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If it is the immobilizer it will still crank, or turn the engine. It just won't start. If it is no crank at all my guess is a bad connection or a fusible link.OP mentioned no crank and no start. Immobilizer should not be an issue (yet).
Hmm well if thats the case then it shouldn't be an immobilizer issue regardless as the starter does not even turn. I do get the relays to click, but no starter click. I doubt that really helps to narrow it down though. I live in an apartment so I might need to find a shop to do some diagnostics on it to figure out what the issue isSee @flintknapper post above for the immobilizer light.
If you have a master key, as soon as you insert in to the ignition that light will go out.
If you have a VALET key, the light will go out a second or two after you insert the key.
If you insert the key into the ignition and nothing happens (light stays on or blinks) then the key is unrecognized and will not allow the vehicle to start. Note that it will crank over but it will never actually "catch".
CorrectOP mentioned no crank and no start. Immobilizer should not be an issue (yet).
Yeah, I am guessing it would be some sort of connection issue. If it was a bad CPS, would that prevent the starter from turning? If not, then it shouldn't be a CPS issue eitherIf it is the immobilizer it will still crank, or turn the engine. It just won't start. If it is no crank at all my guess is a bad connection or a fusible link.
No, it won't keep the starter from turning. If it were me I would start at the fusible links and fuses.Yeah, I am guessing it would be some sort of connection issue. If it was a bad CPS, would that prevent the starter from turning? If not, then it shouldn't be a CPS issue either
Good call. I'll check from under the engine, got tied up with work today so there isn' much light left but I'll take a peek and se what I can find out.Fuel, spark, air. Begin checking.
Re: crank position sensor - I had a situation where I was getting random stalls, but it would start back up. Turns out the last time the timing belt was done the shop didn’t route the wire back correctly and the belt started slicing into the wire.
Here’s a photo of the front of the engine from @2001LC that shows where the wire should tuck behind the bracket and down “into” the engine, and then pop out on the bottom left and wrap up to the sensor spot. You might see if it got disconnected while they were working on it at the plug in spot. Obviously, no sensor = no crank.
Update: Potential Culprit Found? —> 2000 LC Dies, Battery, Check Engine, AT Oil Temp Lights
Bumping this back up. Anyone else have thoughts on what I can be testing this weekend?forum.ih8mud.com
Start with the simple things first: check the plug, check your wiring, check your battery terminals - are the wires really clamped down, check your ground, etc.
Edit: might be easier to see from under the engine — it’s right above the oil sending unit.
Good catch, didnt think of that. Any idea where its located?Just to toss the idea out there - neutral safety switch?
Good catch, didnt think of that. Any idea where its located?