LX470 Immobilizer Issue after Replacing the Ignition Barrel Rod

[jxu]

I was trying to fix wife's 2000 LX470 after she broke the ignition barrel rod one day. I ordered the part from Amazon product ASIN B01A14YCF8. I checked the part number. My broken rod is the same "B" version. So long story short, I replaced this barrel rod and put everything back. Since the key was in 'On' when the barrel rod was broken, the battery was gone when the barrel rod was replaced. So I had the truck jumped from another car. First off the bat, the alarm was triggered. So I used my remote key to press 'Open' and that disabled the alarm. But the truck cranks but doesn't start, as many here described this infamous immobilizer issue.

After reading many threads and messages here, I tried various methods and tricks. The issue remains. When the key is in 'On', it has 'Check Engine' and 'A/T Oil Temp' lights on. But the new barrel rod seems to work in that I can turn from 'Off' all the way to 'Start'. The truck cranks. Also I still can use my remote key to lock/unlock the truck.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or ideas?

TIA

 

[feza]

What is the security light doing? Slow flashing is how you know if it is an immobilizer issue or not. If you have a techstream setup, you can also see a "unrecognised key" type error.

 

[jxu]

Yes, the security light is in slow flashing.

 

[feza]

There is a rfid coil/ring around the ignition cylinder that reads the keys. it looks exactly like the one on this instructables link. I would assume that it is either damaged or not plugged in.

DIY: Immobilizer Hacking for Lost Keys or Swapped ECU

 

[jxu]

@feza You are right on damaged wire to the coil/ring. I also committed another mistake. I bought the above mentioned barrel rod from Amazon. It does not fit the 5 o'clock position, so I turned it 180 degree. I ended up removing the steering column upper bracket, replacing the wrong rod with the original rod (I welded it together), and fixing the coil/ring. Now the car starts.

Thanks @feza!

 

[jxu]

 

[jxu]

 

[2001LC]

Recognizing, Understanding & Correcting mistakes is one's best learning tool.

The one mistake most fail too see is what cause the rod to break in first place.

 

[feza]

I let my girlfriend drive my chevy caprice in highschool, she put a the key on a 5lb keychain with so much crap that is broke the rod.... With the car running In a parking lot.


So in hindsight, did you have to drop the steering column? Or could you have done it all from underneath?

 

[jxu]

Well, this is a good question. When I was first trying to get the broken rod out and to put in the new rod, I did not touch the steering column. I just removed the ignition switch from the bottom of the upper bracket. This is because it is easy to removed the broken part, which is small and without cams. It is also easy to put the new rod in. Then I discovered the following problems:

(1) The third-party rod is obviously not identical to the original part
I could not turn the rod to the 5 o'clock position so that I can insert the key cylinder. The reason it was 180 degree wrong was because that was the only position I could insert the key cylinder. Specifically, the cam of the rod obviously is not aligned to the bracket as designed.

(2) You can not naturally remove a full rod after it is inserted into the key cylinder.
The upper body of the barrel rod blocks access to the spring cam at the lower part of the bracket. I had to do some dremel work in order to get the third-party barrel rod out of the bracket. In order to do that, I had to lower down the entire steering column so that I can get the bracket to my work bench.

In hindsight, I would have lowered the steering column at the first trial if I knew what I know now. It is way safer and better access to the whole sub-assembly.