This size.....
Phenolic Microballoons | Boatbuildercentral.com
I don’t know the exact microns. Boat builder central has been good to me over the years.
hOOter
Looking for info on sunroof hole repair
- Thread starter Fj moneypit
- Start date
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Phenolic Microballoons | Boatbuildercentral.com
I don’t know the exact microns. Boat builder central has been good to me over the years.
hOOter
- Thread starter
- #22
Haven’t done much yet but did get the top off. I knew there was a tear in metal which I thought was just at the lip but it was a little worse. I’ll try to tack weld because the rest of top and gutter is in good shape.
- Thread starter
- #23
Getting close. Took a little different approach but should work out. Just got to sand and at some filler.
Fix looks great. Only thing I can add since I'm a non-expert 
is fiberglass is subject to UV deterioration so it needs to be topcated. Gelcoat is nice but kind of difficult for big areas (for me), a good UV-protecting topcoat will work.
@hooter, serious boat skills! Your info should be sticky'ed.
is fiberglass is subject to UV deterioration so it needs to be topcated. Gelcoat is nice but kind of difficult for big areas (for me), a good UV-protecting topcoat will work.@hooter, serious boat skills! Your info should be sticky'ed.
This is great info. Question: my top and rain gutters are nearly perfect bc my FJ lived in a garage. Do I have to separate it from the windows or can I just remove the entire top from truck and work with it as a whole? My sunroof is like @Fj moneypit Moneyits
Mmmmm YUMMY!!
@hooter great job!
@Fj moneypit I commend you for your work too. I would like to see more pics of your work. You said you took a different approach?
What is done with these rivets that go across the front? They have been caulked on my truck but look as though they are a source for leaks. What’s the proper thing to do?
PS not the two rusty bolts. I know those need to go away.
PS not the two rusty bolts. I know those need to go away.
- Thread starter
- #28
You can take roof off by itself. I would epoxy or caulk over those rivets. The whole process to fix roof is time consuming. My roof was pretty rough so sanding to whole thing will be the hardest. Get good supplies and follow the instructions in this thread. I actually just cut about 1/2” of top coat of old fiberglass and foam around sunroof out that way I could sit new foam board or wood inside instead of using zip ties. Then glassed over it. Have good wiring space and ventilation. I’ll try to post what I did in time. Good luck
That’s a good idea about cutting back the foam to lay in the fill panel. A lap joint should also be stronger. Regarding the exposed rivets on top, what is “factory” so to speak? My truck is very original w only 43K miles so originallity is very important to me. I know caulking is not very reliable or long term. Would Epoxy used like a caulk work? I assume these rivets should remain exposed for originality. Plus if you covered them they would look like warts.
- Thread starter
- #30
Here’s a pic of the cut I made to sit new foam board on. The inner fiberglass made for a good seat for the board. Then I fiberglassed over the board.
Can you estimate: How thick is the foam core? How thick is the fiberglass top layer.
- Thread starter
- #32
Foam or plywood whichever you use is about 3/16-1/4. Fiberglass is thin. Really a layer.
I’d almost recommend channeling the inside and laying board. That way you can put weight like shown in this thread that way you won’t have any sag. I had to layer a little more fiberglass due to this. That area if not domed can become a place for water to sit
I’d almost recommend channeling the inside and laying board. That way you can put weight like shown in this thread that way you won’t have any sag. I had to layer a little more fiberglass due to this. That area if not domed can become a place for water to sit
I was wondering about the crown needed for the replacement panel. Plywood could make it more difficult to crown. I was thinking about taking the plywood and sawing kerfs across the wood to allow it to flex. Fortunately my opening is not too large.
Can someone give more input regarding these rivets? Someone above posted that the should be epoxied or fiberglassed over. What was factory? It looks to me that these rivets are supposed to be exposed from original. I want to do what was originally done yet be sure I don’t end up with a leak. Thx
Just getting into this project myself! Love this write up!
Can anyone tell me wether or not it needs gel coat after glass? Or, is paint and primer sufficient?
About to follow your lead!
Does this need a gel coat after glass? Or is primer and paint sufficient?
Can anyone tell me wether or not it needs gel coat after glass? Or, is paint and primer sufficient?
Thanks for the write up!
About to follow your lead!
Does this need a gel coat after glass? Or is primer and paint sufficient?
- Thread starter
- #38
Haven’t posted on this for quite some time. I painted the top and paint has held up great. No issues with the hole repair at all.
