LX450 Engine lost power and radiator exploded!!!!

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If you overheated it it kinda makes sense, cyl#6 receives coolant last in the flow iirc so it would be hottest there making the piston get really hott, expanding and chafing on the cylinder wall... If you can feel it with your fingernail your more than likely going to have to do a full rebuild
 
I'd like to see a picture of the #6 spark plug and the head at 6 as well. Also, that question about the silvery stuff - raised (material added), or lowered (material removed) there?

DougM
 
so my engine is hitting that mileage and was wondering is there anything i can do/test to make sure this dont happen to me? i drive 600 miles every month just to go see my kids and more around town and cant afford this to happen to me somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
 
so my engine is hitting that mileage and was wondering is there anything i can do/test to make sure this dont happen to me? i drive 600 miles every month just to go see my kids and more around town and cant afford this to happen to me somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

I would say an overhaul of your cooling system (fan clutch pm or replacement, water pump, thermostat, cleaning or replacement of radiator, and hoses if they have not been done recently), a head gasket, and some head work (while your in there), as well as a good tune would be good insurance. Though it would cost, it may save in the long run and add to the longevity of your truck. I plan on keeping my 80 until my 4 year old is driving and hopefully I will not have to do a major overhaul until she is 14-15 so the rig is mechanically like new when/if she inherits it (knock on wood). This is not all inclusive but a good start.
 
Ok so is there any tall tale signs something is about to go bad other than say a leak? I will do the cooland system overhaul. This Wednesday since it is payday and the day I was headed back to utah to see my kids. I just wanna feel confident that I won't break down between boise and logan. Thanks for the info and sorry for sorta hyjacking this thread.
 
Ok so is there any tall tale signs something is about to go bad other than say a leak? I will do the cooland system overhaul. This Wednesday since it is payday and the day I was headed back to utah to see my kids. I just wanna feel confident that I won't break down between boise and logan. Thanks for the info and sorry for sorta hyjacking this thread.

I would also invest in a scanguage/ultraguage so you can read true coolant temps. As far as relating to this thread, the A/C cutting out is a sign of engine overheating.
 
Here are a few more pictures of #6 cylinder, head @ #6, and spark plug from #6.
IMG_9204.jpg
IMG_9208.jpg
IMG_9200.jpg
 
And I forgot to respond to the deposit at top of cylinder. It is hard and firmly attached to the cylinder wall....most likely metal from the cylinder wall due to piston rubbing due to overheating?
 
Piston started melting and has then scored the cylinder walls. Time for some serious engine work. Either a replacement used engine in good shape or a rebuild.
Looks like one of the knock sensors had a mishaps as well. Look for a used one, new is fairly steep in cost.

At looking at the head, you can see the carbon blow by on the head where the fireing ring should be sealing.
 
Did your rad look anything like this?

I had the same scenario. Pulling a trailer uphill on a hot day. 80 was running great and all of a sudden power loss and poof, coolant all over the windshield. I was lucky the head gasket is fine. It ran a little rough until some adjustments were made after the new rad install.
IMG-20120803-00016.jpg
 
:( Bummer.....I guess it is a Monday today!!! Given what the pictures show should I pursue a rebuild on this engine or does it make more sense to buy a good used engine. Any good sources for a used engine? I did find one online for $1800 delivered (is that fair). What would be a resonable cost for an engine swap. Also if you could point me to a good thread on this site for the engine swap?
 
My rad was a brass version so it split a seam facing back towards the engine compartment...but basically the same sort of failure.
 
Update.

So I have been debating whether to touch the bottom end of the engine and so I tried the following experiment. With the head removed I filled each cylinder with about a 1/4 inch of oil and let it sit for a couple of days to see if there was any gross leakage past the rings. The purpose was to see if #6 cylinder, piston, rings were severly damaged. After 24 hours I checked the oil level and cylinders #1 through #5 looked good, but #6 was dry. I guess this confirms that I need to dig into #6.

The question is now whether to try going in from the bottom and only touching #6 with new pison and rings or to remove the engine and do a complete rebuild. How much cost should I expect in parts to rebuild the engine (assuming I sub out the machining and valve work)?
 
I just did my head (clean, resurface, valves--the works) out at a place in Ontario, OR and total for the job was around $700.00. That didn't include parts--I provided those separately. You may be able to find a place to do it cheaper in Boise. Sorry you ended up with such a mess.
 
You have a lot going on there, and that motor is done.

You need to have a serious talk with yourself about whether you want to keep the truck or not. Figure what ever you do is $6k-$10K. Maybe more. If the truck is a weekend toy, it may be time to part company with it. I know that sounds harsh, but a motor rebuild will be $5k, radiator and associated bits $1k and then labor. It adds up fast.

If you want to keep it, why not take it down to Robbie (Powderpig above) and have him go through it? It's going to be expensive, but I'd rather have a good rebuild than an unknown in a truck I use all the time. At least you'll know it's done right. I think he's got some 1Fzs in the shop, you might ask about rebuilding one of those.

When your A/C cut out, that means the engine temp was above 226 degrees. Unfortunately the stock gauge gives you no warning. When it finally overheated it took the HG with it. There is a very good chance your head and even block will be warped. It totally sucks, but these trucks need to stay cool.
 
Wow what a bummer. $6-10K for a complete rebuild practically = the value of the truck (not counting any high $$ mods). You could buy another 80 series and use yours for spares, or pull the engine from it and put it in yours.
 
When it finally overheated it took the HG with it. There is a very good chance your head and even block will be warped.

What kind of temps are we talking about?
 
if this is not your DD and you have some time, i would rebuild it. if you want to go on a budget, replace cyl 6 and install a complete new ring set. im not sure how easily accessible the bottom end is while still bolted up in the truck.
 
You have 1/2 the work done in pulling the engine. If you can get a rebuilt one for $1800, that would be a screaming deal. I would call around the machine shops in the Boise area and get a quote on rebuilding (pull and reinstall yourself). I'm pretty sure you could do it for considerably less than $6,000. Maybe $6,000 if you have someone do all the work.
 

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