Looking to buy a 470...rust doesn't look bad to a NE person like me but I don't have your experience (1 Viewer)

[irreducible]

I'd have to fly to pick this up so I'm trying to evaluate things beforehand. It's being listed by a dealership who bought it at auction. Naturally they lied and said it was an AZ car when in fact it spent its whole life in IL. $14k with 230k miles. It's got VVTi which is nice. Inside and body look very clean. As far as I can tell from the service history the car was babied at the dealership.

The gas tank shield is pretty rusted out.

Dealer sent me these videos when I asked for more photos. Basically I just want to know what type of rust is acceptable vs lethal. I heard that if the AHC lines rust out the system is insanely expensive to fix. Would really appreciate your perspective, thanks.

 

[excessive]

i cant get the videos to work, but from the 1 picture, it looks pretty rusty. i woudlnt buy that , especially at that price.

 

[irreducible]

i cant get the videos to work, but from the 1 picture, it looks pretty rusty. i woudlnt buy that , especially at that price.

Try these links. They should work. That’s a shame. Do you look at any particular component when evaluating rust? Trying to train my eye for this

 

[NE Snowman]

Depends on how long you’re keeping the Hundy. I think it’s priced too high with the rust. See if they will drop the spare and get a shot of the crossmember above there, assuming it’s awful looking up there if the gas tank skid is that bad. Honestly buying and shipping, stay away from rust all together, you won’t know till you start smacking it if it’s surface or rot.

Rust was number one of my concerns, 2nd was maintenance history. Paint and interior are fixable/livable to me. You can’t “fix” rust, you can slow it down and handle what pops up.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Ditto on all

Vids didn't work and run don't walk at that price.

 

[irreducible]

Ditto on all

Vids didn't work and run don't walk at that price.

The videos work only if you click the little pop out button in the top right corner, but I take your point. I will continue to look.

Do you guys have tips for specific undercarriage components I should look at to evaluate how rusty a hundy is? Or do you guys generally just look for an overall level of rust?

 

[Mike NXP]

Not too much rust if it was way less $$$ > It does look pretty crusty and like the previous owner didn't ever look under the vehicle....

You can find better, start looking in the west and areas that are rust free. Search the classified on here too...These trucks are very predictable and if you can find one with less rust or for way less $$ you'd be better off.

 

[NE Snowman]

Take your time and find the right one, you will have to determine what your willing to spend.

The crossmember above the spare is typically hard to see and has the worst rust.

Rust doesn’t have anything it won’t do, it will eat the frame, hard lines(AHC, Brake, cooling lines), body panels.

If your newer to 100s, I’d recommend hanging out here, looking at Slees buying guide. Don’t rush into one, there’s deals to be found but you should be a prepared buyer and know the main things to check out.

 

[e9999]

Does not look bad to me but only looked at it casually TBF. On a side note, I will say that a lot of people have misconceptions about rust IMO. Surface rust without significant pitting, say, is inconsequential in my mind. I mean if I wirebrush a mild steel surface and clean it oilfree, then leave it in a humid environment, it will likely show surface rust within hours. Does that make it suddenly worthless or unusable? I don't think so. Basically just color at that point. You just clean it up, neutralize it, paint it over and it's all good... Now, obviously, if there is so much rust that there is some severe pitting and/or some components are structurally affected, that's another story, but some realistic assessment of the rust's significance rather than automatic kneejerk reaction is a good idea IMO.

 

[jsloden]

For 14k I'd skip it. If it were 8-10 maybe. I live in the south though so I might be a bit spoiled.

 

[Trapper50cal]

It's been my experience that rust is worst above and behind the rear axle...look at rust on welds, shock mounts upper and lower, frame rails, inner surfaces of anywhere there is a hinge...lower/inner tailgate, inner bottom of hatch, wheel wells, around window seals...it's true that some color is no big deal. Your just looking for structural areas that could be compromised and body rust in "usual suspect" areas. I second checking out Slee's 100 series newbie buyers guide...

100 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road

Our Newbie Guide for the 80 Series Land Cruiser proven very popular, so we decided to compile one for the 100 series as well.

sleeoffroad.com

I live in the Southwest so I'm also a bit spoiled.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Avoid rust, and VVT.

 

[whitec13]

Honestly the frame is not bad at all. The gas skid plate tells me the gas tank itself is next with severe problems. In my experience, which is heavily fortified with crust, this example would need some fuel lines, tank, and skid very soon. Looking at the frame on the passenger side, I would double check the sway bar mounting area. It will literally break off with ease if the rust has formed badly there. This will lead to the frame rotting just below that area too (ask me how I know). The rest of the rust that we can see here, is easily manageable. Now, $14k on the other hand, not a chance. Especially considering the mileage. I would say maybe $7500 to start with, and that’s assuming the body isn’t rusting as well. I paid $4500 for mine in 2018, with similar to slightly more rust than that, 240k on the clock, and stacks of maintenance history from the original owner.

 

[Pucker5]

Run bro! Don’t do it. If the tank protector look like that there’s other parts that’s are gonna be a nightmare