Lower control arm nut and bolt part numbers (2 Viewers)

[akrafty1]

So I am diving in and replacing the upper and lower control arms on my 2000 LX470 and was wondering if I could get some part number help with the connecting hardware. I am going a bit cross eyed looking at the part diagrams and want to make sure I am on target. Here is what I have so far.

Are the last four items correct for the lower control arms? Additionally is part number 90179-14069 the correct nut for the cam adjusting bolt for the upper control arm?

Here is the diagram I have been using.

Much appreciated

 

[Malleus]

Correct on all counts. This is on my list of things to do this weekend. Feel free to contact me if you need any help (-ful hints).

 

[akrafty1]

Correct on all counts. This is on my list of things to do this weekend. Feel free to contact me if you need any help (-ful hints).

Thanks! much appreciated

 

[Malleus]

You have to love working on southern trucks. I don't know if I could love it if I had to deal with rust...

 

[BiotechBoy]

I assume you'd want to replace both sides at the same time? I'd love to do mine, but the amount of rust on my '02 from Vermont is a little daunting.

 

[PNWSkiier]

I would think you’d want to replace both sides at the same time. You’d need an alignment after replacing any UCAs or LCAs so might as well save the money and hassle there.

Another question for folks who have done this: Do you need to replace the cam bolts and other hardware? Or can I reuse the existing cam bolts and cams? Thanks

 

[2001LC]

Best to have at least 4 spacers on hand.

4

Spacer #2 bushing

90560-49001 spacer

I've found over the years, two: That new OEM LCA, didn't fit back in bushing relaxed. By adding space to #2 bushing, they did then fit relaxed. Adding spacer seem to correct, a pull in steering, alignment shops couldn't. I could see witness marks from frontal impact. It seems impact bent frame just a tad, which spacer corrected.

Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached

No...No, we're talking several minutes. You can NOT overheat it with a propane torch (damage the integrity of the steel). You CAN heat it so long that heat transfers from the mount to the outer shell of the bushing (basically canceling out any advantage you had) but you should have movement of...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW:

I had a really tough #2 bushing to press out. Makeshift press with hardware thread 3/4" rod tool and heat did no good. I, just busted the threaded rod. I could have just hacksawed out bushing. But instead had a tool made of harden steel. A tool I could use again and again. Working well, for years!

The same LCA, that I had made harden press tool for. Years later, I used my 20 ton press to remove #1 bushing from those LCA's. Heat had no effect nor did penetrating oils. Bent the press table. It was shocking how stuck. It was not what I call a rust rig. But was use in mud, without cleaning off mud.

I typically restore knuckle's while in there.

1. Check if bent.
2. Flatten surface shops where boot seals. From shops, using BFH to beat off ball joint, warp.
3. De-rust.
4. Paint.
5. Needle bearing brass bushing and seal

Good

Bent

BFH, used to beat off ball joint, is such a bad idea. Often warpage form BFH, result in water entry, due to bootl not sealing, where boot should have flat surface to seal on.

Pound flat best one can, then flat file.

Boot will now seal again, saving ball joint from contamination.

All knuckles have rust under brake dust shield. They're designed to last 25 years. We're now going beyond design life. De-rusting and setup to never rust again, is best practice.
I tap out wheel speed sensors, with soft wood (a 3/4" round pine). I never pry out.

Restore, De-rust, Prep & Painted

Next will be to wire brush threads (round bush on drill) and polish spindle (scotch pad) and back side.

New axle needle bearing, brass bushing and seal, greased and ready.

Hub restore is next....

Then proper wheel bearing assembly....

 

[2001LC]

Spacers: