Looking for recommendations (1 Viewer)

[pkelly72]

I don't want a dual battery setup but would like a portable battery option for a fridge and possibly some lights and the ability to top off my main battery.

I read @Cruiserdrew rubicon thread but I just get my head around all what's needed. I don't need anything overly complicated and I am looking to be cost efficient. Any ideas from those who know would be helpful.

 

[spressomon]

Budget? Current draw of fridge & lights? How do you intend to recharge the portable battery?

One scenario: Assuming the fridge is in your rig you could power it from the main/starting battery. Then use an Anti-Gravity XP-10 to power reasonable LED light load and use it for emergency jumping of main battery if you forget and/or don't have a low voltage cut off on the fridge.

I carry the XP-10 and use it to power LED lights in the tent/campground, laptop, phone charging, etc. And I've jump started my own and other's rigs including a D-Max diesel; they work as long as you know what your light current draw is x time you intend to power them from the XP-10.

The XP-10 (or similar) can be charged off your 12v plug in your rig when driving. You could also incorporate a solar/PV panel to augment the alternator for recharging the main/starting battery (and XP-10 if you need to), assuming you'll be stationary and the sun's shining.

 

[pkelly72]

Budget? Current draw of fridge & lights? How do you intend to recharge the portable battery?

One scenario: Assuming the fridge is in your rig you could power it from the main/starting battery. Then use an Anti-Gravity XP-10 to power reasonable LED light load and use it for emergency jumping of main battery if you forget and/or don't have a low voltage cut off on the fridge.

I carry the XP-10 and use it to power LED lights in the tent/campground, laptop, phone charging, etc. And I've jump started my own and other's rigs including a D-Max diesel; they work as long as you know what your light current draw is x time you intend to power them from the XP-10.

Dan

I honestly don't know. It's a newish 43qt edgestar and lights haven't even been acquired yet. For my needs, it would have to power the fridge for 2-5 days during the summer in California.

Budget - probably $300 or so but it's flexible.

 

[spressomon]

2-5 days stationary or will you be mobile?

 

[pkelly72]

2-5 days stationary or will you be mobile?

I would imagine a bit of both. Stationary maybe 2 days. Move for a day then stationary.

50/50

 

[spressomon]

That fridge, per Edgestar, consumes an average of 65watts; a little over 5amps/hour @ 12v; not sure if this is maximum draw or what. That power consumption is high compared to ARB, Waeco, etc. But let's go with it for example. Over 24-hour period you'll need 120amps @ 12v. If you're stationary you'll need to, assuming your powering the fridge off the main/starting battery, replace the 120amps. If you have a solar panel array that can put out 10amps...you'll need a minimum of 12 hours to put the 120amps backs (minimum because you'll lose some panel collect efficiency in the morning and later afternoon/evening, etc.). But you can see the challenge when you need to rely upon solar only for this current draw.

More than likely your power draw for the fridge is less than 5ah average; probably in the 2-3ah range I'd guess. So if the power consumed is lowered to 60amps then, again using 10a solar panel to battery input, you'd need 6-hours (best case) with a 10a panel and/or augment by running the host vehicle.

You can put together a nice solar set-up (~200w panels, PWM controller, wire) for about or less than $300 that would meet your needs IMO. The Antigravity XP-10 is ~ $150. Use it to power your 12v LED lights and serve as emergency jump back-up for the main/starting battery.

 

[e9999]

That fridge, per Edgestar, consumes an average of 65watts; a little over 5amps/hour @ 12v; not sure if this is maximum draw or what. That power consumption is high compared to ARB, Waeco, etc. But let's go with it for example. Over 24-hour period you'll need 120amps @ 12v. If you're stationary you'll need to, assuming your powering the fridge off the main/starting battery, replace the 120amps. If you have a solar panel array that can put out 10amps...you'll need a minimum of 12 hours to put the 120amps backs (minimum because you'll lose some panel collect efficiency in the morning and later afternoon/evening, etc.). But you can see the challenge when you need to rely upon solar only for this current draw.

More than likely your power draw for the fridge is less than 5ah average; probably in the 2-3ah range I'd guess. So if the power consumed is lowered to 60amps then, again using 10a solar panel to battery input, you'd need 6-hours (best case) with a 10a panel and/or augment by running the host vehicle.

