Lunyou's Budget Cruiser buildup thread
- Thread starter lunyou
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- #22
quick queston, what would you guys do about the rear tailgate area. The gate that is in it is shot beyond repair. I was thing one of those tailgates you can buy for a truck that lets air through but that doesn't help rigidity. Next I was thinking about possibly having a couple pipes welded in across the back to stiffen it up some and thing I could modify one of the above mentioned tail gates to fasten to the tubes to keep stuff from leaving the back.
another thing.....I saw a picture of a 60 with bucket seats for the back seat instead of the bench. I cannot use my bench anymore due the back seat support mounts/latch being in the way of the top removal. Whos was it?
thanks
lunyou
another thing.....I saw a picture of a 60 with bucket seats for the back seat instead of the bench. I cannot use my bench anymore due the back seat support mounts/latch being in the way of the top removal. Whos was it?
thanks
lunyou
I'd definitely think about doing some additional box framing with the rig. Either "weld in" or better yet figure out a "bolt in" crossmember for added rigidity. Could also add a truck bed organizer (adjustable stick type) to help hold things in the rear/add more rigidity too.
Or, build a wicked roll cage with expanded steel mesh curtains!
Or, build a wicked roll cage with expanded steel mesh curtains!
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- #26
i have good glass in it and yes it is for sale, if i can figure out how to ship it.
lunyou
serenity
SILVER Star
for the tailgate you could make a removable section of the cage across it and put some netting on like this guys tailgate.
Holy crap how many chopped 60 threads are there now....You, tencha, and me...So I count 3 is there more that I dont know about? sheeaasss.
Looks good dude....cut and cap those quarters with some 1/8th inch plate and they will last a life time.
Looks good dude....cut and cap those quarters with some 1/8th inch plate and they will last a life time.
Lunyou, Instead of fiberglassing the rear quarter chop it all out and use some diamond plate steel to look like they do with the 40 series when they rust out. Simple and won't rust again. And tough.
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- #30
Thanks for the advice lowtide. I was going to build caps using fiberglass but dot to figuring that unless i braced the inside of the quarters really well the vibration would probably bibrate the fiberglass loose. Now i have to find someone to do some welding for me.
For the tail gate I think I am going to fabricate two steel tubes that would bolt into the gap. the top tube will utilize the top mounting holes that are there from the rear hatch latches the other will fit almost flush with the rear bed. Then I can use one of those tail gates like that one pictured above.
lunyou
For the tail gate I think I am going to fabricate two steel tubes that would bolt into the gap. the top tube will utilize the top mounting holes that are there from the rear hatch latches the other will fit almost flush with the rear bed. Then I can use one of those tail gates like that one pictured above.
lunyou
make the caps out of bent diamond plate and attach it with large self tapping screws. Like the kinda bedrail guard on a pick up truck.
I would do away with the whole rear section of tailgate, etc. I don't have any pics, but I would Bob the mother right after the rear spring hangers and get some better clearance and less s*** to hang up on in the woods. you could either weld in a better tailgate section on the end like some 4 runner guys do, or just fab up cage with a spare tire holder, baja style or something.
Bob it for sure though!
Bob it for sure though!
- Thread starter
- #33
thanks for bumping the thread.
I doubt I bob it due to lack of supplies and welding ability/resources. I also don't want to have to relocate the gas tank which I hear can be a problem when bobbing.
As of right now I am going to scrounge up, at a junk yard, some kind of spare tire holder that older ford vans use. Hoping to find the type that fastens securely to one of the vans rear amby doors. Once I find that I will Figure out how to fasten it down in the bed of the truck right above the rear axl to keep the weight off the rear over the bumper
I have a set of 15x8 wheels located and secured that will work until I can afford the wheel/tire combo so that I can run the 37" military tires that I can get down the street. What can I run on 15x8s?
lunyou
I doubt I bob it due to lack of supplies and welding ability/resources. I also don't want to have to relocate the gas tank which I hear can be a problem when bobbing.
As of right now I am going to scrounge up, at a junk yard, some kind of spare tire holder that older ford vans use. Hoping to find the type that fastens securely to one of the vans rear amby doors. Once I find that I will Figure out how to fasten it down in the bed of the truck right above the rear axl to keep the weight off the rear over the bumper
I have a set of 15x8 wheels located and secured that will work until I can afford the wheel/tire combo so that I can run the 37" military tires that I can get down the street. What can I run on 15x8s?
lunyou
- Thread starter
- #34
UPdate:
I thought since Dazza bumped me I would give an update to the situation known as chopping the top.
I have gutting the interior moreso than what was gutted when the top came off. All of the carpet is gone along with the headliner cloth in the remaining cab(although that insulation is still there, not for long though)
Also I took out all of the seats and center console. I am going to find a set of good side support seats in a JY or off the MUD classifieds for the front and I am going to use the two front buckets from the cruiser as the back seat, fastening them to the metal bottom plate of the back seat(that rear seat bottom was a bugger to get take apart)
I did cut the passenger rocker, the outside part, as well as trimmed the rear quarter passenger quarterpanel to the rough size I want to keep. And I wonder why toyot didn't have them come from the factory like that.
That is it for now, I am waiting to get the fiberglass resin/hardener and the paint which I think is going to be hard for me to find around here.
Does anyone need a good rear seat back for a grey fj60? Its cheap. How about the seat foamand springs for the bottom part? They are cheap too.
lunyou
I thought since Dazza bumped me I would give an update to the situation known as chopping the top.
I have gutting the interior moreso than what was gutted when the top came off. All of the carpet is gone along with the headliner cloth in the remaining cab(although that insulation is still there, not for long though)
Also I took out all of the seats and center console. I am going to find a set of good side support seats in a JY or off the MUD classifieds for the front and I am going to use the two front buckets from the cruiser as the back seat, fastening them to the metal bottom plate of the back seat(that rear seat bottom was a bugger to get take apart)
I did cut the passenger rocker, the outside part, as well as trimmed the rear quarter passenger quarterpanel to the rough size I want to keep. And I wonder why toyot didn't have them come from the factory like that.
That is it for now, I am waiting to get the fiberglass resin/hardener and the paint which I think is going to be hard for me to find around here.
Does anyone need a good rear seat back for a grey fj60? Its cheap. How about the seat foamand springs for the bottom part? They are cheap too.
lunyou
i really like the look of these seats:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...11342/p-2011342/N-111+10714+600008996/c-10614
they are very similar to mastercrafts seats but alot easier on the wallet:
http://www.mastercraftseats.com/prod-rubicon-buck.shtml
Frizzlefry is using them, he has a buildup of a 55 in the hardcore section.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...11342/p-2011342/N-111+10714+600008996/c-10614
they are very similar to mastercrafts seats but alot easier on the wallet:
http://www.mastercraftseats.com/prod-rubicon-buck.shtml
Frizzlefry is using them, he has a buildup of a 55 in the hardcore section.
I know you're on a budget here, but I'd have to say that investing in a smallish 110 welder would be an immense help. I bought my Lincoln on sale at lowe's for around $300, and got a tank for 125. I even talked the tool manager at lowe's into getting me 10% off wire and tips because the box was opened. I use it all the time now, and my skills are improving too 
also, it'll help when you need to do your rollcage if you go that route...and it may be less money than fiberglass in the long run.
rig's looking good though.
also, it'll help when you need to do your rollcage if you go that route...and it may be less money than fiberglass in the long run.
rig's looking good though.
- Thread starter
- #37
Cody, Thanks for the links to the seat. I really like those mastercraft seats.....they look REALLY comfortable. The other seats look good to though and are cloer to my price range. I will probably end up finding a set of cheap 60 seats or possibly luck upon a set of sr5 4runner seats.
PHILOS, I live in an old apartment that doesn't have the best wiring inside with none outside. If I run the Microwave and a countertop grill it throws the breaker. I figure a welder would do the same. My FIL is a good welder, he keeps his logtruck on the road with it since something is always breaking.
Keep the thoughts coming though.
lunyou
PHILOS, I live in an old apartment that doesn't have the best wiring inside with none outside. If I run the Microwave and a countertop grill it throws the breaker. I figure a welder would do the same. My FIL is a good welder, he keeps his logtruck on the road with it since something is always breaking.
Keep the thoughts coming though.
lunyou
ahhh, I know that situation too...maybe do the welding at his place then after everything has been prepped?
Looks like a fun project, I'm in the process of buying a can-back so my runner can be topless all year. I'll stop by some time next semester and check out the build and we can take our topless toys for a cruise.
Brian
Brian
IMHO I'd sure cut that rust out...Straight across, get more ground clearance before you eventually do the "bob job"...and cap it for now, so it has a finished edge that you won't cut your fingers off with, should you go back there and feel around for any reason...It looks cool so far!
