Louver Install w/ Pictures and Actual Cooling Data (1 Viewer)

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Oh, cool! (I know, dumb pun intended :rolleyes: )
Really good to know how you did that and how it worked out.
I've been toying with that kind of idea for a while, and will make use of your clues.

It does take a little bending and trimming to make it all fit without creating rattles. But it is well worth it.
 
Very interesting about the fenders not getting as hot.
Maybe the upward escape route for hot air means that the whole engine bay is not quite as "filled up" out to the edges with hot air, and ambient leakage flow at the edges isn't being quite as overwhelmed by the larger, hotter, radiator flow.
So, stuff out at the edges, battery compartment, etc., may stay somewhat cooler. Keeping the battery compartment even a few degrees cooler would help battery life, at least in the hot low desert like Arizona.
This may lower IATs for those without snorkels, specially at slower driving speeds. I've seen a strong speed influence on IATs. Anything below highway speed and IAT goes way up, I think because large volume of hot radiator air is dumping out the lower back edge of the USPS fender where air intake is coming from (I think?). It takes highway speed to really dilute that with fresh outside airflow.
Interesting indeed - your mentioned reasoning is what I would ASSUME, but without the data I will not confirm nor deny!

How about cabin fresh air intakes? Do you get heated air at the vents?
Honestly I hadn't tried the fresh air intakes until this morning after reading these responses last night. I usually just leave my AC on recirculate. It doesn't seem to affect the fresh air, but it's hard to tell for sure after just one drive, especially when it's only 75° outside.

I doubled up on the OEM heat shields to cut down on cabin heat. The studs holding the firewall (top) shield are long enough to hold a second one. By leaving the original nut in place, it created a thin dead zone between the two shields and still had enough sticking thru the second one to put on another nut. Easy peasy. The big cat shield is really thick, so can't use the first trick to mount it. I bought rod coupling nuts and used them to replace the original nuts on the original shield. Then I found really short bolts to run thru the second shield and into the open end of the rod coupling nut. It DID take some SLIGHT reshaping of both the firewall shield and the cat shield to fit in the available space. I bought what I have been told is the LAST OEM #3 exhaust heat shield in the world. A good used one will work fine. Or, a piece of 4' chimney pipe is pretty easy to shape into place for the 3rd position. My exhaust has been rerouted over the frame like a 93-94, so there is room for a shield over that section where it comes out along the transfer case. Much cooler floor according to my wife. It used to get soo hot when I was running WOT up the mountain passes that she had to pick her feet up off the floor. Not any more.
Interesting... I have actually been trying to chase down a rattle that I think is coming from my exhaust and currently have all of my heat shields removed except for the ones on the manifold. I really haven't noticed any heat difference since taking my heat shields off.

So, what was the temperature when you got to the end of the driveway and put it in park WITH the louvers?
On average about 184°
 
Interesting... I have actually been trying to chase down a rattle that I think is coming from my exhaust and currently have all of my heat shields removed except for the ones on the manifold. I really haven't noticed any heat difference since taking my heat shields off.

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Check your exhaust system cushions. There are three of them. I had the same issue and found that all three were ripped and worn through. To check them you will need to push up on exhaust at each mount, there is a bit of weight and they will bind a bit. If you get any movement, they are shot. Or use an inspection mirror. They are supposed to look like this:

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Check your exhaust system cushions. There are three of them. I had the same issue and found that all three were ripped and worn through. To check them you will need to push up on exhaust at each mount, there is a bit of weight and they will bind a bit. If you get any movement, they are shot. Or use an inspection mirror. They are supposed to look like this:

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I'll have to order some... I know one of them (directly after my test pipes) is bad. I didn't think they would have that much of an effect on the system though.
 
This weekend I installed the louvers I bought here:


After much research of the forum I found most of the people that have installed louvers say “they work great” but have no data to back it up. For the two weeks prior to installing the louvers, I made a spreadsheet that included ambient temperature, humidity, length of drive, high coolant temperature and average coolant temperature.

For those wondering how I’m monitoring this info - I have a temperature sending unit cut into my upper radiator hose and a GlowShift gauge mounted on my A-pillar.

Below are pictures of the finished louvers.

My first drive after the installation DOES seem to yield a lower coolant temperature, but I will verify after a couple of weeks when I have more consistent/sufficient data.

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Hey. Which ones are those? I went to the site but the universal louvers are longer than those.
Thanks,
Nathan
 
Hey. Which ones are those? I went to the site but the universal louvers are longer than those.
Thanks,
Nathan

They are the “small angular” universal louvers:

 

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