You can put together a nice solar set-up (~200w panels, PWM controller, wire) for about or less than $300 that would meet your needs IMO. The Antigravity XP-10 is ~ $150. Use it to power your 12v LED lights and serve as emergency jump back-up for the main/starting battery.

Ouch, ouch! Spresso, my friend, you got to cut back on the high-octane capps! Units, good buddy, units...!

 

[spressomon]

yesterday was a big espresso day here

 

[Cruiserdrew]

When spresso says amps, he means amp/hours. Which as we have discussed is a great and intuitive way to talk about 12 volt power, without the detour and in/out conversion of watts. Everyone got that but you Eric. Maybe you did too and just wanted to be that guy.

Anyway, in hot environments the fridge runs about a 1/3 duty cycle. So if it draws 3 amps (of current) when running You'll average 1 amp per hour, so 24 amp hours over the course of a day. That's pretty easy for a solar panel.

For @pkelly72 it's easier than you think. A 100 watt folding panel and a charge controller and you're there. I'd recommend a dual battery, but you can likely get away without as long as you always go with others to remote places. Anyway, if you want help with cables or wiring, take the ride north to Sacramento and I'll help you.

Most of us probably have overkill solar. @TrickyT gets by with 60 watts and runs his ARB fridge just fine. I'm running 160 watts at this time and it's PLENTY for fridge, battery charging, camp lights (LED as primary, Coleman lantern as fun).

 

[pkelly72]

When spresso says amps, he means amp/hours. Which as we have discussed is a great and intuitive way to talk about 12 volt power, without the detour and in/out conversion of watts. Everyone got that but you Eric. Maybe you did too and just wanted to be that guy.

Anyway, in hot environments the fridge runs about a 1/3 duty cycle. So if it draws 3 amps (of current) when running You'll average 1 amp per hour, so 24 amp hours over the course of a day. That's pretty easy for a solar panel.

For @pkelly72 it's easier than you think. A 100 watt folding panel and a charge controller and you're there. I'd recommend a dual battery, but you can likely get away without as long as you always go with others to remote places. Anyway, if you want help with cables or wiring, take the ride north to Sacramento and I'll help you.

Most of us probably have overkill solar. @TrickyT gets by with 60 watts and runs his ARB fridge just fine. I'm running 160 watts at this time and it's PLENTY for fridge, battery charging, camp lights (LED as primary, Coleman lantern as fun).

About 20 minutes ago I bought a blue sea 7610 to start my dual battery setup. My 80 is a complete mess right now and had consumed my time. I just read the thread on the 80 forum about what dual batt setup to get. I'll likely add them but I have a supercharger which will crowd the engine bay. I did it before on my previous 80 without issues. Fingers crossed. I'll pm you direct as I get closer but I'm about to pull the trigger on a group 31 as well.

 

[pkelly72]

This is what I'm referring too when I mean mess. It should be reassembled sometime next week. Then transplant and lower marlin tcase gears. Maybe exhaust. Finish front, rear and sliders from Luke..it never ends.

 

[Bogo]

to start my dual battery setup.

I tucked my house batteries on a hinged rack I built in the normal underbody spare tire place. The rack is hinged at the front, and has pins to hold it at the back. Two Group 31 deepcycle batteries are mounted crosswise towards the front, with space for two or three jerry cans behind them. The batteries are in commodity battery boxes, and battery and box are held to the rack with bars and threaded rods. Because the batteries are outside the body I went with cheaper flooded cells with no spill caps. I used battery boxes because of the amount of road spray, dust, and dirt down there.

 

[pkelly72]

I tucked my house batteries on a hinged rack I built in the normal underbody spare tire place. The rack is hinged at the front, and has pins to hold it at the back. Two Group 31 deepcycle batteries are mounted crosswise towards the front, with space for two or three jerry cans behind them. The batteries are in commodity battery boxes, and battery and box are held to the rack with bars and threaded rods. Because the batteries are outside the body I went with cheaper flooded cells with no spill caps. I used battery boxes because of the amount of road spray, dust, and dirt down there.

Got a picture? I know the space well as I once installed an OEM aux tank there but can't envision how this may work.

 

[woytovich]

ArkPak 715 or 730