LX470 LC100 Electronic Key and Interior Door Lock Button Stopped Working

[doober]

Hi all, had a strange thing happen yesterday. All of a sudden, my electronic keys for my '02 LX470 stopped working.... but ONLY the lock feature, the unlock works consistently. It's hit or miss... I'd say 1 out of 5 times it locks from the key. I'm fairly certain this isn't a low key battery issue, because my interior door locks have stopped working too. However it's the same behavior. On the driver's and passenger's door, I can unlock the vehicle whenever, but I cannot lock it using the buttons. Same thing, it works like 1/5 times. It seems to me there may be a bad electrical connection somewhere within the car preventing it from locking. I am super unfamiliar with door locking systems generally, so I thought I'd reach out for some help. It seems like some central system is on the fritz, considering that the key lock and the interior door lock switch don't work (only the lock)... Would appreciate any help.

 

[scoutdog]

In the same boat here, except on a '99 LX470.

Keyfob and the button located on the armrest panel will both unlock the doors, every time.

However, neither the keyfob nor the button will lock any of the doors, including the tailgate.

With both methods, I can hear the relay in the passenger kick panel cycle.

I've tested the door switches (courtesy light check), and it does not appear to think that there is a door open. In fact, I can hit lock on the keyfob with any door open, and a long beep will sound.

I intend to start by replacing the lock relay in the passenger kick panel, unless anyone can advise otherwise?

 

[clrussell]

I had the same issue although no unlock and would lock.

Replacing the relay in the driver kick panel fixed my problem.

There is one fir lock and another fir unlock

 

[doober]

In the same boat here, except on a '99 LX470.

Keyfob and the button located on the armrest panel will both unlock the doors, every time.

However, neither the keyfob nor the button will lock any of the doors, including the tailgate.

With both methods, I can hear the relay in the passenger kick panel cycle.

I've tested the door switches (courtesy light check), and it does not appear to think that there is a door open. In fact, I can hit lock on the keyfob with any door open, and a long beep will sound.

I intend to start by replacing the lock relay in the passenger kick panel, unless anyone can advise otherwise?

Yep, exact same behavior. Also for me, the trim around the window up/down buttons is also loose. Maybe that played a role in loosening something, not sure. I can also hear the relay clicking. Can you share part #'s for the drivers and passenger relay if you know them? Thanks!

 

[doober]

I had the same issue although no unlock and would lock.

Replacing the relay in the driver kick panel fixed my problem.

There is one fir lock and another fir unlock

Great to know, any chance you can share part # for the lock relay on both sides?

Since the lock button on both the passenger and drivers side don't work, do you think I need to replace both relays? Although this makes me think my issue is due to a shared part between the doors..

 

[clrussell]

Great to know, any chance you can share part # for the lock relay on both sides?

Since the lock button on both the passenger and drivers side don't work, do you think I need to replace both relays? Although this makes me think my issue is due to a shared part between the doors..

One lock and one un lock relay control the entire rig. The switches all feed the same circuit.

Ry612 is the part number I used to get a relay from my local Orilley. They had them in stock.

 

[clrussell]

I could also hear my relay clicking. The contact area was just flat gone worn out.

Yep, exact same behavior. Also for me, the trim around the window up/down buttons is also loose. Maybe that played a role in loosening something, not sure. I can also hear the relay clicking. Can you share part #'s for the drivers and passenger relay if you know them? Thanks!

 

[clrussell]

I pulled mine apart and this is what it looked like.

 

[scoutdog]

So I just fixed mine. Toyota wanted $78/each per relay, and had to special order them, so I picked up an "Echlin" replacement from Napa.

Remove the dead pedal, then the kick panel cover. There are 3 10mm nuts that hold the large white piece (pictured below) in place. I used an automotive trim remover to pop the loom retainer pins out of the white panel, and unplugged all of the lower connectors. The yellow connectors higher up on the panel I left in place.

With the wiring mostly out of the way, I pulled the white panel towards the pedals from the bottom. This gave me enough room to reach in and remove both relays (lock and unlock).

The lock relay wasn't in terrible shape like the one pictured above, but definitely was worse for wear. The unlock relay (that still worked) had some carbon buildup that I cleaned up with a brass brush after removing its cover with a small pick. I also removed and inspected the relay labeled below as "D/L (DU) Relay", but it looked like the internal connector was in fine shape.

R&R relays, plug connectors back in (make sure you get all of them), reinstall the 3 10mm nuts, and snap the loom retainers back into place.

Works great now and was an easy task. Milwuakee 1/4" drive electric ratchet is a must-have for any automotive job.

 

[medtro]

I've tested the door switches (courtesy light check), and it does not appear to think that there is a door open. In fact, I can hit lock on the keyfob with any door open, and a long beep will sound.

I am trying to understand what you said here. I don't have any lock/unlock problem, if I hit the lock button on the key fob with any door open, I will get a long beep sound. How does the long beep sound relate to your relay problem?

 

[doober]

So I just fixed mine. Toyota wanted $78/each per relay, and had to special order them, so I picked up an "Echlin" replacement from Napa.

Remove the dead pedal, then the kick panel cover. There are 3 10mm nuts that hold the large white piece (pictured below) in place. I used an automotive trim remover to pop the loom retainer pins out of the white panel, and unplugged all of the lower connectors. The yellow connectors higher up on the panel I left in place.

