lx570 brembo brakes? (1 Viewer)

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There's an '11 LX I'm considering. Looks like clean carfax. Pretty low miles for the year.

Has a Brembo brake kit though and to me that may be red flag. I'm not finding much on-line with actual experience with it this kit.

Any one with experience with it. Looks like if it's the GT model just the parts are $4k-$5k.
LX570 brembo.jpg


I haven't driven it yet and looked over, just doing my due diligence on what looks like the only visible mod in the for-sale photos.
 
Looks like the BigBrakeKit.. The one downside is you won't be able to run 17s if you intended on dropping to 17s and having meater sidewall.
 
Looks like the BigBrakeKit.. The one downside is you won't be able to run 17s if you intended on dropping to 17s and having meater sidewall.
Yes, good point - hadn't thought that far and not knowledgeable in 200 series enough but I would have been planning looking at Tundra 17's
Thank you!
I may pass on this one.
 
Looks like the BigBrakeKit.. The one downside is you won't be able to run 17s if you intended on dropping to 17s and having meater sidewall.
Can't even run 18s.
 
Brembo makes great brakes for stopping, but there installation alone clearly indicates how the previous owner viewed driving...

Probably not grandma's LX...
 
I'd personally love a set of Brembos, and the BFG AT KO2 in 275/65/20 which is basically a 34"x11" tire works perfect on the LX stock. If everything else checks out and you don't care about running smaller wheels, I wouldn't let that stop you. If someone is willing to drop that kind of coin on the brakes, my guess is they're a gearhead and probably took good care of the truck. I wouldn't be surprised if the prior owner is a P car guy which is a very common stablemate in the 200 series world if the "what is your other car" thread is any indication.
 
They could be fake covers. Might pull a wheel and check for sure that they are genuine.

 
Rotors appear much larger than stock, especially pre-2016, so I don’t think these are covers.
 
Brembo makes great brakes for stopping, but there installation alone clearly indicates how the previous owner viewed driving...

Probably not grandma's LX...

Personally, i rather see Brembo on a used LX than one with BFG KOs and/or lift. Being it is an LX/LC, even a Fast & Furious driver can't really do anything other than go slow on-road. :D So, the chances of them trashing the LX on-road is minimal (if everything else check out OK).

There's an '11 LX I'm considering. Looks like clean carfax. Pretty low miles for the year.

Has a Brembo brake kit though and to me that may be red flag. I'm not finding much on-line with actual experience with it this kit.

Any one with experience with it. Looks like if it's the GT model just the parts are $4k-$5k.

I haven't driven it yet and looked over, just doing my due diligence on what looks like the only visible mod in the for-sale photos.

Even though you cannot use a high profile tire (with smaller rims), the more potent Brembro brakes will allow you to handle braking duties better IF you decide to add heavy hardware to your LX later (winch, bumpers, sliders, etc.).
 
Have the rears been upgraded too? If not it is no longer a balanced system.

Also I’m not sure we can assume a brake system originally designed for high performance road use will handle off-road conditions well. Things like gravel and mud can cause problems with brakes not designed for them.

OEM rotors and TRD pads or many of the higher performance metallic options work very well even with additional weight, allow better off-road tire/wheel selection, and shouldn’t have the potential reliability problems.

Unless you are trying to copy the 200-mph 200... which is a worthy goal. But put brembos on the back too if you are.
 
Have the rears been upgraded too? If not it is no longer a balanced system.

Also I’m not sure we can assume a brake system originally designed for high performance road use will handle off-road conditions well. Things like gravel and mud can cause problems with brakes not designed for them.

OEM rotors and TRD pads or many of the higher performance metallic options work very well even with additional weight, allow better off-road tire/wheel selection, and shouldn’t have the potential reliability problems.

Unless you are trying to copy the 200-mph 200... which is a worthy goal. But put brembos on the back too if you are.

Checking...
Looks like just the fronts. Back breaks look stock.

Looks like a 3 owner vehicle all in Florida. Lower mileage - less then 15k a year. No wrecks.
Everything else looks stock. Interior and exterior look very clean. Need to check for signs of rust or other wear but guessing this was garage kept.
 
Have the rears been upgraded too? If not it is no longer a balanced system.

FWIW, when I did some brake upgrades, Alcon recommended I only replace the front brakes on a stock truck. Seems that front and rear provides too much force.
 
Checking...
Looks like just the fronts. Back breaks look stock.

