Ask and ye shall receive.
-2 part epoxy. I use MarinEpoxy from
www.boatbuildercentral.com A 1.5 gallon kit should be enough
-1708 Fiberglass cloth (3 layers exterior and 1-2 interior). This is available from ‘fiberglass supply’ out of Californians many other places. It is 17oz biaxial cloth and 8oz chopped strand stuck together. Biaxial is for strength, chopped strand is for exterior smoothness. Really, one could use multiple layers of any thickness biaxial cloth. The thicker stuff is tougher to work with. Lighter cloth is easier to wet out and manage. For the newbie, 8oz to 12oz cloth is much more friendly.
- zip ties
-1/2 cpvc pipe cut into 2in sections. This helps line up the glass layer on the exterior. Drill holes for the zip ties to hold the panels together and put a section of the cpvc in to line up the layers.
Like this (view from the underside)
-6 oz woven tape 6 inches wide 2 layers on the underside. Again, fiberglass supply or other sources
- 1/4 in plywood cut to size, marine grade is best but box store luan will work well. Mr Toyoda used foam. This goal is the create a composite structure of glass/core/glass. That core can be wood or foam, but it must be glassed on both sides
-wood flour or cabosil. Essential very fine sawdust. This is to make thickened epoxy. You can see the ‘tan’ colored fillet of epoxy above. It is epoxy that is thickened with wood flour to prevent running and sagging of the mix. Just add it to mixed epoxy incrementally in a solo cup andmix until it is the consistency of peanut butter. Place it in a gallon ziplock, cut the corner and pipe it out like a cake frosting. 1-2 lbs for the whole project would suffice.
-phenolic microbaloons.
This is the purple stuff you see for ‘fairing’ 1-2 lbs.
Beware these are not structural and should not be used to bond the core or as an epoxy glue. It would be like welding panels together with bondo. It is a filler material only for smoothness and not adhesive.
-primer and paint
hOOter
