Lowering LX570 via AHC links? (1 Viewer)

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Nov 17, 2013
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Let the flaming begin....
My wife dailys our 2016 LX570 (mall cruiser). We intend to do a couple local overland trips this summer. The beauty of the LX is that it can do both. In the mean time I was wondering if anyone has adjusted the links to have the wagon sit lower than the oem setting at all 3 heights. I plan to do an aftermarket wheel for DD and would like the "stance" to match the wheel. When the weekends come along that we are heading into the woods I will but the links back to there stock location.

I feel like I have a very good understanding of mechanical stuff but the AHC has been tricky for me to get my head around. Typically the steel spring supports the weight of the vehicle and the shock dampens the motion of the vehicle vs. wheel. With this being said, the AHC adds pressure to the shock to raise the vehicle acting as a stiffer/ taller spring. I read somewhere that when the car is lowered there is to much pressure in the system. Confused...

The question is... can you guys think of any side effects of lowering the vehicle that I am not thinking of (besides hitting on the bump stops).

Thanks!
 
You mean like this?
slammed33.jpg


I personally haven't changed my sensors at all. Though in regards to your question, it should be easily doable. Generally in "L" there's insufficient damping in the system, but if you change the sensors to lower the normal ride height, it should be just fine. I don't know how much adjustment you'll get...possibly around 1.25" lower since it seems by stock, it's set just about midpoint in the physical adjustment range.
 
This brings up another question. If the truck is sitting lower to the ground but the computer believes the truck is in the Neutral position, will there still be insufficient dampening? Is the amount of damping a product of the pressure in the system (lower pressure equals less dampening) or when the truck is set to the neutral height does that adjust the shock valving separate from system pressure?

I do not even know if the system changes the valving ever, or if its only adjusting hydraulic pressure to each corner. (which I believe in theory would change the ride feel while not changing the actual orifice size inside the shock) Thanks!
 
I don't believe I've ever come across anyone that's tried this, even on the 100-series. So until you try...it's just a guess.

What we do know is that the AHC needs to effectively support some of the weight (load) of the vehicle to work optimally. When the car is lower, the physical springs support a greater percentage of the load (e.g. 80% springs / 20% AHC). When the car is in high, the AHC systems supports more of the load (e.g. 20% springs / 80% AHC). And likely at neutral height it's more split to some degree. (e.g. 50% springs / 50% AHC) We can infer this because that's how the physical spring will work based on different ride heights.

I believe the damping system (which is all in AHC) doesn't really work unless the pressure globes are exerting some level of pressure within the AHC hydraulic system. Otherwise, there would be no effective rebound control. There's likely some compensation logic that causes the valving to work at different sizes based on system pressure (load), to get a net damping effect.

Whether the AHC has sufficient range of valving to gain sufficient damping control at the lower ride height is the question.

Won't know until you try!
 
So... would it be possible to lower the car then set the pressure to the correct neutral pressure. Seems like that would simply lift it back to where we started.
 
You won't have much control to adjust neutral pressures for the lower position short of cutting spring coils off the spring.

Though it's not likely the AHC pressures will be that much out of wack for something like 1.25" lower. On my 100-series, when readjusting for neutral pressures to regain load capacity, putting in a 30mm spacer didn't lower the pressures that dramatically.

I say go for it. In all likelihood, it'll work great.
 
It depends how much lower you want to go. You can always put it back. Just mark where you start from. It is really easy to do. You will need a 10mm socket or open end wrench. Just take measurements all the way around so you will know where your baseline is.

Maybe do the fronts first - Maybe set the lever on H mode so you will have room to work with in between the wheel well. PUSH THE OFF BUTTON so it stays in High mode when you shut the truck off. Use your 10mm and loosen it and move the sensor the direction you want to go. Start the truck and cycle the AHC - take measurements again and see where you are. If you need to adjust again, just turn it back off and do it again. :)

I don't think you need to worry about the pressure for now - drive it around after you get the height you want and see if it feels any different. IF you have stock wheels and tires, it probably won't rub even when you are full lock (turn).

Let us know how it goes - or if you have any other questions.
 
Thanks guys. You have all confirmed thoughts. I think ill give it a whirl. Thanks again
 
Should just be the opposite of what I did. There is room for adjustment each way.

Tip: adjust the rear sensors in the opposite direction of the fronts. It'll save you doing it twice.
 
You really might want to wander over to the 100 forum and ping PADDO. While your question is 200 centric, the essence of the two systems is similar and PADDO is the Mud braintrust on AHC.
 

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