Lower Ball Joints

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

any updates on replacement upper ball joints

Has anyone been able to press in an aftermarket balljoint yet?
Federal Mogul or ebay joint?

Thanks
 
I have not done it - never got around to doing it. Some of our AU/OZ colleagues have done it and said it can be done once, but twice may be pushing it due to the thin metal on the upper control arms.
 
Here are some photos of the Ebay upper joints side by side with the factory joints, and pressed into the UCAs


1050935707_3m2nD-M.jpg


1050935620_rQ6Z5-M.jpg


The old ones took some pressure to remove, I think it would be very difficult with a C-clamp style ball joint press. I removed the arm and pressed them out on a Hydraulic shop press. The build quality of the Ebay joints looks good. I measured the taper, body, and c-clip position with a caliper, it is spot on with the stock joint. I guess time will tell if they are quality, or cheap.
 
From the photo it looks like the replacement joint is higher/taller than the original, - that the UCA would be a bit higher up.
Is that correct?
 
From the photo it looks like the replacement joint is higher/taller than the original, - that the UCA would be a bit higher up.
Is that correct?
Looks like the longer part is on the other side of the ring, so, no effect on the arm position
Correct ?
 
The upper flange is thicker on the Ebay joint. The dimensions from the bottom side of the flange to the c-clip position, and the taper/length of the bolt are all identical to the factory joint. To make sense of that, the joints are sitting on the bench "upside down" in other words the opposite as they sit in the arm when it's bolted to the truck. They position the arm exactly as the stock joint does.

Hope that helps.
 
The build quality of the Ebay joints looks good. I measured the taper, body, and c-clip position with a caliper, it is spot on with the stock joint. I guess time will tell if they are quality, or cheap.

Any makers marks ? Country of origin? Or info from the shipping box ?
 
Any makers marks ? Country of origin? Or info from the shipping box ?

They are manufactured in Taiwan, which is also where they shipped from. I believe that someone pointed that out in one of the ball joint threads. I forgot about the Moog joints that someone else had pointed out over there too, so I ordered these.

If they hold up well I'll be happy at the price, if not I guess I'll have them out again and replace them with the Moog parts :hhmm:. I'm hoping they hold up.
 
Possibly stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

Lower ball joint on the drivers side has less than 1/16 of vertical movement.

Vehicle jacked up, wheel hanging and I put a crow bar under the tire and push tire up.

Vehicle has 147,000 of pavement miles on it. Boots are in good shape, not torn.

Passenger side has no movement.

Is this worth replacing at this point and time.

I'm just trying to get out of half a day or more of wrenching.

Thanks,

Adam
 
They are manufactured in Taiwan, which is also where they shipped from. I believe that someone pointed that out in one of the ball joint threads. I forgot about the Moog joints that someone else had pointed out over there too, so I ordered these.

If they hold up well I'll be happy at the price, if not I guess I'll have them out again and replace them with the Moog parts :hhmm:. I'm hoping they hold up.


Any updates on how the ebay upper ball joints are holding up?
 
Possibly stupid question, but I'll ask anyway.

Lower ball joint on the drivers side has less than 1/16 of vertical movement.

Vehicle jacked up, wheel hanging and I put a crow bar under the tire and push tire up.

Vehicle has 147,000 of pavement miles on it. Boots are in good shape, not torn.

Passenger side has no movement.

Is this worth replacing at this point and time.

I'm just trying to get out of half a day or more of wrenching.

Thanks,

Adam


Play in suspension and steering components is generally not good and an indicator of wear. If it were me I'd replace it as it will only get worse...
 
What does the FSM say for acceptable tolerance?
 
What does the FSM say for acceptable tolerance?

Oh sure...give me an assignment while you're sunning yourself in the wilds of Utah why don't cha! :D

"Check for looseness" is what it states. Therefore any play is not tolerable.
 
Haha, please bear with me. I forgot to pack my FSM in all the rush.
 
Any updates on how the ebay upper ball joints are holding up?

They are holding up great so far, I have roughly 8k miles on them. I had the truck on jackstands last weekend and tested them to check for any play. So far they look good. The boots are holding up well no rips tears or signs of wear.

Time will tell if they continue to work.
 
Just had O'Reilly's Moog lower ball joints pressed in...told by mechanic that he had to cut the bottom bolt off (after installation) to prevent rubbing on the wheel. On the positive, there is a zerk for greasing. $110 for 2 (parts). An option other than the Napa Chassis or Raybestos parts.

100 still making box spring noise going over speed bumps...need to check into upper control arms - quite expensive though I think? Anyone have prices from Beno?
 
I still have my two Spicer 505-1347 ball joints for sale. They do say Three-Five on them. BNIB. Just never got around to selling them, after I sold my LC100, or responding to texts but i need them off my desk. I paid $62.00 each originally and am asking $50.00 for the pair plus shipping from T6R 2L6 in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

The shipping weight is not more than 4 lbs.

Thanks

Greg
greg@pretzlaff.com
 
Yes. Still have them here on my desk.

Greg
 
Great deal...but those are lower right (I replaced lower this Fall)? The uppers I think are only avail. on E-Bay.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom