- Thread starter
- #61
Man that thing is sweet, but my kids would freeze thier asses off on rides this winter....
Lookin for an FJ40
- Thread starter SSCR
- Start date
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Well, did you get one yet?
- Thread starter
- #63
Not yet, but gettin close. Only a matter of time.....
Did you see this one?
1973 Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser 4x4
or this one?
Huge Offer '69 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1973 Toyota FJ40 Landcruiser 4x4
or this one?
Huge Offer '69 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
Wow!...the first one is a $14,000.00 "classic muscle car" & the wipers don't even work...
The second one looks ok though
The second one looks ok though
Yeah, That first one looks like it has lots of issues. I think it will sell for far less than the asking price, if it sells. It kind of looks like a 'quick paint and sell' deal. Someone definitely messed with the rear bumper/crossmember and the seller didn't even bother to straighten it. The real question is how much rust is hiding under the new paint and diamond plate.
The problem with the second one is he implies that he has made significant changes, but then gives you no details. It could be all good/sane upgrades, or it could have a Studabaker V8, a powerglide and an NP205 with rack and pinion steering and the IFS out of a Nissan hardbody pickup.
The problem with the second one is he implies that he has made significant changes, but then gives you no details. It could be all good/sane upgrades, or it could have a Studabaker V8, a powerglide and an NP205 with rack and pinion steering and the IFS out of a Nissan hardbody pickup.
SSCR, I know you were considering that RHD BJ the other MUD member was looking to import, but have you seen this one?
1974 FJ-40 in Virginia, asking $11.5k
Looks pretty nice and close to original (power steering, disc brakes) and it's very close to your stated price range. And the owner has listed it a couple of times, so they might be motivated to negotiate. The big negative is that it's in southeast Virginia.
1974 FJ-40 in Virginia, asking $11.5k
Looks pretty nice and close to original (power steering, disc brakes) and it's very close to your stated price range. And the owner has listed it a couple of times, so they might be motivated to negotiate. The big negative is that it's in southeast Virginia.
- Thread starter
- #68
Yeah, I saw that one and is on my final 3 list. Just wish it was a 2F and a 4 speed, man I'm a whinny bitch.
- Thread starter
- #69
Bought a 79 FJ40, rustic green. Thanks for your guy's help. Now I need a set of disc steelies and hub caps, let me know if anyone wants to sell a set.
pm sent
I sold my 40 back in October to a fellow Mudder. He did a great job getting it up to snuff.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ms-cottonland-cruisers/532986-souths-fj40-rebuild-8.html#post7532338
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ms-cottonland-cruisers/532986-souths-fj40-rebuild-8.html#post7532338
Bought a 79 FJ40, rustic green. Thanks for your guy's help. Now I need a set of disc steelies and hub caps, let me know if anyone wants to sell a set.
Photos - we need photos.
Congrats
- Thread starter
- #73
Here she is, a little dusty... I need to sell the aluminum alloy rims, the bumpers and the Corbeau bucket seats to bring it back to a nice orginal cruiser.
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- Thread starter
- #74
The PO did a IMO crummy job of replacing the floorpans. He cut out the rusted areas of the orginal pans, treated the metal and than welded new pans over the existing ones. I will snap some pics, maybe you guys can figure a way to try and save this. Maybe I'm being too anal retentive and shouldn't worry about what the bottom of a truck looks like.
It might be an issue if moisture is going to be trapped between the remnants of the old floor and the new floor. Where are the welds? At the edge of the new floor? At the edges of the remnants of the old floor? Both? If both, that space might be sealed up enough to avoid issues with moisture. If at the edge of the new floor, I might be temped to cut the remnants of the old floor back close to the new welds. Then seal the crap out of what is left of the cavity to keep the moisture out. Might be good to treat with some sort of anti-rust treatment before sealing.
- Thread starter
- #76
Thats what I was thinking, carefully cutting back as much of the orginal floor as possible with out cutting into the new floor. Here are a couple of photos of what I am talking about.
Yeah that needs some more work. At least he used actual floor pans and not just some sheet. And there doesnt appear to be any corrosion yet!!! You can seal it (weld, epoxy, whatever....) or cut it back and seal it....
- Thread starter
- #78
I wonder if just using a hand saw and doing slow at it if I could cut the old pan out with out damaging it? I have a hand saw that holds a metal blade I use to cut conduit.
A hand saw will take a long time. I would think more like a small circular saw with a metal cutting disc type blade and some sort of depth control to keep out of the new metal.
4" angle grinder and newb skills. Cost ya $30 for the grinder and a couple cut off wheels. Every man should have an angle grinder!
