Not directly answering your question, but sort of.
I settled years ago (almost arbitrarily, but with some reasons) on a couple of rivnut sizes for all my general purpose needs, and have been satisfied with the results:
M6x1.0, Sherex p/n CAL2-610-4.2-25, McMaster #95105A183, for general purpose utility mounting. These are pretty easy to install by hand (with the special reverse nut tool and a couple of end wrenches - wratcheting GearWrenches work nicely).
M8x1.25, Sherex p/n CAL2-8125-3.8-10, McMaster #95105A191, for medium strong mounting. These are noticeably harder to install by hand, but doable (with the special reverse nut tool and a couple of end wrenches).
It's really tempting to go bigger(I was), like M10/12, for heavy duty frame stuff, but...when you look at the torque & twist out ratings and compare to proper torque for that size fastener, it seems - not quite up to the task. And they will take a lot of wrench force to install by hand, and be hard to keep in position while you're doing it. And then you get into expensive powered install tools.
I'm remembering some more stuff now, from my search years ago. I did find some manufacturer that made these larger rivnuts with higher ratings, seems like the application was auto manufacturing, suspension subframes & such. Sounded good, but literally was never able to find a distributer at all, it would have been an OEM level order, plus the tooling, proof testing, etc.,etc., so...that idea died.
For frame mount stuff, I'll make an alternative full strength suggestion - OK, it's a bit of a pain & not convenient, or even possible sometimes...
Make a nut-plate out of a long strip of flat stock steel, say 1/8" x 3/4" with a hole drilled and a high grade nut tack welded to it. Maybe a flange nut.
So, the strip is a long handle to poke the nut through some nearby hole in the frame and hold it in place inside the frame hole you want to bolt something to.
It will keep the nut from spinning, while you tighten to full M10/12 torque.