lx470 engine mount replacement help.... (1 Viewer)

[Bull Moose 100]

Hi guys, Has anyone replaced engine mounts on these vehicles yet? I am having a hard time figuring out how to remove the solo top bolt. The ahc stuff is in the way, and can be moved a little, but the real question is what tool or wrench combo do I use to remove that top single bolt.

The 2 side or bottom bolts look easy to get at. The top ones just look like a nightmare. I'm not sure what to use. I'm soaking them in PB buster right now.

 

[Bull Moose 100]

Here is a pic from the wheel well on the drivers side with the plastic removed.

Going from the top side is impossible because of the steering wheel shaft and other garbage.

Going from underneath is impossible because the nut is on top.

Deal wants $90 in labor and Haynes manual says "remove the nut", so it must be a straight forward process. I just can't figure out what tool to use to access this. I'll go at it tomorrow with a regular socket and a long rachet.

The bolt is dead center in the picture. It's in the Rusty Cavern that has been PB blasted to hell and back.

 

[2001LC]

I've not try this with engine in the rig, and have been wondering this myself and what is the proper torque.

A 17mm crowsfoot may work.
If tight you'll need a wrap around type crowsfoot.

I'd like to find a crowsfoot with extended reach or extended reach extension to attach to it. Then it could be done from above.

 

[6LCJ7]

Heat it up if you can do it without burning anything important.

 

[Bull Moose 100]

I couldn't really get in there with a socket, wrench, rachet wrench, or crowsfoot. I think this is one I might send off which I really don't like doing. :/

If the AHC line wasn't there it would be a lot easier, but it doesn't want to move very far even after I undo the bolt hold it in place.

 

[Rolocado]

Step one: remove AHC from vehicle
Step two: remove nut

 

[2001LC]

I found the standard crowsfoot pictured above, was limited in it's bit. Once turned couldn't get back on. But with a thin boxed crowsfoot maybe!

The boxes wrench flipped down like in above picture, has been best bit. With second box wrench hooked into open end to gain leavege with length.

A 3/8" breaker bar with short 17mm socket fit nicely. Use this set up to break loose.

Then slip on a ratcheted boxed end wrench, if you can't spin off by hand.

 

[Bull Moose 100]

I was about to log on here and say I figured it out, but you beat me to it.

For the single nut up top, I need a breaker bar that has a flexible head like the gear wrench and then
I need a ratcheting wrench with a flexible head to remove it the rest of the way.


For the other two nuts, I think a gear wrench with a flexible head would help out tremendously for the removal.

Time to order some gear wrenches with flex heads...I only have the non-flexing variety

The one problem I was have was getting the socket onto the nut, I think it has rusted enough that the nut has grown in size a little. It was proving difficult this morning to get the 6 point socket to fit.

I'll get this done soon enough.

Also, thanks for the pictures of the engine with the mounts attached. Those are helpful.

 

[2001LC]

Keep in mind a ratchet wrench will be broken if used to break nuts & bolts loose. Use a breaker bar or box end wrench for that.

I found some other tools that may be helpful.

 

[Bull Moose 100]

Roger that on the ratchet wrench.

I dropped it of at the local mechanic. He'll do each side for $75. I feel guilty for not doing it myself.

 

[OwnerCS]

Please note the following AHC system challenges on the left side.

This afternoon I removed the driver side mount's upper nut. I had some difficulty trying to remove the upper 17mm bolt with a swivel head ratchet.
Actually, I gave up and resigned to only replacing the right side and then finding a shop to replace the left side.

So after a couple of days, I decided I would not let that nut get the best of me. I decided to take it off one way or another.

After giving my problem some thought , I realized my standard 72 tooth swivel head ratchet would not allow a small degree movement that I needed to break the mount nut loose in such a tight area. So this afternoon, I decided to visit my local Harbor Freight and go looking for different types of swivel head ratchets.

Since my list visit to HF, they started selling a new tool brand named ICON. These ICON tools are more expensive than the Pittsburgh tools that I have purchased in the past. I found this 90 tooth 1/2 drive flex head ratchet and decided to give it a try with my existing 6 point impact 17mm socket.

The fit was tight and I had to jam the head into the mount area so the socket would properly seat on the 17mm nut.

The 90 tooth ratchet provided just enough swing to break the 17mm nut loose.

Here's a picture with the upper nut removed on the driver side.

 

[terrapin]

Replaced my engine and transmission mounts the other day. 2004 LX with 160k miles. It's an NM/AZ car and they were pretty far gone.

I used a flex head ratchet similar to @OwnerCS for the top nuts. I tried some crowfoot wrenches but could not for the life of me get them to work.

The biggest problem I had was lining up the two bottom bolts on the driver's side. I think it was because the old mounts had compressed so far that when I put in the new mount, the engine was off-kilter a bit. The passenger side slide in perfectly. In hindsight, I think loosening, but not removing the passenger side while replacing the driver's side might have made the job easier.

The transmission mount was much easier. Overall, not a difficult job, just hard as heck to access.

 

[Octous]

I'm about to do this on my 1999 land cruiser with 285k on the clock. Did you replace mounts with OEM mounts or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which ones? Have you noticed a difference in engine vibration positive or negative?

 

[terrapin]

I couldn't find my receipts, but I'm pretty sure that I used OEM. I can't say that I noticed much difference in vibration.

 

[Coin]

I used OEm mounts and noticed an improvement in vibration when sitting at stop lights, but replacing the front dif mounts really smoothed it out.

 

[tdale1316]

DID you guys also replace the rubber stabilizer pad part 12381 when you did the repair. I notice a vibration and a grumbling while at stop lights, Thank you in advance

 

[Coin]

If I remember correctly, that part comes with the engine mounts themselves.