Looks like a 3 owner vehicle all in Florida. Lower mileage - less then 15k a year. No wrecks.
Everything else looks stock. Interior and exterior look very clean. Need to check for signs of rust or other wear but guessing this was garage kept.
Not sure how much time you’ve spent in this section but some people have chronic issues with pulsating brakes, more commonly but incorrectly called warped rotors. IMO this is more a function of how the vehicle is treated on top of the physics (6000# suv, often driven like an accord), than a “brakes aren’t big enough” design problem.
It is plausible the owner upgraded the front brakes in an attempt to address that. Service history may give some insight.. if there were very frequent brake changes and mentions of warped rotors.
As mentioned this is a very expensive kit so either they had some money to burn or were trying to solve a problem, real or imagined.
FWIW, when I did some brake upgrades, Alcon recommended I only replace the front brakes on a stock truck. Seems that front and rear provides too much force.
That’s an interesting detail, and Alcon is an authority. For me it wouldn’t be as much about force as fade resistance. Doubling your rotor mass in front but leaving the rear stock seems dodgy. Plus force applied to the brakes is partly a function of master cylinder vs caliper piston surface area.. a well designed system should match the stock front/rear piston ratios and therefore brake bias.
 
Not sure how much time you’ve spent in this section but some people have chronic issues with pulsating brakes, more commonly but incorrectly called warped rotors. IMO this is more a function of how the vehicle is treated on top of the physics (6000# suv, often driven like an accord), than a “brakes aren’t big enough” design problem.
It is plausible the owner upgraded the front brakes in an attempt to address that. Service history may give some insight.. if there were very frequent brake changes and mentions of warped rotors.
As mentioned this is a very expensive kit so either they had some money to burn or were trying to solve a problem, real or imagined.

That’s an interesting detail, and Alcon is an authority. For me it wouldn’t be as much about force as fade resistance. Doubling your rotor mass in front but leaving the rear stock seems dodgy. Plus force applied to the brakes is partly a function of master cylinder vs caliper piston surface area.. a well designed system should match the stock front/rear piston ratios and therefore brake bias.

Spent some time on this forum but more looking at the photos of different builds - less on some of the maintenance particulars. Will be reading more though as I"m looking around ;)

I did find the Brembo GT Big Brake is $4699 kit for front and $4411 for rear - two separate kits.
 
I'd happily take those off your hands. I'll toss in the labor to return them to stock. :)

Front only BBKs are a common upgrade for many vehicles and I've done them before on other rides. The physical size and appearance is not what dictates bias. Piston sizes internally to the caliper are sized during the development to maintain proper front to rear bias for short and stable stops.

BBKs primary advantages are two fold. Physically larger rotor, pads, and brake caliper for firmer pedal and modulation in braking performance. Additional heat and heat shedding capacity to maintain that performance over repeat brake applications.

As the front does the lions share of braking, that's where the added heat capacity can really pay off.

Nothing about the stock brake calipers are special for off-roading which should say that these Brembos should perform fine in that environment too.
 
Piston dust seals would be my primary concern, but the simple fact that toyota actually extensively tested the OE brake system in the environments we see, and that wasn’t necessarily done with something developed originally for the street says a lot.

Do these kits even come with backing plates large enough to protect such a large rotor?
 
Question......just wondering.....with this Brembo kit (for example), does it interfere with normal operation of CRAWL? Is the “clamping” force/pressure of the calipers different from OEM?
 
The system has rear led fade... The rear runs hotter and overheats before the front. This causes the front to have to take on more of the job, which then pushes it past the limit, and then it over heats.
 
Question......just wondering.....with this Brembo kit (for example), does it interfere with normal operation of CRAWL? Is the “clamping” force/pressure of the calipers different from OEM?
If the brakes operate anything like a stock setup, which they’d pretty much have to to not have big liability issues, I’d think it would work fine.
Plus, fundamental to crawl operation is the system’s ability to quickly detect what is going on with each wheel and respond accordingly. I’m sure crawl is programmed to expect a certain amount of response from a given brake application pressure/amount, but with the differing traction states (among many other variables) it would have to be able to adapt if things didn’t go exactly as predicted. So even if hypothetically these brakes provided 50% more torque for a given pressure (I seriously doubt it’s that much) crawl should sense the premature lockup and adjust.
Lots of assumptions here, but I don’t see how it would work at all if it couldn’t adapt in real time.
 

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