- Thread starter
- #81
LX to GX - First Time GX Owner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LXJake93
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
- Thread starter
- #83
Here’s a question. Where does your temp gauge needle sit when the cooling system is running most efficiently? Before changing out radiators the needle sat dead-center but after letting the engine run for about 20 minutes in the driveway tonight the needle wouldn’t budge past this point. Is that normal?
- Thread starter
- #84
next action items are to go though the brakes and swap out pads and rotors and do a flush and fill on the fluid. Also, to patch a nail in the rear ds tire. The bottle jack this thing came with sucks big time. Need to upgrade.
Mine reads about two graduations left of neutral (even driving), if that helps. Just under 130K and on first radiator, water pump and hoses. Planning to replace mine at 150K, as well as doing the coolant valley seal and alternator. Hoping that CVs, ball joints and tie rods last until 200K. One can dream I guess.
- Thread starter
- #86
Okay gotcha. Now that I've driven it a bit, it's reading 1 notch left of neutral whether driving or idling. After installing, it only took about 1.5 gallons of coolant even after idling for about half an hour. Gonna check the res level before I leave the work parking lot tonight. It read empty this morning after sitting off all night in the driveway last night. So, it's probably thirsty...
Assuming that the gauge/sensor is like most "modern" systems, the gauge typically is a coarse, idealized read (not linear). So one can actually have a pretty broad range of actual coolant temps "indicating" the same reading on the gauge. The fact that you've experienced a change in gauge indicated temp, make me think you've made a significant improvement!
- Thread starter
- #88
In an attempt to diagnose the rear a/c not working, I'm curious if anyone has had to replace their rear a/c evaporator. The air coming out of the rear vents is not cold despite efforts to set the thermostat to the lowest temp. It just continues to blow hot air, which leads me to think the evaporator is a goner (e.g. hot air is not being blown across a freezing-refrigerant-filled-evaporator thus generating an atmosphere similar to Satan's Summer Pants Party). Unless, the rear air system is not getting refrigerant for whatever reason. If the rear a/c is not getting refrigerant then I need to figure out how the whole system works to see where the blockage (or whatever) is and fix it. Also, the blower motors in front and rear are working properly as far as I can tell. All settings seem to function as intended.
Questions for anyone who may know...
1. Does front and rear a/c run off a single compressor in the engine bay?
2. If so, the front a/c is as cold as a well diggers a$$ in January so refrigerant is getting to the front system but why not the back system? Clog? Sealed off?
3. If not, where is the second/rear a/c compressor located?
4. Regardless, where is the rear evaporator located? Cannot find on diagram on Lexus parts site.
5. Are there thermostats or temp sensors for the cabin? If so, where are the fronts and rears located? Cannot find locations on Lexus parts site, either.
my apologies for such a lengthy response here but dagnabbit I wanna figure this crap out and fix it. It's hotter than a billy goats a$$ in a pepper patch
Questions for anyone who may know...
1. Does front and rear a/c run off a single compressor in the engine bay?
2. If so, the front a/c is as cold as a well diggers a$$ in January so refrigerant is getting to the front system but why not the back system? Clog? Sealed off?
3. If not, where is the second/rear a/c compressor located?
4. Regardless, where is the rear evaporator located? Cannot find on diagram on Lexus parts site.
5. Are there thermostats or temp sensors for the cabin? If so, where are the fronts and rears located? Cannot find locations on Lexus parts site, either.
my apologies for such a lengthy response here but dagnabbit I wanna figure this crap out and fix it. It's hotter than a billy goats a$$ in a pepper patch
1. Yes
2. It sounds like you might be low on refrigerant. I thought I read the other day a low charge will work the front but cause 3rd zone in rear to not necessarily cool
3. Refer to #1
4. Right rear fender area
5. Rear temp sensor is on that rear right fender area. I’ll see if I can find picture. Look at upper right area of picture.
HVAC - Air Conditioning / Heating - Troubleshooting, Questions, Info - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - HVAC - Air Conditioning / Heating - Troubleshooting, Questions, Info - How can I control and ensure the kids stop messing with the rear climate settings. Toyota highlander and sequioa let's you. I have a 2014 GX Lux Thanks
www.clublexus.com
Look for this in the right rear area
- Thread starter
- #90
I've begun feeling out the rear A/C and am probably going to turn to a professional to perform the work needed to get it working properly again.
In the meantime, I'm curious if anyone has a write up on the water pump replacement. It looked super straight forward when I had the rad and fan out but am curious of any extra bits I need to know about before pursuing. Not sure when this was replaced, this might be the original wp which scares me a little. The serp belt and/or a tensioner or pulley somewhere is squeaking pretty good, too. Might as well knock it all out at once. Feeling advantageous.
In the meantime, I'm curious if anyone has a write up on the water pump replacement. It looked super straight forward when I had the rad and fan out but am curious of any extra bits I need to know about before pursuing. Not sure when this was replaced, this might be the original wp which scares me a little. The serp belt and/or a tensioner or pulley somewhere is squeaking pretty good, too. Might as well knock it all out at once. Feeling advantageous.
Water pump DIY info here
Also a video here
Water Pump DIY - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 2nd Gen (2010-2023) - Water Pump DIY - Couldnt find a water pump DIY on the boards, has any one on here done it themselves? Just want to know how you got to your water pump. I just changed my Radiator myself and what a PITA. I dont want to dissemble it again, shame on me for not changing...
www.clublexus.com
Also a video here
- Thread starter
- #92
After replacing radiator and rad cap and flushing coolant system I didn't notice any pooling coolant under vehicle and temp was good. Problem was solved.
Three days later the temp gauge suddenly creeped up a few notches while driving normally, so I swung into a neighborhood and shut it down. Upon inspection, coolant res was empty (bone dry) and the upper hose seemed swollen, or slightly fatter than normal and extremely hot to the touch. Looked like the system was so pressurized that coolant was escaping through the new upper hose and hose clamp connected to the upper hose outlet area and streaming down the front of the engine (area of PCV, near coolant valley) making it look like the valley was leaking.. So, I dumped some coolant down the res, powered back up, temp was normal, off I went.
After sitting idle in the driveway for a night, the next morning I noticed a coolant puddle underneath. AWESOME
The res was still half full so I went to work anyway, don't have time to dilly and tinker like I want to. After work, another coolant puddle underneath and the res is empty. Filled res again and drove the 10 minutes home.
O K
Let it sit in my driveway that night and the next morning I popped the New rad cap off (engine cool) and put the Old rad cap on. It's not destroyed but kinda loosie goosey so I guess I'll be ordering an OE cap and maybe chunk this Car Quest (advanced auto) POS...
Drove it around in the 109 degree weather yesterday and it has not leaked a drop of coolant and the upper hose is not swollen anymore and temp reads normal again.
Three days later the temp gauge suddenly creeped up a few notches while driving normally, so I swung into a neighborhood and shut it down. Upon inspection, coolant res was empty (bone dry) and the upper hose seemed swollen, or slightly fatter than normal and extremely hot to the touch. Looked like the system was so pressurized that coolant was escaping through the new upper hose and hose clamp connected to the upper hose outlet area and streaming down the front of the engine (area of PCV, near coolant valley) making it look like the valley was leaking.. So, I dumped some coolant down the res, powered back up, temp was normal, off I went.
After sitting idle in the driveway for a night, the next morning I noticed a coolant puddle underneath. AWESOME
The res was still half full so I went to work anyway, don't have time to dilly and tinker like I want to. After work, another coolant puddle underneath and the res is empty. Filled res again and drove the 10 minutes home.
O K
Let it sit in my driveway that night and the next morning I popped the New rad cap off (engine cool) and put the Old rad cap on. It's not destroyed but kinda loosie goosey so I guess I'll be ordering an OE cap and maybe chunk this Car Quest (advanced auto) POS...
Drove it around in the 109 degree weather yesterday and it has not leaked a drop of coolant and the upper hose is not swollen anymore and temp reads normal again.
