LX to GX - First Time GX Owner (1 Viewer)

[LXJake93]

Mine had brake dive since purchase (76k) and started really loosening up around 100k. I replaced mine with Bilstien 5100s and am pretty happy with it. All GX460s (unless modified from stock) have KDSS. You likely have a typical shock/strut configuration. AHC versions have two more switches (height and ride settings) above where you'll find your Hill Descent (or CC) and H4/L4 switches.

I think both are rare but show signs around 100-150k. Some good info on the coolant valley repair here.

None and haven't heard of any.

So, I’m guessing it’s about that time to replace suspension. I’ll have to start shopping around for deals and wait for the right one to come along. No serious wheeling in the near future, just occasional hunts and camping trips until the baby is a bit grown.

My brake pedal tends to vibrate for a sec after depressing coming up to a stop. My old one’s brake pedal would vibrate for 30-40 seconds before shutting off. Turns out the booster was going out.

Last question for now… any experience with the power steering making a burping/humming noise while turning lock to lock?

 

[rav8]

My brake pedal tends to vibrate for a sec after depressing coming up to a stop. My old one’s brake pedal would vibrate for 30-40 seconds before shutting off. Turns out the booster was going out.

Last question for now… any experience with the power steering making a burping/humming noise while turning lock to lock?

I don't have any experience with either of those conditions. You might have some luck using the forum search for like symptoms. Otherwise, I might start a new thread for each of those issues. Questions in this forum usually get quick responses if the problem is known to others. Good luck.

 

[jeremy j]

Secondly, around what mileage do people start having coolant valley leak issues and transmission issues?

For reference, my 2014 coolant valley leak happened at about 75K.

 

[r2m]

So, I’m guessing it’s about that time to replace suspension. I’ll have to start shopping around for deals and wait for the right one to come along. No serious wheeling in the near future, just occasional hunts and camping trips until the baby is a bit grown.

My brake pedal tends to vibrate for a sec after depressing coming up to a stop. My old one’s brake pedal would vibrate for 30-40 seconds before shutting off. Turns out the booster was going out.

Last question for now… any experience with the power steering making a burping/humming noise while turning lock to lock?

Most steering will whine at hard lock. Never heard a "burp" or humming unless you're referring to humming as whining.
How is the feel? Heavy, anything unusual when going lock to lock?

 

[jgalt]

Some people have reported that though the leak seemed to be at the upper rad hose connection, it was actually a leak coming from the endcap to core interface. The rads seem to fail here a significant amount of the time.

 

[LXJake93]

Most steering will whine at hard lock. Never heard a "burp" or humming unless you're referring to humming as whining.
How is the feel? Heavy, anything unusual when going lock to lock?

It's difficult to describe the sound but turning the steering wheel while moving is buttery smooth, no pops or anything either. But, if sitting still and turning the steering wheel it's a bit tougher - to be expected - but not too tough.. and then there is this sort of low dog whine sort of sound when spinning the steering wheel. I don't know.. probably just me and my schizophrenia.........

 

[LXJake93]

Some people have reported that though the leak seemed to be at the upper rad hose connection, it was actually a leak coming from the endcap to core interface. The rads seem to fail here a significant amount of the time.

Sorry, but just so I'm understanding, do you mean the top of the radiator? Like, the upper top/cap half? I know only the most technical terms and have to constantly ask folks to stoop to my level

But, I did thoroughly check the area(s) from which I presumed the leak to be dripping. The radiator coolant filler cap was checked, also the molded connection from where the coolant filler cap is manufactured onto the top of the radiator was checked for pinholes/cracks. No pinholes nor cracks but when the engine is up to temp, I see a consistent drip line coming from where the upper rad hose connects to the radiator.

Side note, it is red coolant... right? That's what's supposed to be in there... right?? RIGHT???

 

[r2m]

It's difficult to describe the sound but turning the steering wheel while moving is buttery smooth, no pops or anything either. But, if sitting still and turning the steering wheel it's a bit tougher - to be expected - but not too tough.. and then there is this sort of low dog whine sort of sound when spinning the steering wheel. I don't know.. probably just me and my schizophrenia.........