With the wiring mostly out of the way, I pulled the white panel towards the pedals from the bottom. This gave me enough room to reach in and remove both relays (lock and unlock).

The lock relay wasn't in terrible shape like the one pictured above, but definitely was worse for wear. The unlock relay (that still worked) had some carbon buildup that I cleaned up with a brass brush after removing its cover with a small pick. I also removed and inspected the relay labeled below as "D/L (DU) Relay", but it looked like the internal connector was in fine shape.

R&R relays, plug connectors back in (make sure you get all of them), reinstall the 3 10mm nuts, and snap the loom retainers back into place.

Works great now and was an easy task. Milwuakee 1/4" drive electric ratchet is a must-have for any automotive job.

View attachment 2870608

Might attempt this this weekend. So the first few steps are fairly similar in regards to getting to the fuse box down there? Seems simple enough…

 

[scoutdog]

I am trying to understand what you said here. I don't have any lock/unlock problem, if I hit the lock button on the key fob with any door open, I will get a long beep sound. How does the long beep sound relate to your relay problem?

This test rules out a door open switch from being a potential source of a locking issue.

 

[doober]

I pulled mine apart and this is what it looked like.

View attachment 2870451

This was a RY612 5-pin relay? 20A? Referencing the method below… just want to make sure.

 

[clrussell]

This was a RY612 5-pin relay? 20A? Referencing the method below… just want to make sure.

Yes that is correct.

 

[doober]

So I just fixed mine. Toyota wanted $78/each per relay, and had to special order them, so I picked up an "Echlin" replacement from Napa.

Remove the dead pedal, then the kick panel cover. There are 3 10mm nuts that hold the large white piece (pictured below) in place. I used an automotive trim remover to pop the loom retainer pins out of the white panel, and unplugged all of the lower connectors. The yellow connectors higher up on the panel I left in place.

With the wiring mostly out of the way, I pulled the white panel towards the pedals from the bottom. This gave me enough room to reach in and remove both relays (lock and unlock).

The lock relay wasn't in terrible shape like the one pictured above, but definitely was worse for wear. The unlock relay (that still worked) had some carbon buildup that I cleaned up with a brass brush after removing its cover with a small pick. I also removed and inspected the relay labeled below as "D/L (DU) Relay", but it looked like the internal connector was in fine shape.

R&R relays, plug connectors back in (make sure you get all of them), reinstall the 3 10mm nuts, and snap the loom retainers back into place.

Works great now and was an easy task. Milwuakee 1/4" drive electric ratchet is a must-have for any automotive job.

View attachment 2870608

If I may, Just took off my kick panel and got a view of this. Photo attached. Did you have to disconnect all connectors? And then it's inside the white panel?

 

[clrussell]

If I may, Just took off my kick panel and got a view of this. Photo attached. Did you have to disconnect all connectors? And then it's inside the white panel?

View attachment 2885494

There’s 2-3 10mm nuts holding that to the body. The relays are on the back side.

 

[doober]

I finished the job, RY612 on the lock relay was the issue. That was quite a PITA, what an awful area to reach into (don’t do this with a sprained right elbow like I did). Hopefully this thread is useful to someone else going forward.

 

[2K5LC100]

Just attempted this...found out many hours later 2003-2007 models do not have these relays. Took the whole junction/fuse box out and there were only 4 relays on the back. Thought I was crazy and even disassembled passenger side. Almost got blower assembly out and was able to stick my hand in to try to feel for relays...nope.

My 05 does not unlock from remote or switches. Driver's door works from both remote + driver door switches but the rest of doors including lift gate does not unlock. I do hear a tick as button is pressed, right in the area where the relays should be...just stumped how there's no documentation where or how to access in an 05.

 

[gordo172]

So I just fixed mine. Toyota wanted $78/each per relay, and had to special order them, so I picked up an "Echlin" replacement from Napa.

Remove the dead pedal, then the kick panel cover. There are 3 10mm nuts that hold the large white piece (pictured below) in place. I used an automotive trim remover to pop the loom retainer pins out of the white panel, and unplugged all of the lower connectors. The yellow connectors higher up on the panel I left in place.

With the wiring mostly out of the way, I pulled the white panel towards the pedals from the bottom. This gave me enough room to reach in and remove both relays (lock and unlock).

The lock relay wasn't in terrible shape like the one pictured above, but definitely was worse for wear. The unlock relay (that still worked) had some carbon buildup that I cleaned up with a brass brush after removing its cover with a small pick. I also removed and inspected the relay labeled below as "D/L (DU) Relay", but it looked like the internal connector was in fine shape.

R&R relays, plug connectors back in (make sure you get all of them), reinstall the 3 10mm nuts, and snap the loom retainers back into place.

Works great now and was an easy task. Milwuakee 1/4" drive electric ratchet is a must-have for any automotive job.

View attachment 2870608

I have a similar issue. I traced it down to the DU relay for the front LH door lock actuator. I changed a fried door actuator today and when I went to plug it in, I heard it actuate. When I tried to manually move the door lock to the locked position, I noticed it was actuated in the unlock position (won't go to lock position) I immediately unplug the assembly in the door. I measured 12V between pin 2 and 3 which means it's signaling the door lock motor to unlock. I traced it back to the junction box. I think the contacts on the DU relay are welded together. Went on here to find the PN of the relay. Will let you know how it goes when I change the relays. For now I'm riding with the 40amp power fuse removed which removes power to the 3 relays.

 

[gordo172]

Adding toyota PNs of the relays.