I’ve been on this forum for a few years and have taken advantage of member knowledge on numerous occasions so I figured I’d contribute, albeit in a small way, to the information base. I’ve had a floppy driver’s side-view mirror for years and finally got tired of shoving paper in the hinge to get the mirror to stay extended while driving. While searching for a fix, I know there are several solutions that have been put forth that involve essentially eliminating the hinge part and deleting the folding capability of the mirror. I considered those, but in the end decided that I wanted the folding feature and purchased a used mirror from cruiserparts.net and installed it yesterday evening while the weather was still decent.
This is a simple process, but it was also a little more complex than I expected so I thought I’d document it. I haven't figured out how to embed pictures so they are attached.
Here is the process for a 97 LX450:
Tools
10mm socket
Flat head screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Wire cutters (optional)
1. I rolled the window down, remove the plastic cover on the inside of the door, and loosen(don’t remove) the 3 bolts with the 10mm socket.
2. Remove the armrest cover using the flat head to pry the clips off and then remove the two screws in the armrest.
3. Remove the screw under the door handle and the smaller screw in the door latch. You will need to remove the plastic trim around the door lock as well. No pictures of this - Use the flat head and pop the clips around the left, bottom, and bottom perimeter of the door panel. Once done you can lift the door panel off the door frame (the wires for the window/door lock control will still be connected so don’t move it too far from the door frame. I rested it between the frame and my knee while I finished the install.
4. Next, you’ll need to remove the door speaker and expose the mirror wire. The stock speaker is held in place with 4 Philips head screws. I removed the speaker and let it hang down on its own wire as I plan to replace it (and window runs) this summer. This is where I went a little caveman-ish on the install. I couldn’t manipulate the connector to disconnect the male and female ends with one hand and could not get both hands in the speaker cavity. There is a locking plastic nub that you have to clear in order to separate the two pieces. So, I used the wire cutters and cut the wire just above the connector. This allowed me to pull the connector out of the hole and then disconnect the old mirror wire.
5. There is a locking plastic snap that holds the mirror wire in place inside the door frame. You’ll need to manipulate the snap on the outside of the door frame and push the snap free (inside the frame) so that the mirror and wire can be removed from the door frame. Finish removing bolts and mirror.
6. Mirror install was basically the reverse process. I loosely attached the mirror with the 3 10mm bolts and then fed the wire through the door frame. I secured the snap in the frame and connected the wire; tighten the bolts, re-install the speaker, door panel, bolt cover, screws, and armrest. Be careful not to over tighten the screws as the door panel will crack.
This is a half banana job and probably didn’t deserve a write-up, but here it is anyway.
This is a simple process, but it was also a little more complex than I expected so I thought I’d document it. I haven't figured out how to embed pictures so they are attached.
Here is the process for a 97 LX450:
Tools
10mm socket
Flat head screwdriver
Philips head screwdriver
Wire cutters (optional)
1. I rolled the window down, remove the plastic cover on the inside of the door, and loosen(don’t remove) the 3 bolts with the 10mm socket.
2. Remove the armrest cover using the flat head to pry the clips off and then remove the two screws in the armrest.
3. Remove the screw under the door handle and the smaller screw in the door latch. You will need to remove the plastic trim around the door lock as well. No pictures of this - Use the flat head and pop the clips around the left, bottom, and bottom perimeter of the door panel. Once done you can lift the door panel off the door frame (the wires for the window/door lock control will still be connected so don’t move it too far from the door frame. I rested it between the frame and my knee while I finished the install.
4. Next, you’ll need to remove the door speaker and expose the mirror wire. The stock speaker is held in place with 4 Philips head screws. I removed the speaker and let it hang down on its own wire as I plan to replace it (and window runs) this summer. This is where I went a little caveman-ish on the install. I couldn’t manipulate the connector to disconnect the male and female ends with one hand and could not get both hands in the speaker cavity. There is a locking plastic nub that you have to clear in order to separate the two pieces. So, I used the wire cutters and cut the wire just above the connector. This allowed me to pull the connector out of the hole and then disconnect the old mirror wire.
5. There is a locking plastic snap that holds the mirror wire in place inside the door frame. You’ll need to manipulate the snap on the outside of the door frame and push the snap free (inside the frame) so that the mirror and wire can be removed from the door frame. Finish removing bolts and mirror.
6. Mirror install was basically the reverse process. I loosely attached the mirror with the 3 10mm bolts and then fed the wire through the door frame. I secured the snap in the frame and connected the wire; tighten the bolts, re-install the speaker, door panel, bolt cover, screws, and armrest. Be careful not to over tighten the screws as the door panel will crack.
This is a half banana job and probably didn’t deserve a write-up, but here it is anyway.
