Hi: Wondering if anyone can recommend a good FJ60 mechanic near Boulder CO. There used to be a couple great ones, but they seem to be gone. My ‘87 runs great but the idle has been suddenly dropping to zero while driving. It then runs extremely rough, stalls, feels like it’s not getting gas, etc. If I pull over and idle it high ((pull out choke), the problem clears up after a couple minutes and it runs fine again. Have new carb, have checked gas tank for rust, and got new fuel filter. Would appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!
Lookin for FJ60 mechanic near Boulder CO
- Thread starter Satchmo1
- Start date
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If you’re still running the EGR system, when the EGR valve sticks open after driving long periods on the highway, it drives fine when your foot is on the pedal, but when you let off, the EGR valve doesn’t shut as it should which creates a massive vacuum leak.
The idling engine can’t deal with that and either stalls or seriously sputters- intending to stall.
The stuck open EGR valve can suddenly close at any time during the mayhem- and suddenly the engine will idle perfectly again.
Unfortunately new EGR valves aren’t available anymore — so if yours is sticking occasionally, the best course of action is to remove it and clean it the best you can with Mr Muscle oven cleaner - and try again.
The idling engine can’t deal with that and either stalls or seriously sputters- intending to stall.
The stuck open EGR valve can suddenly close at any time during the mayhem- and suddenly the engine will idle perfectly again.
Unfortunately new EGR valves aren’t available anymore — so if yours is sticking occasionally, the best course of action is to remove it and clean it the best you can with Mr Muscle oven cleaner - and try again.
@Satchmo1 there’s a new shop specializing in cruisers that just opened in I think Erie or Louisville - Cruisers & Company. I don’t know anything about them but maybe it’s worth a call. Japanese Auto Service and Mountain Yotas are both in Wheat Ridge/Arvada - that’s the Denver area but closer to Boulder, a short jaunt down Hwy 93.
@OSS Your diagnosis sounds spot on. Also the stuff you recommended doesn’t damage the diaphragm? I’ve had luck getting the screws out of the EGR Modulator vac line tube and mechanically cleaning carbon out with a pick, but I’ve been wary about shooting chemicals in an EGR valve because of the diaphragm.
@OSS Your diagnosis sounds spot on. Also the stuff you recommended doesn’t damage the diaphragm? I’ve had luck getting the screws out of the EGR Modulator vac line tube and mechanically cleaning carbon out with a pick, but I’ve been wary about shooting chemicals in an EGR valve because of the diaphragm.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks all! Great info! Will check egr as well as Cruisers and Company!
Oven cleaner chemicals will ABSOLUTELY damage the rubber diaphragm. You don’t spray it on the diaphragm- the EGR valve is removed from the manifold, then you apply some MR Muscle oven cleaner only to the piston rod and piston. Using a small screwdriver or whatever to scrape the carbon off after it has soaked for a good while.
- Thread starter
- #10
Wondering if there are any other diagnoses out there for the very rough idling/stalling issue that then corrects itself (see above). Disconnected egr and it’s still happening so doesnt seem like egr issue.
Have you started with all the basic tune up stuff?
-New dizzy cap & rotor
-New spark plugs
-New spark plug wires
-Check the idle vacuum reading (for our altitude 14-17 is about average)
In your first post you did a couple things - checked the gas tank for corrosion, changed the fuel filter. I'm curious about some clarification on some of the other things you mentioned.
-What is your "new carb"? One that's actually new like the one City Racer sells? Aftermarket like a Weber? Or an original Aisin that's been recently rebuilt?
-Have you gone through this Emissions Manual and checked anything? Particularly the Air Injection system. When you "disconnected the EGR" how did you do that?
-When you say the "idle drops to zero" you mean the rpms go to zero and the engine stalls? Then when you fire it back up it's running rough?
If you're coming to the ColoYota Expo on May 11 I'll be there and can probably give it a 15 minute once-over for you. It's in Golden, so probably a 35 minute drive from Boulder.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for all the info/ideas. Really appreciate it. Will try to get answers to your questions (a mechanic who doesnt really work on fj60s did the work so I dont know the details). I believe he installed an aftermarket carb but will check. My layman’s understanding is that he disconnected and plugged the hoses leading to the egr (but will check that too). To clarify the problem, the car runs great for a couple days and then suddenly while driving 25 mph in town the rpms suddenly drop substantially and the car sputters/stalls, etc. It’s very difficult to drive/keep it running - feels like it’s not getting gas. If I pull choke all the way out and am heavy on gas pedal, I can sometimes make it home. Or I pull to the side of road and pull choke out and push gas pedal to floor to keep it running. It’ll run very rough for several minutes or blocks and then seems to be fine again. The problem then returns in a couple days. Ive avoided the highway for the last several weeks. Will try to make it to the expo! Thanks again for any light you can shed.
Intermittent stuff is hard to pin down. EGR is definitely still suspect since we don't know how it was tested. Could be little crud in the float bowl. Could be a cracked block. Could be a bad coil or an intermittent electrical connection related to spark. Intermittent vacuum leak. Not to be overly alarming, but there are a lot of possibilities.
I would start ripping through that Emissions FSM and testing everything you can very methodically. None of it is terribly difficult!
I would start ripping through that Emissions FSM and testing everything you can very methodically. None of it is terribly difficult!
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks. Yes, the intermittent aspect makes it difficult.
Look for patterns:
High speed vs low speed
high rpms vs low rpms
Watch the temp
After cold start vs after hot starts
Weather
Full tank of gas vs empty
Etc etc
These things all relate to various engine systems. Also test your fuel cut solenoid. What does the exhaust smell like when it dies?
