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Was this directed at me? If so my 101 does not have surge brakes, just hand operated parking brakes. Swapping out the heavy split rims and related assemblies would worth while to save the weight. Plus the ability to run a matching rim/tire allows the truck spare to work on the trailer too. I have the wheels and tires ready to go. Just need to order a 5000lb axle with 6 bolt hub. Thinking I'll do electric brakes too.
 
This was meant for bap5340-seems he would replace the surge brakes for electric--my .02
 
Brad,

If you don't mind, how do you like towing the loaded M101 with your FJ? Any problems on trails, etc. I'll be setting up one of mine for my 55 and could use any feed back.

Thanks,

Ron
 
A lot of this is covered in my build thread linked above but the axle width has it tracking in the exact same width as my FJC. I use the LockNRoll hitches when off road so never any binding there. The trailer will go anywhere my FJ goes. The FJC is not what I would call a superb tow rig but it tows the trailer fine with the top off, with the top on it has to work a little harder simply because it's like pulling a ginormous box....that catches wind. Just pull it out of OD and go and it will do the trick.

I have hauled up to 2000lbs of our bumpers in the trailer, river rock, firewood and it does so with ease. Much more than a gross of 3000lbs (trailer and load) and I'd want brakes on the trailer which it does not have now.... more for emergency stops, etc.

The trailer is no wider than the FJ and at less than a 1000lbs empty with no sides or top (my normal setup) and a typical load of 5-800lbs of gear for excursions and you don't even know it's back there.

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Last Spring I added some more tie down points and airline track down the sides which was a great mod.

IMG_20140426_120112_910.jpg


IMG_20140426_120059_863.jpg
 
sggoat said:
Curious as to why you would replace the standard surge brakes(even with the wt reduction) They are pretty much fail-safe mechanical-no electronics to fail--no wiring-no corrosion prone connectors--simple, and easy to service.
Click to expand...

The only legitimate reason why you'd want to remove your surge brakes is because backing up the trailer, uphill, with a heavy load (in the trailer), causes the surge brakes to activate. I got myself stuck when attempting to turn the trailer around with a couple thousand pounds of granite in the trailer because I couldn't back up.

Other than that, I love the surge brakes on my M101A3.

IIRC the data available pegs the M101A3 at ~1400# empty with sides, bows and top.
 
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Regarding surge brakes.

1. The surge brake system is a ton of weight on the nose of the trailer. The landing leg is a PITA and a chunk of steel as well. Keep in mind that on the FJC that max tongue weight is 500lbs and you are taking a 100lb+ hit right off the bat with this equipment before you ever load anything in the trailer, plus it's a PITA to move around by hand too. I also wanted to add an adjustable hitch channel as these trailers are quite tall and not everything I might want to pull it with is as tall as my FJ (my wife's VW Touareg TDI for example). This precludes the use of the surge brake system for sure.

2. The 3/4 ton axle is not only overkill for a 3500lb rated trailer but the brakes, steel wheels are all very heavy.

3. I wanted a custom axle so I could run FJ wheels too.

I was not happy with the military lunette nor the surge brake system especially when it was unloaded. If I were taking heavy loads cross country and pulling it with an H1 as the military does then it would be a different story.

The M101A2 is listed as 1340lbs empty so you can see how I got to under 1000lbs very easily by doing all of this.

So, those were my 'legitimate' reasons for removing everything and it turned out just as I needed it, others may not care.
 
Weight, got it.

USOffRoad said:
The M101A2 is listed as 1340lbs empty so you can see how I got to under 1000lbs very easily by doing all of this.
Click to expand...

Do you have a reference for this number?

EDIT: I realized that the empty weight is on the data plate. I've got to check my plate when I'm home later.
 
Awesome references, thank you!

It looks like that's the weight of the empty trailer without sides, bows or a canvas top, correct?
 
No, I think that is actually with the sides and top as it doesn't differentiate otherwise in the TM. 1340lbs is what I've always understood the trailer to weigh with all of it's issued equipment, sides and top, etc. It makes sense as mine weighed 940ish on the scales without those items a few months ago...without sides, bows or top, and since I had ditched the surge brakes, landing leg and axle that would be about right.

The sides, front and rear gates are fiberglass but not light and the top with bows isn't a cotton ball either.

Typically, if one is building a trail trailer (is that redundant?) they probably won't have the top on it unless they like snagging tree limbs, etc. but again..that's just me.

One other thing... I have a design for some adjustable height tarp bows so you can use a low profile tarp without the sides and also use them to mount a RTT. If I can get the prototypes built, which I will in the next month or so, then I'll be offering them through our store.
 
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