Losing coolant after fitting a new radiator cap

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Joined
Feb 19, 2014
Threads
31
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568
Location
Manila, Philippines
Hey guys, I have a '96 HDJ80, all stock 12 valve 1HDT with 280,000km. Three months ago I installed an aftermarket water temperature gauge using an adaptor on the upper radiator hose and "while I was in there" I replaced all the coolant hoses (upper and lower radiator hoses, ACSD hoses, heater core hoses, turbo water hoses, heater control valve) using genuine Toyota parts. So far so good, no overheating, no leaks. One morning I checked the coolant level and noticed that the lower radiator hose was collapsed/compressed. It would go back to normal once the radiator cap was removed. I inspected the radiator cap, and saw that it was badly rusted and that the plunger that allows the coolant from the reservoir to return to the radiator was stuck closed. I cleaned it and was able to get the plunger unstuck. I put the radiator cap back in and drove the car. The next morning I inspected the hose and it was no longer collapsed.

Since the radiator cap was severely rusted, I bought a new one from Toyota. It was identical to the one I had (0.9 bar). Soon after, I started to lose coolant from the reservoir. I did not suspect the new radiator cap since it was a new genuine part, so I kept looking for leaks. I even bypassed the heater core to rule it out. The reservoir would be empty in only a week. I would fill it to the max level when cold, go to work and the coolant level on the reservoir would not go up, sometimes even dropping a bit, and it would drain back to the radiator as it cooled. I even thought that it might be the head gasket, but I'm not seeing any of the symptoms. No white smoke from the exhaust. No bubbles from the radiator when I tried to re-bleed the system. No signs of coolant in the oil cap and dipstick. Engine doesn't overheat, coolant temp is around 82-85C in the city, 85-87C on the highway cruising at 100km/h (9-10 psi).

As a last resort, this morning I reinstalled the old radiator cap and topped off the coolant in the reservoir. When I got to work, the coolant level on the reservoir was now an inch or so above the max line. Same thing when I got home. Coolant is now flowing to the reservoir and not getting "lost" somewhere.

What could possibly be wrong with the new cap? If it wasn't holding pressure, then wouldn't the reservoir overflow with bubbling coolant? I never experienced that. I don't think the seals are bad on the new cap since it takes more effort to fit it into the neck than the old cap. There are also no signs of leaking on the neck. Any ideas?
 
it just needs some time, clean both surfaces and put it back on. Could be a weak spring but a lot of new caps seems to drip a bit - but not a huge leak.
 
Need pic of underside of both caps.

Here are the photos. You can see how crusty the old radiator cap is

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A little update. Today I pressure tested the cooling system to 11psi, looked around the engine bay and couldn't see anything then finally noticed the coolant dripping under the front driveshaft. Crawled underneath and saw the leak originating at the firewall from the heater hose that goes from the heater back to the block. I've always seen this dripping on the same spot in the ground after a drive, but I thought it was just condensation from the AC lines since they were just small drips. I had no idea it was coolant!

The leaking hose is new but I reused the old spring-type hose clamps and that may be the culprit. I remember them not being that tight when I replaced the hose. So it looks like the new radiator cap isn't defective at all, probably holding more pressure than the old cap causing the hose to leak more. I'll replace the clamps tomorrow and will keep my fingers crossed
 
Today I replaced the hose clamps and pressure tested the system. It was holding pressure with no visible leaks under the car. Whew. I bled the system, went for a road test and when I got back I noticed dripping on the same spot in the ground. Crawled underneath, saw that it was clear water coming from the firewall area and not pink coolant. So the car really does leak from the AC and that made it harder to spot the coolant leak. In the second photo you can see the clear water dripping from the firewall onto the radius arm and also the dried up pink coolant at the split tubing from the leak last night.

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Today I replaced the hose clamps and pressure tested the system. It was holding pressure with no visible leaks under the car. Whew. I bled the system, went for a road test and when I got back I noticed dripping on the same spot in the ground. Crawled underneath, saw that it was clear water coming from the firewall area and not pink coolant. So the car really does leak from the AC and that made it harder to spot the coolant leak. In the second photo you can see the clear water dripping from the firewall onto the radius arm and also the dried up pink coolant at the split tubing from the leak last night.

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Maybe try with AC off next time to be sure?
 
The collapsed hose would indicate a lot of air in the cooling system because air is compressible and coolant is not.

After installing the new cap, basically you had to refill the system and it took a bit to get there. Once it was full, the new cap held a higher pressure and forced the hoses to leak.

After seeing the old cap, I hope you flushed the cooling system well because the same crud (that's not rust) on your cap is also everywhere else in your cooling system.

Hope it is all well for you!
 
Another update. Coolant still leaked from the heater hose coming from the heater core going back to the block despite the hose and clamp being new. Turns out the nipple/heater core outlet was bent and not perfectly round, causing the hose not to seal properly and allowing coolant to leak out. I used a marker pen that was the same diameter as the inside of the nipple and carefully tapped away to straighten it out. So far so good, nipple is now round again and I haven't been losing coolant. However, there appears to be some crusty pink coolant coming out of the hose that goes into the heater valve. It doesn't leak whenever I do a pressure test. Again, the hose and heater valve are brand new, genuine parts. Have you guys experienced the same?

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The pink super long life coolant, SLLC, is thinner and seems to find any spot it can to weep out of. If it bothers you I would switch back to the red long life coolant and then change every 2 years or 30k miles.
 
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