If you're by a Lexus dealer, I'd pop in and let them have a look. It wouldn't cost anything for them to turn your steering wheel!
If they think the sound is suspicious, they'll let you know.

 

[jgalt]

Yes, coolant is red. The rad core has end caps (plastic) which run vertically the entire height of the core. at each end (left and right sides) They are attached to the core and can leak there.

 

[LXJake93]

Okay I'll check those end caps in-between rain storms this week/weekend.

Snapped some photos of the leak! And replaced the rad hose and circle clamps with new. Still seeing a very minimal drip/leak coming from the same area but it's lessened up quite a bit verses before.

Also, I'll be listing a 2013 Nissan Versa SV this weekend if any Mudder's want first dibs on a reliable 38 mpg commuter. It's been a good ride and I hate to see it go but we don't need three cars. We've had it since new.

 

[jgalt]

See those aluminum crimps? That's the interface, endcap to core where they leak.

 

[LXJake93]

See those aluminum crimps? That's the interface, endcap to core where they leak.

Totally see that now. Thanks for your insight! Maybe a radiator is in my near future

 

[LXJake93]

A few more questions if anyone's willing and able to answer...

Brakes... is it normal for the GX's to have slightly squishy brake pedals? It brakes and stops when needed and will stop almost on a dime if needed BUT the pedal has to be depressed almost completely and if my foot pressure slightly decreases the car rolls a bit. Normal? Are my feet just tired? Or, is the brake booster starting to go? ha!

Radiator... Has anyone ever successfully used stop-leak in these radiators?

I'm starting to really miss having the old '99 LX 470... I'll take a timing belt and water pump every 100k miles and the torn leather seats and crappy radio and missing D light over these issues any day.. but this is where I'm at and I wanna keep this thing around for a while if I can.

So far, transmission is holding strong at 145k miles and I'm almost certain it's the original. Nowhere in the history does it show one being replaced nor does it show the radiator or water pump being replaced, either, so that's troubling my mind. ha!

 

[r2m]

A few more questions if anyone's willing and able to answer...

Brakes... is it normal for the GX's to have slightly squishy brake pedals? It brakes and stops when needed and will stop almost on a dime if needed BUT the pedal has to be depressed almost completely and if my foot pressure slightly decreases the car rolls a bit. Normal? Are my feet just tired? Or, is the brake booster starting to go? ha!

Radiator... Has anyone ever successfully used stop-leak in these radiators?

I'm starting to really miss having the old '99 LX 470... I'll take a timing belt and water pump every 100k miles and the torn leather seats and crappy radio and missing D light over these issues any day.. but this is where I'm at and I wanna keep this thing around for a while if I can.

So far, transmission is holding strong at 145k miles and I'm almost certain it's the original. Nowhere in the history does it show one being replaced nor does it show the radiator or water pump being replaced, either, so that's troubling my mind. ha!

Brakes should feel pretty firm. You may need to (any one of the following or in combination):

1. Bleed your system
2. New pads
3. Resurface your rotors or replace.

Personally, if at all possible, I'd avoid putting anything in your cooling system to stop a leak. If it's from the radiator, replace the radiator. It's not too expensive and you're probably due at 145k miles anyways.

 

[Acrad]

If you have any plans to keep your 460 please do not use stop leak.

Do you have unexplained coolant loss?

I would be replacing that radiator.

My recent Motive brake bleed after full brake job tightened things up.

 

[LXJake93]

No signs of it leaking anywhere except where previously mentioned in this thread.

Okay, now I'm looking at either Koyorad or Spectra Premium on RockAuto.

 

[jgalt]

No "Stop Leak!" That's just a temp fix at best which causes additional problems down the road. Is Denso the OEM radiator? I can't recall for sure, but if so, that brand is good

 

[Banandalorian]

A few more questions if anyone's willing and able to answer...

Brakes... is it normal for the GX's to have slightly squishy brake pedals? It brakes and stops when needed and will stop almost on a dime if needed BUT the pedal has to be depressed almost completely and if my foot pressure slightly decreases the car rolls a bit. Normal? Are my feet just tired? Or, is the brake booster starting to go? ha!

Every stock GX I have driven has kind of a weird brake feel like what you described. The brakes work fine, but it does feel like you have to push the pedal down a lot more than most cars. I noticed this in the few I test drove, the one I ended up buying, and one of my buddy's who asked me about it in their 460. I think the OE pads just don't have much "bite" so a more aggressive brake pad helps a lot with this. I switched to Stoptech street pads last year and the brake feel was much improved. If it wasn't done recently, a fluid exchange and bleed and always a good idea if you are doing other brake maintenance anyway.

When the brake booster starts to go, it normally results in the pedal feeling very stiff or sticky at initial travel and you get some weird noises...I am aware of this because in the last week or so I have begun to experience the symptoms of a brake booster going bad

 

[LXJake93]

Every stock GX I have driven has kind of a weird brake feel like what you described. The brakes work fine, but it does feel like you have to push the pedal down a lot more than most cars. I noticed this in the few I test drove, the one I ended up buying, and one of my buddy's who asked me about it in their 460. I think the OE pads just don't have much "bite" so a more aggressive brake pad helps a lot with this. I switched to Stoptech street pads last year and the brake feel was much improved. If it wasn't done recently, a fluid exchange and bleed and always a good idea if you are doing other brake maintenance anyway.

When the brake booster starts to go, it normally results in the pedal feeling very stiff or sticky at initial travel and you get some weird noises...I am aware of this because in the last week or so I have begun to experience the symptoms of a brake booster going bad

I definitely don't feel the stiff/sticky travel in the pedal like you described but I do experience a very slight mechanical vibration in the pedal when it's depressed completely. It happens either while stopping or while stopped and I pump the brake pedal a tiny bit more. Very short, maybe 1 second or 2 seconds long of a slight vibration only in the pedal under those circumstances. My 99 LX did this same thing but the vibration lasted for 10 or more seconds under similar circumstances. Wondering if this is just how the brake pedals work in Lexus' SUV's.

I will probably order brake pad/rotor kits from Rock Auto by the end of the month and get going on that, just to be on the safe side. Along with a radiator. I'm unsure of when the water pump and thermostat were replaced but I might just order the thermostat and housing with the rad just because shipping is a nightmare even for cheap parts. And just replace what needs to be replaced for now and have a shop do the wp and whatnot at another time. Everything else with it seems to be working well, along with the cooled seats! Coming in mighty handy with our 90 degree days starting up in north AL.

 

[rav8]

I definitely don't feel the stiff/sticky travel in the pedal like you described but I do experience a very slight mechanical vibration in the pedal when it's depressed completely. It happens either while stopping or while stopped and I pump the brake pedal a tiny bit more. Very short, maybe 1 second or 2 seconds long of a slight vibration only in the pedal under those circumstances. My 99 LX did this same thing but the vibration lasted for 10 or more seconds under similar circumstances. Wondering if this is just how the brake pedals work in Lexus' SUV's.

I will probably order brake pad/rotor kits from Rock Auto by the end of the month and get going on that, just to be on the safe side. Along with a radiator. I'm unsure of when the water pump and thermostat were replaced but I might just order the thermostat and housing with the rad just because shipping is a nightmare even for cheap parts. And just replace what needs to be replaced for now and have a shop do the wp and whatnot at another time. Everything else with it seems to be working well, along with the cooled seats! Coming in mighty handy with our 90 degree days starting up in north AL.

I had some vibration as well. Also, when idling at a stop, felt that the GX wanted to pull ahead if I wasn't making a concious effort to stay put. I tried to justify it being a consequence of improved low-end torque but that was not the case. This was at 100k. I replaced pads with medium-duty PowerStop pads and Raybestos rotors from RockAuto. After proper break-in, the feel and holding at stop have greatly improved.

It is a habit of mine (based on no measurable metric) that when I come to a sudden (unanticipated) stop, I'll move the shifter to 'N' and let the brake off for a second. This (my own undefended theory) lets me creep forward slightly while letting the pad cool a bit instead of fusing material to the rotor.